Tuesday, 18 March 2014

Magical Segovia

Friday 14 March
No sooner had we unpacked in Madrid than we were back on a bus to Segovia - an hour's drive but a world apart from the metropolis that is the capital city. 

Segovia is yet another UNESCO world heritage site in Spain - Wikipedia states there being 38 in the Iberian peninsula - we've visited 9 on this trip - it would've been 12 but for site closures and changed travel plans).  Alas - another time!

A few factoids ...
Legend has it that Segovia was founded by Hercules or the son of Noah.  Its two main claims to fame are the towering Roman aqueduct set within a modern city and its Disney-like Alcázar - on which Walt Disney styled his Sleeping Beauty castle.  And all of this set within the rolling hills of the Castilla region and its Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range = stunning!  A bit of royal history is that Isabel (who with Ferdinand are commonly referred to as the Catholic Kings) was proclaimed Queen here in 1474. 

Back to the 21stC and a short walk from the city centre the Cathedral becomes clear.  Don't worry - I'm not going to take you on a tour of yet another Cathedral(!) - but it does cut quite a figure.

The stunning Cathedral, Segovia
 A short walk from here and the ancient city walls appear which date back to Roman times. 

Fortified walls with snowcapped Sierra Guadarrama in distance

And then the Alcázar comes into full focus - and what a beauty!  It was built and extended in the 13th and 14th centuries and was razed to the ground by fire in 1862.  This newer Alcázar is considered to be an over-reconstruction when compared to the original.  We didn't go inside - as tempting as the write up was - as we had bought our return tickets and always prefer to be outside wherever possible!


Segovia's Alcázar - certainly no sleeping beauty!
A short walk down the hill from here is the delightful - and interesting - Iglesia de Vera Cruz (the Church of the True Cross), so named as it once housed a piece of the Crucifix (now in a nearby town and only viewed during Semana Santa (Holy Week, Easter).  Built by the Knights Templar in the 13thC it is considered to be one of the best preserved 12-sided churches in Europe.  Inside is a 2-storey chamber where the knights took their rites in secrecy and where they guarded the sacred relic.  

A wannabe Knights Templar!
We then went for a walk along the River Eresma which runs alongside the tranquil Monasterio del Parral whose monks chant a Gregorian mass at noon on Sundays - sadly we missed that beautiful sound.  

The calming waters leaving the monastery
And after all that walking - you know what's coming! - it was time for lunch at Casa Duque - top choice in the Lonely Planet.  Segovianos love their pig products - especially roasted pork.  Mick opted for butter beans with diced pork and chorizo while I chose a selection of tapas - white prawns in garlic sauce; a tasty mixed salad in a glass; and crab croquettes - all delicious!

A short waddle from here was the awesome aqueduct - an 894m engineering masterpiece first constructed in 1AD.  No mortar was used at all to hold the 20,000 granite blocks together.  And not just one level - but two!  Boasting 163 arches it reaches 28m at its highest point.  It was part of a network of underground canal and aqueduct that channelled water from the mountains more than 15km away.  It is breathtaking in its design, beauty and scale.

Perfect engineering!
And we didn't realise until we saw this photo at the shadow the aqueduct throws across the road - like a huge pedestrian crossing - tricky to negotiate at certain times of the day!

Aqueduct & Sierra Guadarrama in distance
And that wraps up our time here in Segovia.  We really loved it here and would recommend a visit if you're in Madrid - it is no distance at all and really is an uplifting sight.  So, over & out until our next post from another UNESCO site, Cuenca.

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