Day 1 - Cultural Learnings in Tangier

Salam from Tangier!  We've just enjoyed a 2-night trip to Tangier, the tantalisingly nearby gateway to the African continent.  It would not be top on our list of places to visit from the UK but when you're a mere 14km from Africa it becomes tempting.  We also knew it would be a cultural experience which, for us, is one of the main benefits of travel.  Our friends Ken & Katie found an excellent package deal and, whilst we knew it would be a bit of a whistle-stop, touristy experience, it would give us a chance to choose what we wanted to do and see on day 2 with a private guide.  So without further ado here is an outline of our ...' cultural learnings in Tangier for make benefit the glorious UK tourist...' (remember the title of Borat's brilliant film about Kazakhstan?)

Tangier - a potted history
Tangier is old, its native tribe being the Berber.  Later the Phoenicians arrived, followed by the Carthegenians, Romans, the Moors, Arabs and Jews and, later, the Europeans (I think I've got that right!)  It is a truly international city with a rich and varied history, seen through its many landmarks, archaeology, churches, mosques and signs! 

That most international of brands

There are many quarters/barrios in the city: French, Spanish, Jewish, Portuguese, English and American.  Streets are named to reflect this, including Latin American country names.  French and Arabic are taught here although many Moroccans understand Spanish given its proximity to the Iberian peninsula.  America considered it to be such a strategic city that in 1821 it purchased its first consulate here, known as the American Legation.  There is also St Andrews Church, yet it is known as the English church.  Quite interesting for Katie who is Scottish.  It seems to be a city in which people live together - an integrated, multicultural city.  The Europeans finally left the city in 1947 since when it has been the independent and part of the Kingdom of Morocco.  Development is underway here, with a new port and airport being built, a new business area as well as 5* hotels so it will be interesting to see Tangier in a decade to see how it has changed.


Thursday 9 January - 1 day whistle-stop tour
Our coach whisked us off to the nearby port of Tarifa - the southernmost tip of Spain - and where the Seacat was waiting for us.  Africa is so close at this point that it feels as though you can almost touch it (alas, no photos allowed from the port).  All hatches were closed as the Gibraltar Strait was a bit choppy, being the point where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet.  Currents and winds make it tricky to navigate - you can't just go straight across - so our journey took 45 minutes as opposed to 30 minutes.  As you approach Tangiers the iconic image of a city built into the hills becomes visible - again, photos were not allowed.


On the African side we boarded another coach and were whizzed around the perimeter of Tangier and taken for an optional camel ride - meet Fatima - that's the name of the camel by the way!

Can you lip read?

Next was a walking tour around Tangier, starting at the entry point of the Kasbah - a walled city.  This old cobbled entrance led us through a labyrinth of the Medina (the old part) with its narrow streets, shops, old buildings, houses, mosques and koran schools.

Then onto a souk - a three-storey mecca of the material world.  You can buy all kinds of wonderful things here: jewellery, bags, furniture, carpets, ceramics, etc.  We were seated and given a 'no-obligation' talk about the carpet-making.  In Morocco, women hand-make the carpets, each being unique and telling a story about Moroccan life.  Made from lambswool, camel wool/hair, silk they are works of art and can take up to a year or so to finish the larger rugs. Coloured with natural dyes they don't fade and can be easily cleaned with water and soap.  I was seriously tempted to buy one but we are homeless at the moment!

A selection of rugs: royal, traditional and Berber

After all that walking and fending off the persistent street vendors (known locally as mosquitoes!) it was time for lunch: a 4-course meal of soup, keema, cous-cous with chicken and braised vegetables and baklava, washed down with Moroccan whisky (or mint tea).  Morocco is a Muslim country but one in which citizens are free to choose how and when they worship.  Alcohol is allowed but is served at the discretion of the establishment - fortunately the boys were able to enjoy a beer here.

A delicious lunch was served

After the fires were restoked it was time for more touring the streets and a visit to a herbal pharmacy - of great interest to me as a homeopath.  And I couldn't resist buying some Arnica oil and the latest darling of the natural cosmetic industry, Argan oil.

A friendly herbalist

Pictures can't really capture the energy, noise and life of the streets of Tangier - but here's a typical street scene.

Typical street scene

Our hotel, the Chellah, is recommended by the Lonely Planet - always a good thing.  The Chellah was an elegant old lady, built in colonial-style hotel but which was a little tired and neglected in places.  However, it was clean, comfortable and safe - much better than I expected!  We were shocked, though, that no alcohol was allowed on the premises, especially as it had such a lovely reception and bar area, as well as cards tables, where you could relax with a drink.  Still, when in Rome and all that ...

The reception area, Hotel Chellah

So, that's a round-up of day 1 of our whistle-stop tour of Tangier - I'll write separately about Day 2 as that's much more about the real Tangier.  Until then, beslama! (bye)