Day 2 - more cultural learnings from Tangier

Friday 10 January - Private Tour
We awoke at 0540 to the sound of the Imam calling for early morning prayer - quite a nice sound once you know what it is.  And after a lovely buffet breakfast to include freshly cooked pancakes & honey - care of a lovely Berber woman - it was time for business.  We were met by Hisham, our excellent guide for the day.  He wanted to show us the real Tangier - not the touristy version we were shown yesterday.  He was the perfect guide - striking the balance between the right amount of information and answering questions; he was polite and attentive to our safety and comfort - we never felt at risk at any time - in fact, the Moroccans were really kind and welcoming.  He guided us through the lesser seen parts of the Medina and its colourful markets, shops and cafes.

A beautiful doorway - what lies beyond?

Ceramics - my weakness!

Anyone for an olive?

How market stalls used to be in the UK

We stopped for coffees and mint tea at a cafe overlooking the Grand Socco.

Overlooking the Grand Socco

Hisham with the cultural attaches outside the cafe

View of city from Mandoubia Gardens

After another lovely lunch it was time to shop!  We ventured into the Medina via the Petit Socco and found a lovely bag for Katie for which we successfully haggled - a necessary part of the buying experience - not to is an insult.  It doesn't come easily for us British who are used to paying the price shown on the ticket but we got it at just under 60% of the starting price.

Then onto another souk, this time belonging to some of Hisham's family.  We were invited to have mint tea - a sign of hospitality - and we were left to look around this fabulous place - filled to the brim with jewellery, carpets, rugs, ceramics and antiques.  Sadly, there was nothing on our want list as we have to transport these things - there really was no obligation to buy so so we left empty handed - another time...

View from atop the souk - minaret in background

Then onto a Mohammed, an expert weaver who was delighted to demonstrate his skills.  Apologies for the orientation issue - I don't have the software to turn it at the moment.

Mohammed showed us some kaftans and head-scarves and briefly transformed into Fatima Cous-Cous and Aisha Tagine.  Mick was offered 400 camels for me - he was tempted!

Answers please on a postcard!

We spent the rest of the afternoon taking in the sometimes not so pleasant sights.  Living conditions may come as a shock to the 21stC European eye.  Running water is at a premium - many people still draw water from municipal wells dotted around the city.

I suddenly don't feel so thirsty

You'd have to love thy neighbour being this close!

A rooftop view of city living in Tangier

After nearly 7 hours walking, with weary legs we headed back to the hotel, past the not so Gran Teatro Cervantes (Grand Cervantes Theatre).  This photo sums up our view of Tangier - its hard to imagine this grand old dame in her prime - dated 1913.

Gran Teatro Cervantes

So, to sum up? Over a cup of tea in the sanctuary of our hotel we agreed that Tangier really is another world: an exciting, vibrant city which still has an edge and one which would take many a 21stC European out of their comfort zone.  No health and safety here! 

We were shocked too, to see so many decaying buildings and rubbish everywhere (plus the accompanying odour) - not helped by the fact that there were no street bins - only the occasional chap sweeping the streets which would be like painting the Forth bridge!  However, we saw hundreds of satellite dishes and mobile phones so quite modern in some ways.  Education is free and many Moroccans - like any good parent - are striving for a better future for their children.  As such, we were asked not to give any child street vendors money as it would detract them from getting an education. 

On reflection, we're glad we visited Tangier but, equally, we were all looking forward to getting back to Spain which isn't a foregone conclusion, even with a ticket and passport, so we were relieved to board the Seacat for Tarifa.  It was a relief to breathe fresh air and to appreciate clean streets - a reminder of what we take for granted in the UK.  It really was an eye-opener and has made us all very grateful for what we have as a general standard of living.

So, if you fancy a cultural experience, some souk shopping, meeting good people and enjoying North African food we'd recommend a short trip to Tangier, preferably with a package tour as you'd easily get lost in the labyrinthine streets of Tangier.  But be prepared to be shocked and go with your eyes wide open - there aren't too many opportunities in the increasingly globalised world for a true culture shock quite so close to you doorstep - and Tangier is one of them! 

I'll sign off now and write to you soon with more news from Estepona and surrounds - plus we've a day trip to Gibraltar to come.  Over & out for now!