Sunday, 23 March 2014

San Sebastian Revisited - the pintxo trail

Monday 17 March
Hola to you all from stylish San Sebastian, the stunning coastal city of the Basque Country.  We loved it so much when we were here last year that we thought it would be a perfect place to end our Spanish adventure (boo-hoo!) in style.  And as you've probably gathered from the blog, good food is definitely one of our favourite pastimes so the gastronomic capital of Spain beckoned once more!

We were up with the lark for the 0800 train from Madrid which took us through a couple of towns we planned to visit but decided against as we were running short on time.  It was a 5-hour journey and covered approximately 325 miles, calling at Segovia, Valladolid (which was once a contender for Spain's capital city), then through rural Burgos (on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route) and would be a very scenic section to walk with its rolling green hills, blue skies and Alpine style lodges.

The hills are alive ...
The dramatic landscape in Burgos
The architecture becomes unmistakably Basque the further north east you go - stone built and quite Alpine in appearance. The road and street signs change to Spanish and Basque (which I can't begin to get my head around in terms of pronunciation - much use of the letters k, x, z and l).  The roots of the Basque language are not known but it is unique - not based on any language that we speak today.  It was almost lost under Franco but it is being taught in school now which helps maintain cultural identity in an increasingly homogenised world.

It was a lovely sunny day so after checking in to our hotel it was time for a beach walk, this time along San Sebastian's other beach and the surfer's haven Playa de Gros which is around the headland from the much-loved Playa de las Conchas.  Both are considered to be among the best of European city beaches.  A short walk away is the harbour for Skipper who can never be too far away from the Briny.  For dinner we fancied pintxos so we headed into the parte vieja (old part). 

Pintxo -v- Tapa
You may be wondering what the difference is between pintxos (pronounced pinchos) and tapas so here's what I've discovered.  Pintxos (pronounced pinchos) are always served north of Madrid - you don't find them in southern Spain.  So-called because they were originally served on a piece of bread with a cocktail stick through them (from the Spanish verb 'pinchar' - to pierce) to keep them together.  As you know, pintxos have evolved into an art form - especially here in San Sebastian - and so you don't always see the cocktail stick but the name has remained.  You'll also get pintxos in Salamanca.

Tapas were traditionally served on top of a glass to keep the flies out in southern Spain so were called tapas (from the verb 'tapar' to cover/put a lid on).  You see tapas from Madrid southwards and they were traditionally free but increasingly less so. 

Without doubt the San Sebastian pintxos reign supreme - really elegantly constructed (yes, constructed is the word) bite-size delights.  They can be meat, veggies, tortilla or seafood (or a combination); they can be hot or cold but always beautifully presented.  The art of eating pintxos/tapas is to have one or two with a pintxo size glass of wine or beer and move on to the next bar.  More often than not they're eaten standing up, informally, rather than while seated.  Its the Spanish way and we love it.  Even coffee bars here offer an assortment of pintxos - its part of everyday life here. 

We had a list of places to visit - compiled from my indispensable Lonely Planet guide and our American friend Cathy - the pintxo queen!  Bar Goiz-Argi was first up which is renowned for its gambas a la plancha which were delicious!  Also a brochetta de cerdo (pork kebab marinated in something delicious) plus Albarino wine - divine!

Pintxo & Tapa @ Bar Goiz-Argi

We tried to get into Borda Berri but it was closed so onto Bar Martinez where we had mussels topped with cheese and breadcrumbs; bacalao (salted cod); and a veggie terrine and drinks; and then onto La Mejillonera for more mejillones en vinagre (mussels in vinegarette) and they're signature dishes of patatas bravas (potatoes in a spicy tomato sauce) and calamares (octopus rings) - heaven!  So with full bellies and contented hearts we waddled back to the hotel.

Spoiled for choice at Bar Martinez!
Tuesday 18 March
Sadly it was an overcast and drizzly day - that's San Sebastian for you - being on the Bay of Biscay and surrounded by the Pyrenees it is anything but predictable!  Some say that's part of its charm and it didn't stop us walking along Playa de las Conchas.  Believe it or not some hardy souls were swimming - in costumes - not body suits!  We had a bit of shopping to do as well before heading off for lunch at seafood restaurant Alberto for their menu del dia which was nice but not what I'd call particularly memorable.  We loved the old style dining room - it reminded me of some City of London establishments I've spent too much time in!

And after a bit more shopping and packing it was time to head into the parte vieja once more for some more pintxos, this time at the highly acclaimed Astelana.  The bar was laden with some beautiful offerings but the the local way is to check the blackboard for the house specials.  Tonight we fancied costilla barbacoa (bbq ribs) which were 'melt in the mouth' perfect; brochetta de cerdo served with an apple sauce which was divine; from the counter we chose a mushroom filo parcel; a jamon and fried quail's egg on a slice of crunchy bread and a crab tartlet topped with a prawn - heaven!  We then moved onto Bar Haizai for a quick drink and were introduced to Verdejo, a lovely white wine from Valladolid (the same region as our favourite red, Ribera del Duero, is harvested).  We recommend you try both these wines - Ribera rivals the mighty Rioja but we think better, certainly smoother, while Verdejo is much like a good white Rioja.  I think I missed my calling in life!

Pintxos @ Astelana
And with trousers pinching (from the pintxos) we strolled back to the hotel for our last night in Spain! Sadly, tomorrow takes us across the border by coach to Biarritz, also a Basque region.  I write with a heavy heart as the inevitable unfolds:  the end of an unforgettable year and the start of our journey back to reality.  But I promise you it won't be dull, as ever in the adventures of Pintxo & Tapa!


Whilst in France, we'll visit Mick's cousin, Claire, and her hubbie Lol (Laurence) in Agen who, you may recall, kindly stored our worldly goods from the boat while we travelled around Spain.  It'll be great to see them again and catch up with their news.  Then onwards up to Dunkirk where we join the boat which will be great after 6 months.   And here's how the oldest backpackers in town travelled around Spain on train, coach and automobile.

Pintxo & Tapa with our trusty trollies & rucksacks
So that's it for now.  Tune in soon for our Spanish Top 10 as well as a short dispatch from Biarritz and France - over! 

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