Sunkissed Seville

Monday 3 March - Estepona to Seville
Hola de Sevilla - the warm and bright capital of Andalucia.  We took the bus from a chilly and seriously windy Estepona and climbed the mountain road to Ronda and down again to Seville.  The scenery was magnificent on both sides of the mountains - Seville has some amazing green countryside. 

Like all cities Seville is buzzy and cosmopolitan and, of course, very stylish in that Andalucian way.  Narrow streets, amazing architecture, orange trees, plazas galore and beautiful shops.  Legend says it was founded 3000 years ago by Hercules.  Flamenco is said to have been partially born in the Triana district on the other side of the Rio Guadalquivir.  We love the river - it adds a sense of space in a densely populated city and its cool Atlantic breeze must be a bonus in the summer when temperatures regularly reach 45 degrees.  You may recall we were recently at the river's estuary where it meets the Atlantic in Sanlucar de Barrameda.

We visited Seville a few years ago for New Year celebrations and where we 'did the 12 grapes' for the first time.  We ate in an Argentinian riverside restaurant which also provided live Argentinian tango while we ate, winding their way gently around the tables - unforgettable.  Its nice to revisit some familiar places but also to discover new pockets of Seville.  This time we chose to stay  in the Barrio Santa Cruz - the former Jewish quarter where we found a lovely apartment c/o the brilliant Airbandb website.

Tuesday 4 March - Seville
The Cathedral was closed on our last visit so this was top of our 'to do' list.  Although we've visited a few cathedrals on this trip (not forgetting some fabulous French cathedrals), Seville's Cathedral lays claim to having the largest surface area in the world so we had to take a look.  Like many others it is built on the site of a former mosque and minaret (constructed in 1184).  The Moors were overthrown in 1248 and the mosque was used as a church until the cathedral was consecrated in 1402.  By this time, the structure was decaying and so an elaborate plan was hatched to knock it down and replace it with the present colossal structure - measuring 126m long and 83m wide.  It is so vast that it is difficult to photograph.  The piccie below captures most of it albeit from a distance.  Giralda - the 11thC minaret - is reached by climbing a series of brick ramps - is now topped with a Gothic belfry which reaches a heady 104m.  Atop the belfry is Giraldillo - a 16thC bronze weather vane - and is one of Seville's beloved symbols of faith.  It is also home to Christopher Columbus's tomb, although there is some doubt as to exactly where his remains are as he's been moved several times! 

Cathedral from Torre del Oro (Gold Tower)

Columbus's tomb

Metropol Parasol.  Yes, modern conceptual architecture has arrived in Seville - its de rigeur you know!  The Metropol Parasol (known to sevillanos as Las Setas - because the supporting structures are mushroom-like) was built on a former car park and claims to be the world's largest wooden building.  For archaeology fans Roman ruins were uncovered during construction.  We tried to get onto the skywalk for some great city vistas but it was closed.  We're not sure what we think of it - a giant waffle or a mushroom ring?  One thing's for sure though - it would offer some much needed shade in the summer.

The Metropol Parasol under the vivid Andalucian sky

 Wednesday 5 March - Córdoba (see separate post)



Thursday 6 March
Triana is a world on its own - rivers often create a big divide.  Traditionally it was the poor Roma area and a font of flamenco but, today, it is valued for its cultural delights and its culinary speciality - fried fish!  It is also home to the municipal market and some nice shops and cafes.

Triana district from Puente de Triana

Torre del Oro.  The 13thC Gold Tower is so-named as it once had golden roof tiles.  More recently it was used to store conquistadors' gold booty from the Americas.  Today it is home to a small naval museum which was too tempting for Skipper to miss!  It also offers great vistas from the viewing platform.

Torre del Oro

Plazas.  Spain loves a plaza!  There are so many here its hard to choose one but here's one of the most popular and colourful:

Iglesia del Salvador in a plaza of the same name

Food
We had a list of fab places in which to sample tapas and various gastronomic delights (e.g. Vineria San Telmo, Eslava, La Brunilda) but, alas, as much as we love Spanish food, we were in need of more simple fayre - i.e. less rich, not served on bread or with tomatoes - very difficult in Andalucia!  Also, meals and tapas are rarely served with any, let alone a decent portion of fresh veg, so whilst here we topped up on delicious salads for which we felt better.  We did, though, manage to squeeze in some tapas at the brilliant Bar Alfalfa, just around the corner from us.

Bar Alfalfa

And we couldn't resist the beautiful cakes on offer at La Campana:

The ever-busy La Campana

And here's one La Campana's windows dressed with Semana Santa (Holy Week, Easter) in mind - there are several street vendors selling herbs and spices, to include incense and burners - a lovely aroma:

An image of Easter in Spain: the hooded pentinents

And another image for Semana Santa(?)

Answers on a postcard, please!

Flamenco
We were spoiled in Jerez and Cádiz so didn't feel the need to see more but Seville has a thriving flamenco scene -  here's a taster of Seville's many flamenco shops ...

Cerise flamenco "trajes" - to die for!

And so that wraps up our short break in Seville.  We're glad we came back and will return again - it really is a cracking city that always seems to be bathed in sun - even on our previous trip for New Year (although it was cold at night!)  Today we've been basking in 25 degrees - the kind of warmth that makes your bones smile.  We'll miss that when we're back in the UK!   Next stop is Cáceres - capital city of northern Extremadura - the westernmost region of Spain so, until the next post, over & out!