¡Hasta la vista España!

20 March - Biarritz
Hello from Biarritz, a lovely coastal town on the French Biscay coast and from where I write my last Spanish blog.  I'll do a separate post about Biarritz and our journey home through France.  For now, though, I'm trying to imagine what I'll do with the time I have spent blogging - a part of daily life over the last year but, moreover, how I'll function without my customary cafe con leche, pan con tomate, pintxos, Ribera, Verdejo, Spanish people and somehow get back into life in the UK - it just seems unthinkable (and unbearable!) 

To help ease the pain I'm reminiscing about the past 6 months in Spain.  You may recall when we left France that we put together a Top 10 of our experiences there so we thought we'd do something similar for Spain.  So here goes, the with the most forgettable at No. 10 (and most unforgettable at No. 1):

10.  Spanish Radio.  We've travelled on a lot of buses and there's often a radio playing so we're a bit of an authority on this.  Sorry guys - your pop music leaves much to be desired, especially the songs that are a fusion of Spanish and Moroccan sounds - Room 101 for you!

9.  Santiago de Compostela - town.   Before we go any further - we don't mean the Cathedral which is really something special - there is a rare, benevolent force at work there.  We also respect that Santiago is hallowed ground for pilgrims and we don't take any of that away from them.  But, other than that, we don't think it has that much to offer apart from some interesting architecture.  The weather is the main bugbear here - it is so damp, cold and dingy for much of the year and it rarely dries.  Damp and mold is a problem here so if you have an allergy to mold (which I do) then you should be aware of that.  We didn't rate the food either - sorry food critics - we don't agree with you.  There are an inordinate amount of beggars - some that use violence - seriously!  So, if you're thinking of a long weekend we'd say don't bother.  Santiago is for pilgrims and other people of faith for which it is unforgettable.

And I know you think I'm biased but they were the only downsides for us during our time in Spain.  And on a brighter note:

8.  The Belen.  It was refreshing to experience a Spanish Christmas and New Year.  Obviously we are in a Catholic country and so the focus is very different.  The Belen is a nativity scene that is on public display and is a much loved part of Spanish Christmas.  Belens are built on show at town halls, churches and some shopping malls.  In some towns and cathedrals there are permanent Belens on display.  There is an Assocation of Belenistas!  Christmas Day (25th) is about the birth of Christ - it is a fairly quiet affair spent with extended family.  No presents are exchanged - that comes on the 12th day of Christmas (6th January), or the Night of Kings who traditionally came bearing gifts to the baby Jesus.  There is a real sense of anticipation which is touching.  Interestingly, there isn't a glitzy house decoration in sight - just the tree, inside. The streets are decorated tastefully by councils so, apart from that, the only house decoration you see is a poster hanging from many balconies of the baby Jesus.  It helps you redefine what Christmas is actually about.

7.  The formidable force that is Las Mayores.  Diminutive in size but huge in their collective impact, Spanish senior citizens are a force of nature and we love them.  They seem to be privy to information that us mere mortals just aren't in on.  We'll never forget seeing them in action at Santiago de Compostela station. We were waiting patiently at the lift for the platform indicator to flag up our departure to Madrid, aware that a couple of others were there before us.  Suddenly a group of 12 or so senior folk were in front of us, fending us off with their maletas (suitcases), filling the lift and they were off.  It was a masterclass in assertiveness - hire them for a corporate workshop and you'd learn a thing or two!

6.5  Las manifestaciónes.  Yes, the Spanish love a strike, rally or march which are an outlet for Spanish disgruntlement.  Rarely a week (at most a fortnight) passes without a manifestación.  Usually fairly ordered gatherings (but not always) they are accompanied by drums, whistles and sometimes a band.  Most are focused on government austerity measures to repair the Spanish economy - known as la crisis - of which you hear talk daily, everywhere and at every level. 

6.  The Paseo.  That most Spanish of pastimes is the Sunday (or bank holiday) paseo.  Dressed smartly, the extended family go out for a walk, usually along a beach, river, park or other central thoroughfare.  The elders are usually arm in arm, then men often in a smart hat or cap.  The abuelos (grandparents) aren't on the periphery though - they play an active part in keeping the younger family in check.  The children are always traditionally dressed - girls in pretty dresses, tights, shoes, quite often with a bow or headband; boys in winter with woolly tights(!), shorts, jumper and smart shoes.  Rarely do you see jeans, trainers, fleeces or anoraks.  Really nice to see.

5.   Fabulous landscape & endless blue skies.  Spain is a vast country with an amazing geography.  We'll never forget lush northern Spain; the mountain ranges; the vast, rolling hills and plains of Castilla-Mancha and Extremadura; the seas, rivers and oceans; the vineyards; the orange groves; Buen Retiro park; and all under the endless Spanish blue sky.  Is it that we're that much closer to the equator and the effect of the full spectrum of light?  Whatever it is that creates those huge, beautiful, azure skies which give us light-starved Brits that rare feel good factor, we'll miss it - big time!

4.  Cathedrals & architecture.  Spain is awash with stunning architecture, so much so that you almost take it for granted.  Every town and city has church(es), cathedral(s) and at least one other stunning landmark. We'll never forget Segovia's aqueduct; the Cathedrals at Santiago, Salamanca, Malaga and Zaragoza; the Plazas Mayor at Salamanca, Caceres and Pamplona; the Mezquita at Cordoba; the Alcazar at Malaga (which we think is better than the hallowed - and packed! - Alhambra); the bull rings; Roman bridges at Zaragoza, Cordoba and Puente la Reina; the castles at Segovia and Olite; the narrow streets of San Sebastian, Pamplona and Cadiz - the list is endless. 

3.  Fiestas/Ferias.  Sadly we didn't get to see too many of these because we arrived in Spain a bit later than planned but those we did see, we'll never forget: the Rioja Wine Festival - where we met our American friends Cathy & Janet; the children's bull run in Pamplona; and I'm about to experience my first Semana Santa (Holy Week, or Easter) in Malaga - with Cathy - OMG!!! - is Malaga ready for us?!  I've decided that I want to visit as many Spanish festivals as I can while it still has them - health & safety may have something to say about rocket men, towers of fire, etc!

2.  Spanish food, beer & wine.  Pintxos, tapas, Estrella Galicia, el aperitivo,  great wines and sherry.   Spain should be proud of its food and wine.  From the humble olive to the finest cuisine, Spain does it very well.   And always based on simple, quality, natural ingredients.  Many food critics think that one of the best places to eat in the world is San Sebastian; we think Pamplona is biting at its heels.  And don't underestimate Galicia and its growing place on the gastronomic map.  We'll never forget Caceres and its Jamón Ibérico Bellota; Cordoba's roasted lamb; Cuenca's venison; San Sebastian's pintxos; La Mancha's sopa de ajo (garlic soup); Valencia's oranges; Andalucia's pan con tomate; the national dessert that is flan (creme caramel); the fabulous coffee; Ribera del Duero; Albarinho; Ribeiro; Manzanilla; Pedro Ximenez; Verdejo; Rioja; Bellota liqueur - the list is equally endless.

and no surprise as to what's straight in at No. 1 and totally unforgettable:

1.  The Spanish.  We are touched by how open and warm the Spanish are.  It should come as no surprise to me - I've known it all along - but it never ceases to amaze me just how kind, helpful and welcoming the Spanish are.  More so in the south but not exclusively.  We met some lovely people in Asturias and Bilbao too.  Perhaps its the role of the extended family and, dare I say, religion?  There is trust and sincerity - an open-heartedness - and its unforgettable.   Whatever it is, it creates a considerate and respectful society - wake up Britain!

We are lucky, too, to have met some great people on our travels.  From those through whom we've rented apartments (Isabel in Pamplona; Juan & Yolanda in Valencia; Inma in Malaga; Martin & David in Estepona; Fran in Jerez; Eva in Cadiz).  Then there's the friends we've made along the way (Cathy & Janet in Logroño; Maribel & Colmar, Manolo, Vonnie & Alec in Estepona; Rafa, Paco & Marie Carmen in Cáceres). 

So, that's it folks - tragically - my last post from Spain!  We hope you've enjoyed our adventures with us and enjoy our journey home through France.  I can tell you as I write that its been eventful already!  So catch up soon for more looney tunes from Pintxo & Tapa!