Feeling lost, in France...

Friday 28 March
Bonjour de Dunkirk!  We've been in France for a week now and I have to say we are feeling at a little bit of a loss.  We're missing Spain, the heat, the food, the cost of living (half of that in France) - and I'm missing the language and people.  The weather of course doesn't help but there's something more ... a certain je ne c'est pas.  It was great to meet up with Claire, Lol and their menagerie who made us feel very welcome but the north European chill and dampness is a shock to our Mediterranean-ised blood!  Even Dunkirk doesn't feel quite the same this time around - maybe its because it is a line in the sand - the point at which our adventure ends and where we have to address reality.   You're thinking, '...hang on, who are they to complain?' and you're right - so we'll harrumph instead!  

A week in France
Bonjour de Biarritz, the surprisingly quaint coastal town on France's Bay of Biscay.  For some reason we were expecting a Marbella-cum-Newquay type resort but we were pleasantly surprised.  There is big surf and dramatic coastline here, with the Spanish Pyrenees tantalisingly close.  To be fair, as lovely as Biarritz is, there isn't much to do with limited time.  Its all about the beaches, coast and surfing with a few nice restaurants thrown in for good measure.  So here's a few images - the first two are a stone's throw from our balcony:

The surf's up!  Spanish Pyrenees in the hazy distance

A lovely coastal abode, a bit further down the beach

We arrived in beautiful sunshine so we wandered around the coast:

Reminds us of Broadstairs, Kent - in its better days!

Typical Biarritz architecture

We came a cropper a couple of times around the French dejeuner (lunch) - when cafes and restaurants stop serving lunch at anything near 2pm - makes you wonder if they chose the wrong business!  We collected the hire car which was interesting as the office was shut and the 'out of hours' number was unavailable.  Fortunately the guy turned up with our car after about 15 minutes or so - just as well as the next best quote from competitors was double the price - always best to book early!

Agen
We had a good journey from sunny Biarritz and arrived in overcast Agen where we met Mick's cousin, Claire & hubbie Lol.  You wouldn't believe it but we couldn't find the rendezvous - Agen Aqueduct - you can't really miss something like that, can you?  Well, the locals can, apparently!  Despite asking several folk we were none the wiser so we parked at ... a PdP.  You may recall from the canal part of the blog that PdP is an abbreviation for Port de Plaisance, or informal mooring.  We're like moths to a flame!  We smiled when we saw a fleet of Locaboat hire barges (aka bumper boats) - but that's because we're ashore!

The pretty Agen PdP

I hadn't realised that Agen takes you on to the Canal du Midi, which we'd considered cruising through and out onto the Bay of Biscay as a route home.  From here we drove to the nearby Pont du Canal (or aqueduct) which, like that on the Canal de Briare, takes boats over a major river, this time the Garonne.  Agen's pont was built by Eiffel as well but is not quite as ornate - lacking pillars/towers at each end.  It is still beautiful and it took us back to our days in the canals of which the Pont de Canal, Briare was a major highlight.

Riverbank view of Pont de Canal crossing the Garonne

Pont de Canal, Agen close up - compare with pic below

Pont de Canal, Briare

We had a lovely time with Claire & Lol catching up on the news.  We visited at a very important time for them as the municipal elections were taking place at the weekend, the outcome of which is important to them in terms of their plans for a classic car circuit on their land.  For the first time in years there is a viable opposition party to an incumbent Mayor with a 30 year tenure - time to go - hopefully.  Good luck to the new team!  After a lovely home-cooked casserole and several bottles of wine it was time for bed and we retreated to La Cave - a converted store house/cellar which is yet another novel spot for their visitors (you may recall last year we were in the pigeonerie).


Where's the sun gone?!
Since leaving Spain we've lost about 10+ degrees of heat and more sunlight.  We awoke to the sound of rain - not great as we planned to load our stuff that we'd stored at Claire's into the hire car.  The former fruitery has been home to our worldly goods (from the boat) since last September and we'd forgotten the fruitery is big enough to drive into.  But, first, we had to traverse the orchard which went well until ... we hit a quagmire!  There is a spot at the bottom of the hill which had become waterlogged after a very rainy winter and we were well and truly stuck.  Fortunately Claire & Lol being rural landowners have a land rover and tractor so we figured one of those would do the trick.  Lol was there to save the day - what a trooper - cheers Lol! - and in no time at all he'd driven the tractor to meet us, attached the tow lines - to our hire car (ouch if that went wrong!) - and pulled us to terra firma - phew!  With our goods aboard we returned to the house for a warm cuppa.  And that was pretty much the form for the rest of the day as we were rained in, plus Claire & Lol were unwell - a cue to take it easy as we'd been on the road for a while.

All aboard the skylark!

Lol comes to the rescue!

After a few days at Les Calmes, alas it was time to move on and it was recommended that we stop at nearby Cahors, so we said our au revoirs and set off on the next leg of our journey north.

Cahors
The perfect place to stop for a coffee and leg stretch - about an hour or so from Agen and beautiful. Cahors is a medieval town located in the Midi-Pyrenees and capital of the Quercy region.  It straddles the River Lot and its centrepiece is Pont de Valentre, a 14thC fortified bridge that is, apparently, one of France's most photographed sites, and you can see why.  Thanks for the tip Claire & Lol!

The stunning Pont de Valentre, Cahors
Image c/o Tourist Information, Cahors

And here's a more realistic view of weather conditions at the time of our visit. The weir was at full flow with snow and ice melt.  Here too was a lovely little lock which, at this time of year, is inaccessible owing to water levels and flow.

The weir at Pont de Valentre, over River Lot

Chateaudun
Then on to our midway stop of Chateaudun in the picturesque Loire Valley.  Of course, we crossed the Loire at various points during our canal trip - not least via the Pont de Canal de Briare.  We decided upon Chateaudun by simply looking at the map, choosing somewhere midway between Agen and Dunkirk et voila!  We didn't fancy Orleans being a big town but preferred a more rural spot - and you don't get much more rural than Chateaudun.  Apart from a 12thC castle (hence its name) there isn't much here but as we're passing through we figured it didn't matter this time!  It reminded us of parts of Cambridgeshire and Lincolnshire - miles & miles of flat agricultural land with an airbase in the midst of it all.  Still, it was quiet and the hotel was great so no complaints.  We ate at the Buffalo Grill which, whilst winning  no prizes for gastronomy, fitted the bill perfectly - sometimes you need a grilled steak! - and the service was great. 

Thursday 27 March - Chateaudun to Dunkirk
We awoke early to a thick frost and a chilly 3 degrees (sadly not the singers!) which stirred us into action.  We soon warmed up with the car heaters on full blast and had a good journey north towards Paris, around it and further north to Dunkirk.  We passed through the Loiret and Dordogne regions, home to rolling hills which flattened as we drove further north through Picardie, the Somme and Nord-Pas-de-Calais.  We passed huge slag heaps from the once massive coal mining industry in this region - we were moving too fast to get a piccie unfortunately.  But France's largest mining museum is located here - one for the 'to do' list.    http://www.chm-lewarde.com/en/index.html

Further onwards, we started to see familiar place names from the early days of our boat trip: Compiegne, Bethune, Lens, Douai, Cambrai, St Omer, Arques and Bourbourg.  We decided to stop at Bourbourg for lunch and take a walk down memory lane.  Its lovely to recall what we've experienced and achieved together in the last year - unforgettable!  We'll never forget just how wet and vulnerable we felt on this mooring.  No marina security,  no power - just us and Reward - on a village mooring - in the stillness and silence of rural France with the Eberspacher (on board heating) running to dry us out!  The next morning the VNF chap turned up in his trusty van - that was a sight for sore eyes! - to escort us through a series of bridges and locks - and we were on our way ... wondering if we'd missed some vital news, got the date wrong, or were simply the only nutters on the canals!  There wasn't a soul about for a week or so ... and then we met Alan and Carole on She's a Be in Courchelles-sur-Lens - and also glimpsed Splodge for the first time.   

Bourbourg - our first mooring with lock in background

And then onto Dunkirk, a few miles away.  We've booked into a little studio for a few days which is great - well located, clean and comfortable.  Compact and bijou in the words of the great Stephen Fry it is just as well we've become dab hands at being creative with very limited space and cooking facilities - we've learnt that from several of the apartments we've rented.  In fact Reward offers far superior cooking facilities and stowage - boat builders really are masters of design - proof of that is how much we've brought back from Claire's!  As I write we're surrounded by an assortment of bags and boxes - very attractive - well and truly filled to the gunwales! 


Bonjour á Reward!
And then it was time to check on our lovely Reward in the boatyard, where's she's been on the hard standing since last September.  You may recall Skipper flew back to check her over after she'd been transported by road and all was well and, although she was secure, the high winds and generally horrid winter here may have resulted in damage but we're glad to say that all is well.  Its good to see her again ... but maybe not for long.  As I write we're in the process of selling her and so as not to tempt fate I'll say no more! 

Friday 28 March - Dunkirk (and UK!)
Skipper is back in the UK to buy a car and bring her back to transport our stuff back to the UK.  Our tenants move out on 11 April so we'll just about get in before I fly the next day to Malaga for Semana Santa - the grass really doesn't grow under our feet!

So, while Skipjack's away, Anchovy will play and I fancied a decent coffee, heavenly fruit tart and a bit of sightseeing - particularly the beautiful Saint Eloi Belfry, a UNESCO world heritage site and 13thC watch tower, used as such until 1940.  It was once attached to St Eloi Church but a fire in 1558 destroyed the church and the Belfry was separated - officially so since 1782.  She stands at 58m in height with foundations of only 1.70m - the amazing buttresses give it the support it needs. 

St Eloi Belfry with St Eloi church in background

Dunkirk from Belfry - town hall tower and Channel (horizon)

The beautiful St Eloi Church from Belfry

Dunkirk's most famous son is Jean Bart, the privateer who, rarely for a commoner (as opposed to nobility) rose to the rank of Admiral as he was such a successful racketeer.  He is buried in St Eloi church and is commemorated in the central square bearing his name.  The bell tower also rings daily in his memory.

So that's it for now.  Skipper should be back at the weekend with our new(ish) car, after which we plan a couple of days relaxing after an eventful week - in a positive way!  I'll write again soon with a final update. Over & out for now!

¡Hasta la vista España!

20 March - Biarritz
Hello from Biarritz, a lovely coastal town on the French Biscay coast and from where I write my last Spanish blog.  I'll do a separate post about Biarritz and our journey home through France.  For now, though, I'm trying to imagine what I'll do with the time I have spent blogging - a part of daily life over the last year but, moreover, how I'll function without my customary cafe con leche, pan con tomate, pintxos, Ribera, Verdejo, Spanish people and somehow get back into life in the UK - it just seems unthinkable (and unbearable!) 

To help ease the pain I'm reminiscing about the past 6 months in Spain.  You may recall when we left France that we put together a Top 10 of our experiences there so we thought we'd do something similar for Spain.  So here goes, the with the most forgettable at No. 10 (and most unforgettable at No. 1):

10.  Spanish Radio.  We've travelled on a lot of buses and there's often a radio playing so we're a bit of an authority on this.  Sorry guys - your pop music leaves much to be desired, especially the songs that are a fusion of Spanish and Moroccan sounds - Room 101 for you!

9.  Santiago de Compostela - town.   Before we go any further - we don't mean the Cathedral which is really something special - there is a rare, benevolent force at work there.  We also respect that Santiago is hallowed ground for pilgrims and we don't take any of that away from them.  But, other than that, we don't think it has that much to offer apart from some interesting architecture.  The weather is the main bugbear here - it is so damp, cold and dingy for much of the year and it rarely dries.  Damp and mold is a problem here so if you have an allergy to mold (which I do) then you should be aware of that.  We didn't rate the food either - sorry food critics - we don't agree with you.  There are an inordinate amount of beggars - some that use violence - seriously!  So, if you're thinking of a long weekend we'd say don't bother.  Santiago is for pilgrims and other people of faith for which it is unforgettable.

And I know you think I'm biased but they were the only downsides for us during our time in Spain.  And on a brighter note:

8.  The Belen.  It was refreshing to experience a Spanish Christmas and New Year.  Obviously we are in a Catholic country and so the focus is very different.  The Belen is a nativity scene that is on public display and is a much loved part of Spanish Christmas.  Belens are built on show at town halls, churches and some shopping malls.  In some towns and cathedrals there are permanent Belens on display.  There is an Assocation of Belenistas!  Christmas Day (25th) is about the birth of Christ - it is a fairly quiet affair spent with extended family.  No presents are exchanged - that comes on the 12th day of Christmas (6th January), or the Night of Kings who traditionally came bearing gifts to the baby Jesus.  There is a real sense of anticipation which is touching.  Interestingly, there isn't a glitzy house decoration in sight - just the tree, inside. The streets are decorated tastefully by councils so, apart from that, the only house decoration you see is a poster hanging from many balconies of the baby Jesus.  It helps you redefine what Christmas is actually about.

7.  The formidable force that is Las Mayores.  Diminutive in size but huge in their collective impact, Spanish senior citizens are a force of nature and we love them.  They seem to be privy to information that us mere mortals just aren't in on.  We'll never forget seeing them in action at Santiago de Compostela station. We were waiting patiently at the lift for the platform indicator to flag up our departure to Madrid, aware that a couple of others were there before us.  Suddenly a group of 12 or so senior folk were in front of us, fending us off with their maletas (suitcases), filling the lift and they were off.  It was a masterclass in assertiveness - hire them for a corporate workshop and you'd learn a thing or two!

6.5  Las manifestaciónes.  Yes, the Spanish love a strike, rally or march which are an outlet for Spanish disgruntlement.  Rarely a week (at most a fortnight) passes without a manifestación.  Usually fairly ordered gatherings (but not always) they are accompanied by drums, whistles and sometimes a band.  Most are focused on government austerity measures to repair the Spanish economy - known as la crisis - of which you hear talk daily, everywhere and at every level. 

6.  The Paseo.  That most Spanish of pastimes is the Sunday (or bank holiday) paseo.  Dressed smartly, the extended family go out for a walk, usually along a beach, river, park or other central thoroughfare.  The elders are usually arm in arm, then men often in a smart hat or cap.  The abuelos (grandparents) aren't on the periphery though - they play an active part in keeping the younger family in check.  The children are always traditionally dressed - girls in pretty dresses, tights, shoes, quite often with a bow or headband; boys in winter with woolly tights(!), shorts, jumper and smart shoes.  Rarely do you see jeans, trainers, fleeces or anoraks.  Really nice to see.

5.   Fabulous landscape & endless blue skies.  Spain is a vast country with an amazing geography.  We'll never forget lush northern Spain; the mountain ranges; the vast, rolling hills and plains of Castilla-Mancha and Extremadura; the seas, rivers and oceans; the vineyards; the orange groves; Buen Retiro park; and all under the endless Spanish blue sky.  Is it that we're that much closer to the equator and the effect of the full spectrum of light?  Whatever it is that creates those huge, beautiful, azure skies which give us light-starved Brits that rare feel good factor, we'll miss it - big time!

4.  Cathedrals & architecture.  Spain is awash with stunning architecture, so much so that you almost take it for granted.  Every town and city has church(es), cathedral(s) and at least one other stunning landmark. We'll never forget Segovia's aqueduct; the Cathedrals at Santiago, Salamanca, Malaga and Zaragoza; the Plazas Mayor at Salamanca, Caceres and Pamplona; the Mezquita at Cordoba; the Alcazar at Malaga (which we think is better than the hallowed - and packed! - Alhambra); the bull rings; Roman bridges at Zaragoza, Cordoba and Puente la Reina; the castles at Segovia and Olite; the narrow streets of San Sebastian, Pamplona and Cadiz - the list is endless. 

3.  Fiestas/Ferias.  Sadly we didn't get to see too many of these because we arrived in Spain a bit later than planned but those we did see, we'll never forget: the Rioja Wine Festival - where we met our American friends Cathy & Janet; the children's bull run in Pamplona; and I'm about to experience my first Semana Santa (Holy Week, or Easter) in Malaga - with Cathy - OMG!!! - is Malaga ready for us?!  I've decided that I want to visit as many Spanish festivals as I can while it still has them - health & safety may have something to say about rocket men, towers of fire, etc!

2.  Spanish food, beer & wine.  Pintxos, tapas, Estrella Galicia, el aperitivo,  great wines and sherry.   Spain should be proud of its food and wine.  From the humble olive to the finest cuisine, Spain does it very well.   And always based on simple, quality, natural ingredients.  Many food critics think that one of the best places to eat in the world is San Sebastian; we think Pamplona is biting at its heels.  And don't underestimate Galicia and its growing place on the gastronomic map.  We'll never forget Caceres and its Jamón Ibérico Bellota; Cordoba's roasted lamb; Cuenca's venison; San Sebastian's pintxos; La Mancha's sopa de ajo (garlic soup); Valencia's oranges; Andalucia's pan con tomate; the national dessert that is flan (creme caramel); the fabulous coffee; Ribera del Duero; Albarinho; Ribeiro; Manzanilla; Pedro Ximenez; Verdejo; Rioja; Bellota liqueur - the list is equally endless.

and no surprise as to what's straight in at No. 1 and totally unforgettable:

1.  The Spanish.  We are touched by how open and warm the Spanish are.  It should come as no surprise to me - I've known it all along - but it never ceases to amaze me just how kind, helpful and welcoming the Spanish are.  More so in the south but not exclusively.  We met some lovely people in Asturias and Bilbao too.  Perhaps its the role of the extended family and, dare I say, religion?  There is trust and sincerity - an open-heartedness - and its unforgettable.   Whatever it is, it creates a considerate and respectful society - wake up Britain!

We are lucky, too, to have met some great people on our travels.  From those through whom we've rented apartments (Isabel in Pamplona; Juan & Yolanda in Valencia; Inma in Malaga; Martin & David in Estepona; Fran in Jerez; Eva in Cadiz).  Then there's the friends we've made along the way (Cathy & Janet in Logroño; Maribel & Colmar, Manolo, Vonnie & Alec in Estepona; Rafa, Paco & Marie Carmen in Cáceres). 

So, that's it folks - tragically - my last post from Spain!  We hope you've enjoyed our adventures with us and enjoy our journey home through France.  I can tell you as I write that its been eventful already!  So catch up soon for more looney tunes from Pintxo & Tapa!

San Sebastian Revisited - the pintxo trail

Monday 17 March
Hola to you all from stylish San Sebastian, the stunning coastal city of the Basque Country.  We loved it so much when we were here last year that we thought it would be a perfect place to end our Spanish adventure (boo-hoo!) in style.  And as you've probably gathered from the blog, good food is definitely one of our favourite pastimes so the gastronomic capital of Spain beckoned once more!

We were up with the lark for the 0800 train from Madrid which took us through a couple of towns we planned to visit but decided against as we were running short on time.  It was a 5-hour journey and covered approximately 325 miles, calling at Segovia, Valladolid (which was once a contender for Spain's capital city), then through rural Burgos (on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route) and would be a very scenic section to walk with its rolling green hills, blue skies and Alpine style lodges.

The hills are alive ...

The dramatic landscape in Burgos

The architecture becomes unmistakably Basque the further north east you go - stone built and quite Alpine in appearance. The road and street signs change to Spanish and Basque (which I can't begin to get my head around in terms of pronunciation - much use of the letters k, x, z and l).  The roots of the Basque language are not known but it is unique - not based on any language that we speak today.  It was almost lost under Franco but it is being taught in school now which helps maintain cultural identity in an increasingly homogenised world.

It was a lovely sunny day so after checking in to our hotel it was time for a beach walk, this time along San Sebastian's other beach and the surfer's haven Playa de Gros which is around the headland from the much-loved Playa de las Conchas.  Both are considered to be among the best of European city beaches.  A short walk away is the harbour for Skipper who can never be too far away from the Briny.  For dinner we fancied pintxos so we headed into the parte vieja (old part). 

Pintxo -v- Tapa
You may be wondering what the difference is between pintxos (pronounced pinchos) and tapas so here's what I've discovered.  Pintxos (pronounced pinchos) are always served north of Madrid - you don't find them in southern Spain.  So-called because they were originally served on a piece of bread with a cocktail stick through them (from the Spanish verb 'pinchar' - to pierce) to keep them together.  As you know, pintxos have evolved into an art form - especially here in San Sebastian - and so you don't always see the cocktail stick but the name has remained.  You'll also get pintxos in Salamanca.

Tapas were traditionally served on top of a glass to keep the flies out in southern Spain so were called tapas (from the verb 'tapar' to cover/put a lid on).  You see tapas from Madrid southwards and they were traditionally free but increasingly less so. 

Without doubt the San Sebastian pintxos reign supreme - really elegantly constructed (yes, constructed is the word) bite-size delights.  They can be meat, veggies, tortilla or seafood (or a combination); they can be hot or cold but always beautifully presented.  The art of eating pintxos/tapas is to have one or two with a pintxo size glass of wine or beer and move on to the next bar.  More often than not they're eaten standing up, informally, rather than while seated.  Its the Spanish way and we love it.  Even coffee bars here offer an assortment of pintxos - its part of everyday life here. 

We had a list of places to visit - compiled from my indispensable Lonely Planet guide and our American friend Cathy - the pintxo queen!  Bar Goiz-Argi was first up which is renowned for its gambas a la plancha which were delicious!  Also a brochetta de cerdo (pork kebab marinated in something delicious) plus Albarino wine - divine!

Pintxo & Tapa @ Bar Goiz-Argi

We tried to get into Borda Berri but it was closed so onto Bar Martinez where we had mussels topped with cheese and breadcrumbs; bacalao (salted cod); and a veggie terrine and drinks; and then onto La Mejillonera for more mejillones en vinagre (mussels in vinegarette) and they're signature dishes of patatas bravas (potatoes in a spicy tomato sauce) and calamares (octopus rings) - heaven!  So with full bellies and contented hearts we waddled back to the hotel.

Spoiled for choice at Bar Martinez!

Tuesday 18 March
Sadly it was an overcast and drizzly day - that's San Sebastian for you - being on the Bay of Biscay and surrounded by the Pyrenees it is anything but predictable!  Some say that's part of its charm and it didn't stop us walking along Playa de las Conchas.  Believe it or not some hardy souls were swimming - in costumes - not body suits!  We had a bit of shopping to do as well before heading off for lunch at seafood restaurant Alberto for their menu del dia which was nice but not what I'd call particularly memorable.  We loved the old style dining room - it reminded me of some City of London establishments I've spent too much time in!

And after a bit more shopping and packing it was time to head into the parte vieja once more for some more pintxos, this time at the highly acclaimed Astelana.  The bar was laden with some beautiful offerings but the the local way is to check the blackboard for the house specials.  Tonight we fancied costilla barbacoa (bbq ribs) which were 'melt in the mouth' perfect; brochetta de cerdo served with an apple sauce which was divine; from the counter we chose a mushroom filo parcel; a jamon and fried quail's egg on a slice of crunchy bread and a crab tartlet topped with a prawn - heaven!  We then moved onto Bar Haizai for a quick drink and were introduced to Verdejo, a lovely white wine from Valladolid (the same region as our favourite red, Ribera del Duero, is harvested).  We recommend you try both these wines - Ribera rivals the mighty Rioja but we think better, certainly smoother, while Verdejo is much like a good white Rioja.  I think I missed my calling in life!

Pintxos @ Astelana

And with trousers pinching (from the pintxos) we strolled back to the hotel for our last night in Spain! Sadly, tomorrow takes us across the border by coach to Biarritz, also a Basque region.  I write with a heavy heart as the inevitable unfolds:  the end of an unforgettable year and the start of our journey back to reality.  But I promise you it won't be dull, as ever in the adventures of Pintxo & Tapa!


Whilst in France, we'll visit Mick's cousin, Claire, and her hubbie Lol (Laurence) in Agen who, you may recall, kindly stored our worldly goods from the boat while we travelled around Spain.  It'll be great to see them again and catch up with their news.  Then onwards up to Dunkirk where we join the boat which will be great after 6 months.   And here's how the oldest backpackers in town travelled around Spain on train, coach and automobile.

Pintxo & Tapa with our trusty trollies & rucksacks

So that's it for now.  Tune in soon for our Spanish Top 10 as well as a short dispatch from Biarritz and France - over! 

Cuenca - a cliffhanger!

Saturday 15 March
Hola de Cuenca, or should I say the old part of Cuenca, a beautiful medieval village on a hilltop between two gorges which separate the Rios Júcar and Huécar.  Set in the vast Castilla-La Mancha region just a couple of hours from Madrid it is, like Segovia, another world.  Cuenca is also a UNESCO world heritage site because of its dramatic casa colgadas (hanging houses).

From the bus station it is about a 30 minute walk - uphill! - so we took a loop line bus to the Mirador (viewing point) for vistas of this spectacular valley - and that's before you spot the casas colgadas.  Not many people live in the old town but enough to warrant a regular bus service up the hill from the new town below.  I can't imagine what a winter would be like up there... not for the feint hearted! We spent quite some time at the Mirador and the ridge marvelling at the big country:

The Grand Canyon?

The ultimate Big Country shot!

 

This rock formation reminded me of E.T.!

It was a beautiful, dry and hot day - 25+ degrees - so we took the slightly shaded gorge-side path until we reached Puente de San Pablo, an iron bridge footbridge over the gorge for closer views of the casas colgadas.

Path down from Mirador to Casas Colgadas

The casas were built in the 14thC and share some features with later British properties of the 1800s - internal and external timber beams, etc, which in some ways put me in mind of Dickens' Ye Olde Curiorisity Shoppe - but then I've always had a furtive imagination!

Casas Colgadas - slightly left of centre

And after a long walk it was time for nourishment at the fabulous El Secreto - a ravine-side restaurant which, itself, slightly overhangs the cliffs.  Cuenca - like most of Castilla - loves its roasted meats - and we'd worked up an appetite for the house speciality which is venison.  Mick chose the venison burgers - no bun here! - just three patés served with tasty crushed, garlic potatoes; I had the venison fillet in a red berry juice which was 'melt in the mouth' delicious!  We had a nice green salad with it and in no time the plates were clean!  We'd recommend the ever popular El Secreto to anyone who likes delicious, quality food with friendly service - ticks all our boxes!

The busy front of house @ El Secreto

And after a relaxed lunch it was time to waddle off to the bus station - about a 20 minute walk - downhill!  Our bus journey home was entertaining - the driver played an '80s music compilation which, after the dross which is Spanish pop radio, was a breath of fresh air and the soundtrack to my adolescence - I had a great trip down memory lane!

So, that sums up our day trip to Cuenca which we'd highly recommend - and so close to Madrid.  So, until the next post which will be from San Sebastian - ¡hasta pronto!

Magical Segovia

Friday 14 March
No sooner had we unpacked in Madrid than we were back on a bus to Segovia - an hour's drive but a world apart from the metropolis that is the capital city. 

Segovia is yet another UNESCO world heritage site in Spain - Wikipedia states there being 38 in the Iberian peninsula - we've visited 9 on this trip - it would've been 12 but for site closures and changed travel plans).  Alas - another time!

A few factoids ...
Legend has it that Segovia was founded by Hercules or the son of Noah.  Its two main claims to fame are the towering Roman aqueduct set within a modern city and its Disney-like Alcázar - on which Walt Disney styled his Sleeping Beauty castle.  And all of this set within the rolling hills of the Castilla region and its Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range = stunning!  A bit of royal history is that Isabel (who with Ferdinand are commonly referred to as the Catholic Kings) was proclaimed Queen here in 1474. 

Back to the 21stC and a short walk from the city centre the Cathedral becomes clear.  Don't worry - I'm not going to take you on a tour of yet another Cathedral(!) - but it does cut quite a figure.

The stunning Cathedral, Segovia

 A short walk from here and the ancient city walls appear which date back to Roman times. 

Fortified walls with snowcapped Sierra Guadarrama in distance

And then the Alcázar comes into full focus - and what a beauty!  It was built and extended in the 13th and 14th centuries and was razed to the ground by fire in 1862.  This newer Alcázar is considered to be an over-reconstruction when compared to the original.  We didn't go inside - as tempting as the write up was - as we had bought our return tickets and always prefer to be outside wherever possible!

Segovia's Alcázar - certainly no sleeping beauty!

A short walk down the hill from here is the delightful - and interesting - Iglesia de Vera Cruz (the Church of the True Cross), so named as it once housed a piece of the Crucifix (now in a nearby town and only viewed during Semana Santa (Holy Week, Easter).  Built by the Knights Templar in the 13thC it is considered to be one of the best preserved 12-sided churches in Europe.  Inside is a 2-storey chamber where the knights took their rites in secrecy and where they guarded the sacred relic.  

A wannabe Knights Templar!

We then went for a walk along the River Eresma which runs alongside the tranquil Monasterio del Parral whose monks chant a Gregorian mass at noon on Sundays - sadly we missed that beautiful sound.  

The calming waters leaving the monastery

And after all that walking - you know what's coming! - it was time for lunch at Casa Duque - top choice in the Lonely Planet.  Segovianos love their pig products - especially roasted pork.  Mick opted for butter beans with diced pork and chorizo while I chose a selection of tapas - white prawns in garlic sauce; a tasty mixed salad in a glass; and crab croquettes - all delicious!

A short waddle from here was the awesome aqueduct - an 894m engineering masterpiece first constructed in 1AD.  No mortar was used at all to hold the 20,000 granite blocks together.  And not just one level - but two!  Boasting 163 arches it reaches 28m at its highest point.  It was part of a network of underground canal and aqueduct that channelled water from the mountains more than 15km away.  It is breathtaking in its design, beauty and scale.

Perfect engineering!

And we didn't realise until we saw this photo at the shadow the aqueduct throws across the road - like a huge pedestrian crossing - tricky to negotiate at certain times of the day!

Aqueduct & Sierra Guadarrama in distance

And that wraps up our time here in Segovia.  We really loved it here and would recommend a visit if you're in Madrid - it is no distance at all and really is an uplifting sight.  So, over & out until our next post from another UNESCO site, Cuenca.

Springtime in Madrid

Thursday 13 to Sunday 16 March
Hello to you all from Madrid - or Madread - as Mick likes to call it (he's never been a fan of big cities) but its a great hub from which to explore some places we missed last time around.  And we've found a lovely little studio right on Parque Buen Retiro - the upmarket area of Madrid - very central but much like Knightsbridge & Kensington - very posh! 

You may recall our last visit was in November and so its lovely to see Buen Retiro in early spring.  The temperatures here are between 18-25 degrees at the moment but still that early morning breeze can give you a rude awakening!  Of course, Madrid is on a high plain so it gets both extremes - very hot and very cold - weather.

Love is in the air at Puerta Alcala, Buen Retiro

We also wanted to take in another couple of  plazas and cafes in the area and first up for lunch was the fabulous HV, a trendy cafe/restaurant on Calle de Alfonso XII - packed with Spanish on their lunch break - always a good sign!  They had a great offer of 5 tapas for euros 13 plus a glass of Ribera (our new favourite!)  We feasted on little toasts with jamón, mushroom and caramelised onion; tomato and smoked bacalao (salted cod); chicken skewers with mustard; mini hamburgers; and that classic Spanish dish - migas (posh breadcrumbs with jamón and pimentón (the lovely Spanish paprika) - all fried in olive oil - a bit tastier than our fried bread!

And a short walk from here is Buen Retiro - the always busy open space and park.   The vast majority of Spanish live in apartments - large or small - so the parks and plazas are like a back garden.  We got there about 6pm and it was still warm - 17 degrees - and it was packed! 

At the boat park at sundown

Sunday 16 March
After a couple of days on the road visiting Segovia and Cuenca (see separate posts) we fancied a relaxing day in Madrid as we've a long journey to northern Spain tomorrow.  So we wandered a short way to Plaza de Santa Ana, once the haunt of great thinkers, literaries and artists where they would gather for tertulias (long debates).  It certainly was buzzy but, after some of the plazas we've seen we didn't think it worthy of a photo! 

Then a short walk to Plaza Mayor to soak up the energy and to compare it once more to Salamanca's main square - and Salamanca definitely wins best plaza accolade - the architecture there is stunning.  And low and behold it was time for lunch at another Madrid institution - Grand Cafe de Iberia - opened in 1880s - and another haunt for the literaries of the day.  The food was good - not top drawer - but the service was more entertaining.  It put us in mind of Fawlty Towers - a hair's breadth away from chaos and meltdown!

After lunch, we took a stroll in Buen Retiro to have a peek at the statue of the Fallen Angel (Lucifer) - which stands at 666m above sea level!

El Ángel Caída (The Fallen Angel)

We also paid our respects to the Madrileños who were victims of the train bombs in March 2004 when 191 lost their lives.  Here is the Bosque del Recuerdo (Memorial Forest) where, for each victim, an olive or cypress tree is planted.  It is a lovely place for quiet contemplation in a busy park.

Bosque del Recuerdo

We wanted to take a rowing boat out on the lake but the queue was so long that we decided to have a beer instead and watch others exerting themselves on a hot & sunny afternoon!  

And that about wraps up our brief stay in Madrid.  We're moving northwards by train tomorrow for the lovely San Sebastian where we'll spend our last couple of nights in Spain.  This is getting too real - I can't imagine life without the Spanish, the coffees, tapas, great wine, magnificent cities and landmarks.  You may recall we visited San Sebastian for a day late last year and we loved it so much we decided then that we would return.  So mixed feelings: we want to be in San Sebastian but we've both said we'll really miss Spain - more so than France.  So, until the next post I'll say buenas noches and leave you with a fitting image of Palacio Cristal, Buen Retiro.

As the sun goes down on our wonderful Spanish adventure...