Flamenco in the Cádiz province

I bet you thought I'd forgotten this post but - no - not in a million years!  You can't visit this part of Spain - known as the cradle of flamenco - and not have a looksie - simply a case of saving the best 'til last.  Saying that, we'll soon visit Seville so I might have to revise this post!

A bit of history
The origins of flamenco have been lost to time but it is generally thought to have arrived in Spain with the Roma people (gitanos) and later fused with music and lyrics from North Africa.  Early flamenco was known as cante jondo (deep song) and was the expression of marginalised groups of society, often singing about their homeland, poverty and injustice.  It has since evolved into more upbeat forms - solea, bulería and alegría.  Early flamenco is thought to have taken shape in Western Andalucia: the Seville-Jerez-Cadiz triangle and is why we waited until now to experience what is considered to be the most authentic flamenco. 

Flamenco songs (coplas) are performed to flourishes of guitar which often fill gaps between the singer's (cantador's) verses while dancers (bailadores) interpret the music and lyrics through movement.  Percussion is provided by clapping, foot-tapping or castanets.  Flamenco continues to evolve today in the form of flamenco fusion which combines flamenco with jazz, rock, blues, rap, Brazilian and Cuban rhythms.

Jerez - home of La Bulería
You may recall that no sooner had we arrived in Jerez than it was recommended by the lovely Ellie in the tourist office to try flamenco at the renowned Taberna El Pasaje - a sherry bar where aficionados congregate to enjoy a tipple whilst watching flamenco - up close and personal.  The bulería - a more upbeat answer to Seville's solea - was certainly impressive -  Rocio's voice was so powerful - here's a reminder:

Ellie also recommended we go to Peña La Bulería - a private club where locals gather to enjoy the real deal.  As well as known artists, the peñas feature new artists.  No frills here - just raw music and singing.   We arrived at the taberna which was clearly a shrine to flamenco with wall to wall pictures of some flamenco greats.  After an hour or so in the bar sampling sherry (the Oloroso seco was lovely!) and eating Jerez tapas (bread, tomato, chorizo, olive oil & herbs - all mixed together) we were ushered to the performance area at the rear of the building.  Two guys featured today: Manuel with his powerful voice and the gorgeous(!) Fernando with his sublime guitar playing.  Here's a couple of clips:

Cádiz  - home of La Alegría

The gaditanos (Cadiz folk) have developed their own unique style - alegría - which is more light-hearted than Jerez's bulería.  We wanted to sample flamenco puro as opposed to a more touristy type show and bought tickets for the show at La Cava, very close to our apartment in the Mentidero barrio (one of two flamenco barrios in Cádiz) where we were treated to 2 hours of flamenco.  First up was the singer and guitarist (some of whose lyrics I actually understood!), followed by un bailador (male dancer), las bailadoras (female dancers) and then all three together accompanied always by the guitarist and singer.  It was a brilliant show which captured the drama, energy and passion that makes flamenco unique.  We had a brilliant night but sadly we could only take piccies.

Sadly photos don't capture the essence of flamenco but believe us when we say that it was energetic, dynamic, fun and very moving!

We hope you enjoyed the post - I've tried to give you a taster of different styles and elements of flamenco.  We know it isn't for everyone and that we, as onlookers, can only pretend to 'get it'.  Some Spaniards we have met say they don't get it at all - and they're native to the country!  In any case, it has reignited my interest in flamenco so I will be looking into that when we get back to the UK.  So, until the next post from Seville - keeeep dancing!

Cádiz - Birthday Celebrations in Puerto Santa Maria

Saturday 15 February
Hello all, just a quick note to say that we had a change of plan for Skipper's birthday.  The restaurants we fancied going to in La Viña were shut and ones that were open were bar type arrangements with outdoor seating and, as it was raining heavily, we decided to go out tomorrow - on Mick's actual birthday.  We checked the forecast and a good day was on the cards which meant the ferry would be running and would give Mick his first taste of boating since leaving Frontignan all those months ago.  So we settled for a home cooked spag bol, a good bottle of wine and a DVD instead!

Sunday 16 February - the auspicious day!
Well, Mick's turned 56 today and I still don't think he really looks it - only the salt & pepper hair colouring hints at the big figure!  We decided to spend the day in nearby Puerto Santa Maria - another town on the sherry triangle and from where Colombus sailed on two of his four discovery voyages.  We took the train there to maximise our time there (the ferry runs a very limited service at weekends) and on arrival, this appeared to be the most run down of the towns on the sherry triangle.  We didn't let that put us off though as we had a good restaurant in mind and this trip has taught us never to judge a book by its cover!

We passed the town square - Plaza de España - and its amazing old church - Iglesia Mayor Prioral built between 15th & 18th centuries and home to nesting cranes - and what a strange sound they make!

Iglesia Mayor Prioral, Puerto Santa Maria

We also passed the impressive bull ring which, unfortunately, was closed as it is low season. Built in 1880 it is apparently one of Spain's most beautiful and important bull rings.  Another time maybe ... 

Plaza de Toros, Puerto Santa Maria

From here, it was only a short walk to the nearby River Guadalete and a string of riverside cafes.  We fancied eating at Bar Santa Maria, always packed with locals apparently as it serves fabulous fish.  It was simple to choose from an impressive menu - grilled seafood platter for 2!  We wanted something a little different from the usual fried fayre that is so popular in these parts and it was cooked to perfection with a big salad - delicious!  Good food always comes from really fresh ingredients, cooked to perfection and not embellished with anything too fussy - just good quality oil, a bit of sea salt, a slice of lemon and a bit of parsley.  Mick had a beer and I tried the local white wine which was rather drinkable!

Lunch at the fabulous Bar Santa Maria

We couldn't hang around too much (there wasn't much more to do and see to be fair) and the ferry was due so we upped sticks and got the mid-afternoon ferry back to Cádiz.  Conditions were perfect and Skipper was grinning ear to ear - always at his happiest when on a boat - even a ferry!

Skipper on the aft deck

And here's a piccie of the moorings we passed with a decent amount of sailing yachts.

Riverside moorings - Pto Santa Maria

And that pretty much sums up Mick's birthday.  I couldn't have wished for a more fitting day for him - we both really enjoyed our short trip to Puerto Santa Maria.  We'll be returning to Estepona shortly to catch up with friends and get a bit of sun which has been in short supply on the west coast sadly.  Then back to Seville for the trip home northwards - ho, hum!

So, until the next post, over & out me hearties! xx

Cádiz - horse riding in Sanlucar de Barrameda

Friday 14 February 
Happy Valentine's Day!  You may remember in the dim and distant past that we tried to go riding in France for my birthday but, on arrival, we found the stables weren't up to scratch - so, disappointingly, we ditched that idea, feeling sure we'd find somewhere further down the line.  We tried on a couple more occasions - again in France and once in northern Spain to no avail but, today, that day arrived - in the the far southwest of Spain - in the town of Sanlucar de Barrameda just north of Cádiz.  We happened upon this when making general enquiries activities in Cádiz tourist office and it seemed to be a viable option - weather permitting!  So with a dry forecast for Friday 14th - we booked it - at last!  

The stables were at Club Ecuestre Arboleda, a really good set up and home to around 40 Andalucian horses, some of which were being prepared for a forthcoming show.  It was a bit of a menagerie with free range hens, cats and dogs roaming around.  There were also enclosures for turkeys, mules and reindeer - they all looked cared for so we were happy with our choice.  Talk about save the best 'til last eh?  We didn't fancy anything too challenging so we had a nice gentle walk and trot along the beach - heaven!

Fliss on Emeralda, Sanlucar beach

Mick on Domingo

We're just about ready for this weekend's horse show!

We had a wonderful time and the horses were brilliant although a bit tricky to hold Emeralda back from overtaking - like the rider eh?  I could feel she really wanted to gallop but it wouldn't have been with any control from me so we just settled for nice trotting, etc.

We had nearly 2 hours on the horses by the time we arrived back at the stables and after a graceful dismount (more elegant than my mount!) and with slightly wobbly legs, we thought it was time for lunch in the Sanlucar's centre - another little town on the famed sherry triangle (the other two towns being Jerez de la Frontera and Puerto Santa Maria).  There is no better place to eat than Casa Balbina - recommended by friends and my Lonely Planet - and we weren't disappointed!  It was absolutely packed with locals and I wish I could've filmed a discreet video to capture the energy but, alas.   We feasted on a lovely veggie tortilla (omelette), seafood salad, tortilla de camarones (shrimp lightly fried with parsley) and seafood stuffed peppers - yum!  I don't know how we resisted the jamon though ...

The brilliant Casa Balbina

Casa Balbina is in the lovely Plaza de Cabildo (town square) and here's a piccie - Casa Balbina is in the background.  As you can see the sun was well and truly with us by lunchtime.

Plaza de Cabildo, Sanlucar

Whilst here we thought we'd have a quick look around.  Sanlucar is famed for manzanilla sherry - a dry white sherry though not as dry as fino (Tio Pepe) and you can't walk far without seeing a bodega or set of barrels advertising its famous wines. It is located on the estuary of the Atlantic and River Guadalquivir which goes directly to Seville so, historically, it is well placed and grew wealthy from its trade with Seville.

Roll out the barrels!

Sanlucar also boasts a lovely restored 15thC castle from where you get some lovely panoramic views across the town, across the Atlantic and up the River Guadalquivir towards Seville.

King of the Castle with Atlantic in background

View from atop Castillo de Santiago - River Guadalquivir in background

Bajo de Guia is a short walk away and is famed for its waterside collection of seafood restaurants and tapas bars - we couldn't resist nipping into Casa Bigote for a couple  more tapitas - this time chocos (chunks of squid), boquerones (anchovies) and local gambas blancas (white prawns) - all lightly fried (the Cádiz province is obsessed with fried seafood) and served with a glass of chilled manzanilla - fabulous with seafood.  I think prefer it to the uber-dry Tio Pepe.

Eating again - this time at Casa Bigote - cheers!

We had a short walk further down Bajo de Guia - gotta work off that seafood! - and we came across this amazing restaurant/bar.  Check the huge portrait window and the reflection of the palm tree in its tinted glazing - really effective.  Whitstable's Preston Parade would kill for this view!

So, that sums up our visit to Sanlucar - and what a perfect Valentine's Day it turned out to be.  It was wonderful, at last, to go riding - and you don't get any better than the  Andalucians - the best things definitely came to those that waited!   We'd recommend a visit or short stay in Sanlucar - it is a lovely little town with a nice feel to it and is easy to get to from Cádiz and Jerez.  So, we hope you've enjoyed the post and we'll write soon with our flamenco news!  Over & out for now. xx

Hola de Cádiz

Wednesday 12 February
Hello to you from Cádiz, a small but perfectly formed city on the south-western (Atlantic) coast of Spain known as the Costa de la Luz (Coast of Light) and when the sun shines you can see why.  There's a fabulous light here which brings artists flocking, trying to capture something of it on canvass.  It is an upbeat city and is also known as the City that Smiles.  With an array of narrow, single lane streets and alleyways and independent shops it puts us in mind of Pamplona. 

The weather here is much like Britain - very changeable - though not as severe as the UK winter.  Our hearts go out to the folk back home currently and consistently taking a battering from this Atlantic weather system.  Winter in this part of the world brings grey skies, varying degrees of rain and winds.  It can be four seasons in one day but not often less than 14 degrees so quite temperate and vibrant when the sun shines.  The average annual temperature here is 18-20 degrees.


A potted history

Cádiz is the oldest, continually inhabited city in Europe, dating back to Phoenician times.  There was a strong Roman presence, as well as Moorish and Christian.  Being a seafaring city there is a strong nautical history too - Columbus sailed from here on two of his discovery voyages (the others being nearby Puerto Santa Maria and Sanlucar de la Barrameda).  The Caribbean and Americas are the next land mass westwards and Cádiz  benefited economically from its strategic position and resulting strong trade with the Americas.  Indeed, in its Golden Age (18thC), Cádiz virtually monopolised all of Spain's trade. 

Today, Cádiz is known for its seafood so we're looking forward to some gastronomic delights in the hallowed La Viña, a barrio (neighbourhood) known for fabulous seafood - perfect timing for Skipper's birthday this weekend.  Also, you can't talk about Cádiz without mention of Carnaval: a 2-week extravaganza where anything goes!  Carnaval dates back to the 17thC but it wasn't until the 19thC that it really gathered pace, first in the 30s - quickly prohibited for being to risqué - but reborn with gusto in the post-Franco era ('70s onwards).  Groups wander the streets in wild fancy dress and sing about current affairs in Spain and Cádiz.

Tour de Cádiz
As ever, we didn't waste much time in discovering Cádiz.  We took the 4km coastal route, starting off in overcast and rainy conditions, yet basking in the warm afternoon sunshine so the piccies will reflect this.  You can see from these photos that Cádiz was a fortified city, so important was it strategically.  Here's Castillo de San Sebastian which you reach via a long walkway. 

Skipper, happy to be by the sea again!

Here's a couple of views from the castle itself, back to the city:

View from Castillo San Sebastian towards Playa de la Victoria

Balneario de la Palma, Caleta

Next on our route was the Genovese Park, a semi-tropical garden (rain prevented any decent photos) but further along and close to our apartment is Alameda Apodaca.

By this time we'd worked up a bit of an appetite so we headed back to base via one of Cadiz's many squares, Plaza de San Antonio with its beautiful church.

Plaza de San Antonio and church of the same name

Thursday 13 February
We'd heard that the Museo de Cadiz was a bit special so off we went to learn a little of the city's long history, including two sarcophagi dating back to Phoenician times - in amazing condition.  The Museo combines archaeology and fine art, as well as a collection of 19-20thC puppets which represent an important part of Cádiz culture - sadly they were being refurbished for Carnaval at the time of our visit so maybe another time. 

Cádiz is also home to a huge cathedral.  There's not much to report from the inside - its exterior is much more noteworthy.  Here's a front view with its two towers and gold dome in background.

Cadiz's impressive Cathedral

And here's Plaza San Juan with the ayuntamiento (town hall) in the background.

Plaza San Juan & ayuntamiento

Here's a typical street in Cádiz.  Note the colonial style architecture which reflects its cosmopolitan history - I love the balconies and ornate street lamps.  No kerbs here!  The apartments and shops open directly onto the street.

A typical street in Cádiz

Saturday 15 February
Here's Puerta de Tierra, an important monument strategically (it separates the old city from the new), historically (for its role in fortifying and defending the old city) and culturally (it commemorates the 1812 constitution - known locally as La Pepa) which was Spain's first constitution - giving national sovereignty - groundbreaking in that it was very liberal. 

Puerta Tierra, Cádiz

Gastronomy

Cádiz is firmly on the gastronomy map, especially for seafood.  A couple of friends (Charlotte from Whitstable and Cathy in the States - thanks girls!) plus my trusty Lonely Planet Guide recommended a few places, some of which we managed to fit into our busy eating schedule! Today was perfect for a bracing walk along the 7km Playa de La Victoria.  We saw lots of surfers catching the waves and here's a view back to Cádiz.

View from Playa de la Victoria with cathedral in background

After our walk we had built up an appetite and paella at La Pepa - a renowned arrocería (rice restaurant) was a must.  The seafood here is uber-fresh and we tucked into a delicious paella de mariscos (shellfish paella).

Paella @ La Pepa

Birthday Celebrations
Last, but by no means least, is that its Skipper's birthday this weekend.  I won't tell you the figure involved - its scary!  He still looks far younger than his years.  Perfect timing in that we're on the Atlantic coast which makes him feel nostalgic for his transatlantic crossing all those years ago.  Also, that Cádiz is renowned  for fabulous seafood - Skipper's favourite! - so we're heading to  La Viña barrio tonight - hallowed ground for seafood of any type.  No doubt, we'll squeeze a glass of sherry in at Taberna Manzanilla - a traditional sherry bar - en route. 

So that sums up our time in Cádiz - sorry its taken so long to publish this post but we've had a busy time here - lots going on!  See separate posts on flamenco and - wait for it - horse riding!

Jerez - the beautiful Andalucian horses

Thursday 6 February
One of the reasons we chose to stay in Jerez was the opportunity to see the Andalucian horse show at the Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian Art.  There's something very special about these horses - their elegance, poise, colouring and their ability to 'dance'.

I did a bit of research before writing this post (sources: www.andalusianhorses.org.uk and www.theequinest.com/breeds/andalusian-horse/) as I wanted to learn a little about the history of this breed.  I learned that it is likely it originates from the Arabian horse given that Spain has a very strong Moorish past.  That would certainly explain its agility and athleticism.  When crossed with the more docile, yielding nature of the native Andalucian horse this created what has become known as the modern Andalucian - with the slight frame, curved neck, flowing mane and tail, longer nose and ability to learn tricks.  Certainly their agility would be needed for the corridas (bull fights).  What I didn't realise, though, is that the Andalucian comes in various colours: white, dapple grey, chestnut and black.

During the many wars throughout Spain between Moors, Christians and inter-fighting among each other, the Andalucian horses were stolen or, worse, killed - almost to the point of extinction - but one herd was saved from destruction by an order of monks called the Carthusians (and is why they're also known as Carthusian horses).  The working monastery is still in Jerez today and is considered to be one of the great monuments in the Cadiz province.  With the monks on their side the herd was nurtured and eventually used to return the breed to healthy numbers.  Today, the breed is increasingly sought after. 

As you know we love and respect animals so we had mixed views about how the horses come to 'dance': do they have natural ability through their breeding - resulting in a slight, agile build; do they want to do these moves or are they forced through fear and cruelty, etc.; and, if the latter, would our ticket purchase support any negative treatment of these beautiful animals?  Eventually, we agreed that we had to see for ourselves.   As you'd expect, the School and its grounds were really impressive - only the best for these horses.

The show ring in splendid grounds

A horse outside the state of the art stables

In addition to training sessions which are open to the public, there is an opportunity to visit the Museum and working saddlery.  The highlight for most, though, is the weekly official show where the horses perform a series of tricks, kicks and steps to classical music.  So, cameras at the ready and anticipation mounting, we were disappointed to learn that photos and films were not allowed.  We could understand flashes might distract the horses but we thought the odd film wouldn't cause any disruption - alas we were wrong.  So, unfortunately, much of the show went unrecorded.

To give you an idea: the show started with ridden horses that walked and marched - under absolute control of the rider - changing direction, walking sidewards, backwards, taken from standing to gallop and abrupt halt, etc.  Amazing.  Next came two ridden horses doing much the same but interweaving these steps with one another.

This was followed by a slightly disturbing part of the show: six horses - all of which jumped, kicked and reared up (for about 10 seconds) individually under the control of their horseman.  We could see the horses' muscles straining  and they were perspiring - they didn't look comfortable and, of course in nature, they would do this - briefly - if they were threatened.  All of this continued while another horse was tethered to 2 central posts which trotted consistently - unaided or unprompted - with the rhythm of the music - we wondered if he happy to do so or was it simply drummed into him?

A brief interval followed and the horses came out leading various carriages: a 1-horse carriage; a 2-horse carriage; and a 4-horse carriage - all of which interweaved with one another in the arena - it really was a masterclass in horse and carriage control.

The finale was a group of 8 white horses whose routine involved the lovely trotting and walking we see in dressage.  They continuously walked in parallel, crossed one another and turned in perfect time with the music.  Really graceful and elegant - some were really lifting and pointing their legs and hooves with their necks curved downwards.  I hope this film shows you some of what they do - it's all I could manage without attracting too much attention from the omnipresent security bods!

So, that's an outline of our visit.  Would we recommend it?  Yes, but if you love animals be prepared to feel uneasy about some of the routines.  But then we figured the horses probably don't know any other way, that they get the absolute best of everything else (food, massage, etc)., and if our euros go towards giving them the best possible life then it was money well spent.  The choice, as they say, is yours!

We met some lovely people here: a Canadian couple who were on holiday in Jerez and visiting family; and a couple of Swiss girls - Juliana and Stephanie - who were visiting for the day from Seville.  We went on for tapas and sherry with Juliana and Stephanie at La Cruz Blanca - another ticked off from our 'tapas bars to visit' list - it was great food and enjoyable company.  After lunch, we said our goodbyes as they had some more sight-seeing to do.  Hello to you all if you're reading and email me when you can.

Monday 10 February
Well, sadly that wraps up our time in Jerez.  We have had a great time here and would recommend it to anyone interested in sherry, horses or flamenco.  It is also well located for day trips to nearby towns of interest.  We have been treated well - the locals here are lovely - really expressive in that Andalucian way.  We love nothing more than to watch and listen over our cafe con leche.  And to mark our last day here, we're eating at Bar Juanito - home to the best tapas in Jerez - so we'll sign of by saying !que aproveche! (bon appetit).  We'll update you with our Cadiz news shortly. 

Jerez - a sip of sherry at a local bodega

Wednesday 5 February
Well, we couldn't visit Jerez without visiting a bodega could we?  But which one?!  There are around 20 here in Jerez but, being a Span-o-phile - and thanks to an episode of Michael Portillo's train journey around Spain (in which he meets his old friend, Sr Gonzalez) it just had to be the Gonzalez-Byass Bodega located in the town centre.

The name Gonzalez-Byass arose out of a very successful, Anglo-Spanish alliance in 1835.  Together they became known worldwide for its Tio Pepe brand - a fine, dry white sherry.  Today, the company is run by the fifth generation of this sherry dynasty.   However, it is a very British drink.  Sir Francis Drake started it all in 1587 when he sacked Cadiz and brought over 3000 barrels to the UK.  The British soon got the taste for it and to keep up with demand a new industry was born through entrepreneurs like Harvey (from Bristol), Sandeman (from Scotland), Terry (from Eire) and Osborne (from Exeter).  Their bodegas are dotted around Jerez - interesting to see these household names alive and kicking.

Today, Gonzalez Byass exports worldwide with Britian being the main buyer - still!  It is working to bring market sherry to the wider, younger market - watch this space.  Interestingly, it bought the Croft Original brand in recent years - their pale cream sherry is delicious!  For more info, see their UK website - http://www.gonzalezbyassuk.com/.

Our guide, Maribel, walked us through the history of the bodega and the process of turning the grapes into sherry - and brandy!  Essentially, two grapes used: the palomino for the drier, lighter wines and the Pedro-Ximenez for the darker, sweeter wines.  We started off looking at the brandy distillery - the aroma as you walk in is distinctive.  Their Leprano brandy goes through a distillation process and is left for 15 years in American oak casks which have been used formerly for the sherry so the brandy gets the flavour and colouring of the sherry.

The brandy distillery

Next, Maribel took us on to the sherry bodegas which are like cathedrals: cool, dark and quiet places where the sherry can 'rest' and age.  I can't remember the duration each of the sherries is left to mature - sorry! One of the sherries is called Apostoles and in this room were 12 smaller barrels and the large central one which is called the Jesus barrel, all of which used to hold the Apostoles sherry but which are now empty - the casks have a 90-year life.

The fabulous Jesus barrel - approx. 12 feet in diameter

Also here are casks - which do contain sherry - that have been signed by famous visitors including Bobby Charlton, Ayrton Senna, Fernando Alonso, John Malkovich, Roger Moore, the British and Spanish Royal families, Orson Welles, Winston Churchill and Picasso.

A small section of the Gonzalez Byass fan club

We had a tasting afterwards with a lovely Finnish couple and the consensus was: Manzanilla or Fino for those that like dry white wine - however, these two sherries are super dry - served chilled and best enjoyed with food (Tio Pepe is the Gonzalez Byass trademark fino).  Alternatively, the medium dry Oloroso seco, Amontillado or Palo Cortado are not quite so dry and slightly darker.  Then we get into the sweeter sherries: pale cream and medium; or the rich, sweet desserts wines - Moscatel or the luxurious Pedro Ximenez.  We liked the Oloroso and Pale Cream - very drinkable!  Interesting to learn that the Spanish drink their sherry as an aperitif or, better still, combined with food.

So, that's a round-up of our trip to the bodega.  We hope it brings you some idea of what sherry is about and that you try these lovely wines for yourself - you don't have to wait until Christmas though!