A visit to Arcos de la Frontera

Tuesday 4 February 
Buenos dias to you all from Arcos de la Frontera, one of many pueblos blancos (white villages) in Spain but which is possibly the finest example of all that a pueblo blanco can offer: located on a high ridge with sheer precipices either side, surrounded by mountains, the River Guadalete and green pastures all of which can be viewed from a Parador - one of Spain's fine state buildings and available as luxury accommodation - there is a network all around Spain - something to add to your bucket list!

The breathtaking Arcos de la Frontera*

Arcos is located in the Cadiz province of Andalucia and is about 45 minutes inland from Jerez so it is an easy daytrip by regional bus.


A bit of history
As is the case in much of Spain, the Arabs left an indelible mark - you would after 800 years' rule!  Arcos, for a relatively small town, has its own fair share of Arabic architecture from its city walls, its former fortresses, the Andalusi Gardens and the castle which is an old military fortress. 

Other than its fabulous location on a high ridge with views across the valley - more a basin really (its much like the Devil's Punchbowl in Surrey, only bigger and, of course, more beautiful).

Fliss with her Farah Fawcett hairstyle @ the Mirador

The town's most noticeable landmark from afar is St Mary's Basilica which, according to decree by the Holy Tribune in 1764, was the oldest and most distinguished parish in Arcos.

St Mary's Basilica, Arcos de la Frontera

The Basilica is located in the main square, Plaza del Cabildo (Town Hall Square) along with the Town Hall itself with the castle in the background which is now a private residence and strictly out of bounds for tourists - fair enough - but how the other half live, eh?

Town hall with castle in the background

Also here is the Parador Casa del Corregidor, a reconstruction of a 16thC magistrate's house for more breathtaking vistas and a tasty tapas lunch!

Mick enjoying tapas at the Parador

And how better to walk off a light lunch than explore the ancient cobbled streets of this pretty town.  Here's some pics.

A typical street in Arcos

Views from atop the town over the River Guadalete

Just of the Plaza de Cabildo is La Iglesia de San Pedro (St Peter's church) built on a former Arab fortress.  It is listed in our Lonely Planet guide as one of Spain's prettiest little churches and on taking a peek it didn't disappoint.

The small but beautiful Iglesia de San Pedro

Fran, whose apartment we've rented in Jerez, recommended that we buy some artisan biscuits from the nuns at the Convent of the Mercedarias Nuns, founded in the early 16thC.  It was an interesting experience.  After ringing a bell for service you are served by a nun via a heavy, rotating hatch.  There is a list of biscuits for sale and I made my selection but my request fell upon deaf ears - there was no choice - it was almond biscuits or nada!  It all felt a little austere but the money goes towards their good work.  The biscuits are a blend of ground almonds, honey, egg, a little flour and spices - like a very light marzipan - delicious!

Arcos is also home to a permanent belen (nativity scene) which was lovely - built into a cave-like room by the Asociacion de Belenistas (Association of Belen makers).  Only in Spain eh?

So, we had a lovely day in Arcos and would recommend a day trip here - it really is beautiful.  Indeed, we met a lovely Canadian couple who are touring the White Towns Route of Cadiz - what a great trip that would be.  But, for now, I'll sign off and will update you with posts on our visit to the Gonzalez-Byass Bodega and sherry tasting (hiccup!) and the Royal School of Andaluz Equestrian Art.

* image by Wikimedia Commons