Charming Cáceres

Friday 7 to Monday 10 March
Hola de Cáceres, provincial capital of central Extremadura, the westernmost region of Spain, located midway between Portugal and Madrid.  It is aptly named and translates as "extremely hard/tough."  The weather is characteristic - either very hot or very cold with rain in the winter months.  We arrived in early spring to endless blue skies, warm sunlight and a cool breeze, which was especially chilly early morning and late evening.

Our bus route from Seville took us through other extremeño towns of Zafra (a pretty white village) and Merida (famed for multiple Roman ruins) but we decided that, with limited time left in Spain (ho, hum), Cáceres was for us.  The landscape opened up to vast rolling hills, endless olive and acorn (bellota) groves, the occasional hunting bird, a handful of the very shy but famous pigs - pata negra (black leg) from which a regional speciality (and national obsession) - Jamón Ibérico Bellota - is derived.  We were also greeted with the unique call of storks nesting in their huge treetop nests. 

Nesting Storks atop Palacio Toledo

Cáceres  is a UNESCO world heritage site because of its beautifully preserved medieval city.  The aptly named ciudad monumental boasts 9 palaces, 6 churches (including a cathedral), a convent and towers.  Furthermore, the Cácereño Semana Santa (Holy Week in Cáceres) is regarded as one of the most beautiful and an interpretation centre here is dedicated to the Easter processions.  The storks also feature on the UNESCO list too as part of the natural heritage of the region.

The ciudad monumental is compact: no more than a square mile and crammed with many architectural and religious gems - you need a long weekend to see everything.  It would've been lovely to spend more time and explore the countryside but, alas, another time. So without further ado ...

Jamon! Jamon!
You can't come to Extremadura and not try Jamón Ibérico Bellota - it would be an insult!  It is my absolute favourite - I salivate at the thought of it - truly!  So, after checking into the elegant Hotel Iberia, a former palace just off the Plaza Mayor, it was time to eat.

The beautiful reception at Hotel Iberia

We'd heard the best area for good food is Plaza San Juan, a stone's throw from our hotel.  Our American friend and self-confessed foodie, Cathy, had recommended Meson San Juan.  We were having trouble choosing from the fabulous menu so we went with the recommendation of Don Rafael, the owner.  We knew we were in a quality establishment and that he knew his business and we were duly presented with a plate of the finest Jamón Ibérico Bellota Extremeño and a glass of his own red wine!  Then he brought us Tosta con Torta del Casar y Solomillo (bread topped with a local cheese and medallions of Ibérico fillets) - and more wine - food of the Gods!  If you're in any doubt as to the quality of this meat then have a little read: http://www.jamon.com/iberico.html

Happy diners @ Meson San Juan

We also met Paco and Marie Carmen with whom we shared some time over more of Don Rafael's wine.  They are muy simpaticos (lovely and friendly) and we discovered that Paco and Rafael are family.  Somehow the conversation got onto football: they are Atlético Madrid fans and Mick is a lifelong Chelsea fan.  This roused Paco's anti-Mourinho feelings and we had fun with some banter (yes, my Spanish has extended to football and medical vocab)!  As quite often happens in Spain, we ended up spending a lovely afternoon with them, after which they offered to take us on a mini tour of the city tomorrow - how kind are the Cácereños?  Once again, we are touched by the kindness and open-heartedness of the Spanish people.  I will really miss this when we return to dreary Britain.

There wasn't much time for sight-seeing after that so we decided to call it a day, except for a little later in the evening we fancied tapas at San Yuste but it was closed so we pitched up at Meson San Juan again.  This time Rafael recommended a dish from his "anticrisis menu" - huge almejas (clams) and a bottle of wine for €8pp!  We also fancied some asparagus from nearby Vega (also home to top quality pimentón) and - truly - it is the best we've ever tasted - so fresh and cooked to perfection.  We really love Rafael's restaurant, food, staff and his business style.  Don't overlook a visit here if you find yourself in Cáceres.

Saturday 8 March
We met with Paco and he took us on a mini tour of the old city to include a drive to the nearby mountain for some great views of the city and surrounding countryside followed by a visit to Palacio de Diputacion which is now a museum full of beautiful artwork and Renaissance architecture.  Next up was Palacio de las Ciguenas (Palace of Storks), today the Cáceres Military Headquarters with a small weapons museum inside.  This is one of the few palaces that has its tower intact - Queen Isabel ordered that all towers be removed but this one received royal pardon.  Paco then took us to nearby Plaza de San Mateo and site of a beautiful church and convent.  Paco had plans to escape to the countryside and so, after a beer, we said 'hasta siempre'.  We won't forget our friends in Cáceres - gracias a todo y abrazos fuertes! Y
¡venga Atlético!

Here's some photos of the city, taken over a couple of days:

The Plaza Mayor (main square)

The famous Arco de Estrella, just off Plaza Mayor

The Arco de Estrella (Star Arch) is the main entrance into the old city which leads you to Plaza de Santa Maria and the Cathedral which has a fabulous cedar altarpiece and a much loved Black Jesus. 

The Cathedral's beautiful altarpiece

The Black Jesus, Cathedral, Cáceres

Then onto nearby Plaza de San Jorge where there is a statue of Saint George and the Dragon.

Saint George slaying the dragon!

Here, too, is the Iglesia de San Francisco Javier, my favourite saint.  It is also home to a small permanent belen (nativity scene) exhibition.

The beautiful altar, Iglesia de San Francisco Javier

A short walk from here is Plaza de San Mateo and its fine church.

Iglesia de San Mateo

Later, we had some tapas at the not so good Meson Ibérico - we thought we should vary our eateries - but it wasn't up to scratch.  We were, though, in poll position to see a procession to mark the first Sunday of Lent but being a lapsed Catholic, I was the last to know!  A group of men carry the trono (throne) and to ease the load of the weight they adopt a strange gait, rocking gently from side to side at a slightly diagonal angle - in silence - other than the shuffle of their feet.  In this procession, the men are carrying Jesus to the various churches.  It is really humbling to see the such devotion - not the first time we've seen this in Spain.  I'm really looking forward to experiencing my first Semana Santa in Spain shortly!

Sunday 9 March
Today we decided to see a few things we didn't have time for yesterday.  

Mick atop Torre de Bujaco with Palacio Toledo behind

Fliss atop Torre de Bujaco with Cáceres below and Vega (in distance)

And that brings us to our final evening in Cáceres so where better to eat than in Meson San Juan?  There are other eateries in town but not a huge selection so for location, menu, quality and value it doesn't come much better than this.  We couldn't resist a surtido - a mixed platter of Ibérico meats - happy days!

We really enjoyed our weekend here and would recommend it for fans of medieval architecture, gastronomy, wildlife, warm people and a taste of Spain that will challenge your stereotypes.  And so, until our next visit, we raise a glass to our friends, Paco, Marie Carmen and Don Rafael!

The big-hearted Rafael, dueño at Meson San Juan, Cáceres

Next stop is Salamanca, the University city that is Spain's equivalent to Oxford and home to fabulous architecture so, hasta muy pronto!