Hello to you from Cádiz, a small but perfectly formed city on the south-western (Atlantic) coast of Spain known as the Costa de la Luz (Coast of Light) and when the sun shines you can see why. There's a fabulous light here which brings artists flocking, trying to capture something of it on canvass. It is an upbeat city and is also known as the City that Smiles. With an array of narrow, single lane streets and alleyways and independent shops it puts us in mind of Pamplona.
The weather here is much like Britain - very changeable - though not as severe as the UK winter. Our hearts go out to the folk back home currently and consistently taking a battering from this Atlantic weather system. Winter in this part of the world brings grey skies, varying degrees of rain and winds. It can be four seasons in one day but not often less than 14 degrees so quite temperate and vibrant when the sun shines. The average annual temperature here is 18-20 degrees.
A potted history
Cádiz is the oldest, continually inhabited city in Europe, dating back to Phoenician times. There was a strong Roman presence, as well as Moorish and Christian. Being a seafaring city there is a strong nautical history too - Columbus sailed from here on two of his discovery voyages (the others being nearby Puerto Santa Maria and Sanlucar de la Barrameda). The Caribbean and Americas are the next land mass westwards and Cádiz benefited economically from its strategic position and resulting strong trade with the Americas. Indeed, in its Golden Age (18thC), Cádiz virtually monopolised all of Spain's trade.
Today, Cádiz is known for its seafood so we're looking forward to some gastronomic delights in the hallowed La Viña, a barrio (neighbourhood) known for fabulous seafood - perfect timing for Skipper's birthday this weekend. Also, you can't talk about Cádiz without mention of Carnaval: a 2-week extravaganza where anything goes! Carnaval dates back to the 17thC but it wasn't until the 19thC that it really gathered pace, first in the 30s - quickly prohibited for being to risqué - but reborn with gusto in the post-Franco era ('70s onwards). Groups wander the streets in wild fancy dress and sing about current affairs in Spain and Cádiz.
Tour de Cádiz
As ever, we didn't waste much time in discovering Cádiz. We took the 4km coastal route, starting off in overcast and rainy conditions, yet basking in the warm afternoon sunshine so the piccies will reflect this. You can see from these photos that Cádiz was a fortified city, so important was it strategically. Here's Castillo de San Sebastian which you reach via a long walkway.
As ever, we didn't waste much time in discovering Cádiz. We took the 4km coastal route, starting off in overcast and rainy conditions, yet basking in the warm afternoon sunshine so the piccies will reflect this. You can see from these photos that Cádiz was a fortified city, so important was it strategically. Here's Castillo de San Sebastian which you reach via a long walkway.
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| Skipper, happy to be by the sea again! |
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| View from Castillo San Sebastian towards Playa de la Victoria |
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| Balneario de la Palma, Caleta |
Next on our route was the Genovese Park, a semi-tropical garden (rain prevented any decent photos) but further along and close to our apartment is Alameda Apodaca.
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| Plaza de San Antonio and church of the same name |
We'd heard that the Museo de Cadiz was a bit special so off we went to learn a little of the city's long history, including two sarcophagi dating back to Phoenician times - in amazing condition. The Museo combines archaeology and fine art, as well as a collection of 19-20thC puppets which represent an important part of Cádiz culture - sadly they were being refurbished for Carnaval at the time of our visit so maybe another time.
Cádiz is also home to a huge cathedral. There's not much to report from the inside - its exterior is much more noteworthy. Here's a front view with its two towers and gold dome in background.
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| Cadiz's impressive Cathedral |
And here's Plaza San Juan with the ayuntamiento (town hall) in the background.
Here's a typical street in Cádiz. Note the colonial style architecture which reflects its cosmopolitan history - I love the balconies and ornate street lamps. No kerbs here! The apartments and shops open directly onto the street.
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| Plaza San Juan & ayuntamiento |
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| A typical street in Cádiz |
Saturday 15 February
Here's Puerta de Tierra, an important monument strategically (it separates the old city from the new), historically (for its role in fortifying and defending the old city) and culturally (it commemorates the 1812 constitution - known locally as La Pepa) which was Spain's first constitution - giving national sovereignty - groundbreaking in that it was very liberal.
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| Puerta Tierra, Cádiz |
Gastronomy
Cádiz is firmly on the gastronomy map, especially for seafood. A couple of friends (Charlotte from Whitstable and Cathy in the States - thanks girls!) plus my trusty Lonely Planet Guide recommended a few places, some of which we managed to fit into our busy eating schedule! Today was perfect for a bracing walk along the 7km Playa de La Victoria. We saw lots of surfers catching the waves and here's a view back to Cádiz.
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| View from Playa de la Victoria with cathedral in background |
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| Paella @ La Pepa |
Birthday Celebrations
Last, but by no means least, is that its Skipper's birthday this weekend. I won't tell you the figure involved - its scary! He still looks far younger than his years. Perfect timing in that we're on the Atlantic coast which makes him feel nostalgic for his transatlantic crossing all those years ago. Also, that Cádiz is renowned for fabulous seafood - Skipper's favourite! - so we're heading to La Viña barrio tonight - hallowed ground for seafood of any type. No doubt, we'll squeeze a glass of sherry in at Taberna Manzanilla - a traditional sherry bar - en route.
Once again have enjoyed all the sites and info,the photos are good,looking forward to the Flamenco and horse riding
ReplyDeleteLove mumxx