Hola de Jerez de la Frontera

Thursday 30 January
Buenos dias de Jerez, a very Spanish town in the Cadiz province of western Andalucia. In case you don't know, Jerez is famed for three things: flamenco, sherry and the beautiful Andalucian horses (I'll write a post for each of them separately).  Indeed, Jerez is the capital of Andalucian horse culture, the starting point on the famed sherry triangle and the cradle of flamenco (although Seville and Cadiz will protest that claim!)

Although in terms of distance Jerez isn't that far from the Costa del Sol (approx. 160km), the scenery and climate is quite different.  As we drew closer the landscape became much greener, reminding us a little of Cornwall.  We passed natural lakes full of wading birds and cattle fields - including those with fighting bulls; rolling green hills; the River Guadalete which runs into the ocean at nearby Puerta Santa Marial.  The Cadiz province has a different climate to the eastern Costa del Sol as it is on the Atlantic coast.  Generally, it is quite temperate and not dissimilar to that in the UK - though not as cold!  Jerez is 12km inland so is somewhat sheltered from the brunt of the weather but suffice to say a warmer jacket and boots are needed here in February - we're missing the sun already!

We arrived on Thursday having arranged for a lift as public transport to Jerez is slow, indirect and relatively expensive - we were glad of a direct journey after using the usually excellent Spanish public transport.  So, with heavy hearts and dark eyes from our "last night drinks" with our friends in Estepona, the journey went well but we started having second thoughts as we approached Jerez itself.  The outskirts of town were very run down.  Mick and I gave one another a knowing glance and considered turning back to Estepona but, on driving through the town itself we were glad we didn't give into impulse.  It is a very old, typically Andalucian town with mainly cobbled streets (very little tarmac) and lovely old buildings, churches and narrow streets. Indeed, our infamous Lonely Planet guide suggests that Jerez is Andalucia!

We checked into the quaint apartment in a 2-storey traditional apartment block with a roof terrace for panoramic views.   As I write I can hear the stirring las palmas (clapping) and footwork from the flamenco school opposite our apartment - ole! 

View from our roof terrace

We're here for a week or so and plan to see and experience all that Jerez has to offer.  We'll also visit a nearby picture-postcard pueblo blanco (white village) - Arcos de la Frontera - as well as explore Jerez.  We've already been invited to a private flamenco evening at a peña (private flamenco club) this weekend - a golden opportunity to see the real deal.  In the meantime we were recommended to go to the famed Tabanco el Pasaje, a tavern offering fabulous sherry and free flamenco shows.

On a non-Spanish note, we've also met the coach of the Jerez Rugby Union team whilst watching the Six Nations and have been invited to a match next weekend.  I didn't even know Spain had an RU team!  That's what we love about travel: you live and learn.

So, until the next posts I'll leave you with an image that captures something of the essence of Jerez.

Statue in honour of Jerez' Andalucian horse culture