Jerez - the beautiful Andalucian horses

Thursday 6 February
One of the reasons we chose to stay in Jerez was the opportunity to see the Andalucian horse show at the Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian Art.  There's something very special about these horses - their elegance, poise, colouring and their ability to 'dance'.

I did a bit of research before writing this post (sources: www.andalusianhorses.org.uk and www.theequinest.com/breeds/andalusian-horse/) as I wanted to learn a little about the history of this breed.  I learned that it is likely it originates from the Arabian horse given that Spain has a very strong Moorish past.  That would certainly explain its agility and athleticism.  When crossed with the more docile, yielding nature of the native Andalucian horse this created what has become known as the modern Andalucian - with the slight frame, curved neck, flowing mane and tail, longer nose and ability to learn tricks.  Certainly their agility would be needed for the corridas (bull fights).  What I didn't realise, though, is that the Andalucian comes in various colours: white, dapple grey, chestnut and black.

During the many wars throughout Spain between Moors, Christians and inter-fighting among each other, the Andalucian horses were stolen or, worse, killed - almost to the point of extinction - but one herd was saved from destruction by an order of monks called the Carthusians (and is why they're also known as Carthusian horses).  The working monastery is still in Jerez today and is considered to be one of the great monuments in the Cadiz province.  With the monks on their side the herd was nurtured and eventually used to return the breed to healthy numbers.  Today, the breed is increasingly sought after. 

As you know we love and respect animals so we had mixed views about how the horses come to 'dance': do they have natural ability through their breeding - resulting in a slight, agile build; do they want to do these moves or are they forced through fear and cruelty, etc.; and, if the latter, would our ticket purchase support any negative treatment of these beautiful animals?  Eventually, we agreed that we had to see for ourselves.   As you'd expect, the School and its grounds were really impressive - only the best for these horses.

The show ring in splendid grounds

A horse outside the state of the art stables

In addition to training sessions which are open to the public, there is an opportunity to visit the Museum and working saddlery.  The highlight for most, though, is the weekly official show where the horses perform a series of tricks, kicks and steps to classical music.  So, cameras at the ready and anticipation mounting, we were disappointed to learn that photos and films were not allowed.  We could understand flashes might distract the horses but we thought the odd film wouldn't cause any disruption - alas we were wrong.  So, unfortunately, much of the show went unrecorded.

To give you an idea: the show started with ridden horses that walked and marched - under absolute control of the rider - changing direction, walking sidewards, backwards, taken from standing to gallop and abrupt halt, etc.  Amazing.  Next came two ridden horses doing much the same but interweaving these steps with one another.

This was followed by a slightly disturbing part of the show: six horses - all of which jumped, kicked and reared up (for about 10 seconds) individually under the control of their horseman.  We could see the horses' muscles straining  and they were perspiring - they didn't look comfortable and, of course in nature, they would do this - briefly - if they were threatened.  All of this continued while another horse was tethered to 2 central posts which trotted consistently - unaided or unprompted - with the rhythm of the music - we wondered if he happy to do so or was it simply drummed into him?

A brief interval followed and the horses came out leading various carriages: a 1-horse carriage; a 2-horse carriage; and a 4-horse carriage - all of which interweaved with one another in the arena - it really was a masterclass in horse and carriage control.

The finale was a group of 8 white horses whose routine involved the lovely trotting and walking we see in dressage.  They continuously walked in parallel, crossed one another and turned in perfect time with the music.  Really graceful and elegant - some were really lifting and pointing their legs and hooves with their necks curved downwards.  I hope this film shows you some of what they do - it's all I could manage without attracting too much attention from the omnipresent security bods!

So, that's an outline of our visit.  Would we recommend it?  Yes, but if you love animals be prepared to feel uneasy about some of the routines.  But then we figured the horses probably don't know any other way, that they get the absolute best of everything else (food, massage, etc)., and if our euros go towards giving them the best possible life then it was money well spent.  The choice, as they say, is yours!

We met some lovely people here: a Canadian couple who were on holiday in Jerez and visiting family; and a couple of Swiss girls - Juliana and Stephanie - who were visiting for the day from Seville.  We went on for tapas and sherry with Juliana and Stephanie at La Cruz Blanca - another ticked off from our 'tapas bars to visit' list - it was great food and enjoyable company.  After lunch, we said our goodbyes as they had some more sight-seeing to do.  Hello to you all if you're reading and email me when you can.

Monday 10 February
Well, sadly that wraps up our time in Jerez.  We have had a great time here and would recommend it to anyone interested in sherry, horses or flamenco.  It is also well located for day trips to nearby towns of interest.  We have been treated well - the locals here are lovely - really expressive in that Andalucian way.  We love nothing more than to watch and listen over our cafe con leche.  And to mark our last day here, we're eating at Bar Juanito - home to the best tapas in Jerez - so we'll sign of by saying !que aproveche! (bon appetit).  We'll update you with our Cadiz news shortly.