Córdoba

Wednesday 5 March
Whilst in Seville we thought we'd take the opportunity to visit Córdoba as we missed the chance in Madrid (you may recall we were going to stay there for a while to explore the capital and surrounding areas but we cut that short for the allure of sunny Valencia).  In fact, its worked out better as it is easier and cheaper to visit Córdoba from Seville so without further ado ....

We were up early for the 9am bus (a shock to our system as we've been snoozing until 8.30/9am ever since we arrived in Malaga!) for a 2-hour bus journey.  Once again we were amazed by the rolling green fields en route - we both have this stereotype image of a parched Andalucia but, then, I guess we're still just about in Spain's winter months.


The main drawcards for us here are the Puente Romano (Roman bridge), the Islamic Water Wheel and the Mezquita.

The 12thC Islamic Water Wheel and Puente Romano

Mezquita & Cathedral
Founded in 785 this huge mosque is almost unique.  There aren't too many places in the world where you can attend Mass inside a Mosque.  The obvious remnants of the Mosque are the main entrance, Puerta del Perdón (Door of Pardon) and the Plaza de los Naranjos (Orange Square).  What meets your eye upon entering the Mezquita is a forest of pillars and arches - part of the original 8thC mosque.  In the centre is the Christian Cathedral along with some beautiful processional treasures.  It really is the most beautiful place of worship we've visited on many levels as we hope you'll see from this post.

The outside of the Mezquita (arches) and Cathedral (domes)

Once you pass into the Mezquita through the Puerta del Perdón directly opposite - across the Plaza de los Naranjos - you can see the Cathedral domes.  Here's a piccie of the Cathedral with the Islamic arch on the right-hand side which is the main entrance to the Cathedral and former Mosque.

The Cathedral from Plaza de Naranjos

Here's the bell tower (93m) which was built over the original minaret.

Torre del Alminar

And now down to business.  The interior of the Mezquita is a masterclass in superlatives.  I really can't say more than that so I'll let the pictures do the talking!

Vast! these beautiful and unique white and terracotta arches are supported by 856 pillars which were salvaged from Visigoth and Roman ruins.

Monumental! where Christianity meets Islam.

The symbolic Capilla de Villaviciosa

Dazzling! the Mosque's centrepiece - the mihrab (prayer area) facing Mecca, complete with 1600kg of gold mosaic cubes(!) crafted by Byzantiuum sculptors.

The beautiful mihrab

The mihrab's ceiling

Main altar with terracotta/white arches to the right of photo

Corpus Christi processional piece

After the spiritual sustenance of the Mezquita it was time for physical nourishment and we lunched in the quaint Taberna Luque, owned and run by the proud and professional Antonio and Maria.  This tiny establishment is a celebration of Córdoba's gastronomy.  The menu, like the restaurant, is compact but takes pride in serving well-sourced, quality and perfectly cooked dishes.  We were also treated to complementary tapas: plump olives, Cañas de Lomo Ibérica Bellota with grade A olive oil (divine!); almonds and a glass of Pedro Ximenez - top grade dessert sherry - sublime!  (like drinking dates with hints of coffee - the perfect complement to dessert). 

The big-hearted Taberna Luque

After lunch we wandered around the juderia - Córdoba's old Jewish quarter down to the famous Plaza del Potro (Colt Square).

Plaza del Potro

We also visited the Alcázar - where Columbus first met with the famous Catholic Royals, Isabel and Ferdinand.  Here's a photo of yet another stunning fortification built on Arabic and Roman remains. 

The Alcázar

And that about wraps up our day in Córdoba.  We hear that it is among entrants for 2016 European Capital of Culture - the Mezquita alone should help it win outright!  Add to this flamenco, gastronomy and a strong, if not controversial history of bull fighting, we think it deserves the accolade - ¡venga Córdoba!