Friday, 24 January 2014

Gibraltar

Hello to you all from Gibraltar, that bastion of Britishness at the southern tip of Iberian peninsular.  Gib wasn't originally on our radar but it is so close as to be touchable.  So, with time on our hands and a tempting 1-day package deal we headed off to the Rock with a mix of a dozen other European tourists.

Tarifa (right); Gibraltar (centre) and Mt Musa, Tangier (left)

A mini history & stats
Gibraltar is a jagged piece of jurassic limestone, the result of a massive volcanic eruption 200 million years ago - wow!  At its peak it measures 426m.  It was once woodland but was cleared for fuel during the Great Siege (1783) and the top area is now a nature reserve.  There are 32 miles of tunnels, all belonging to the MOD, two of which (the Great Siege Tunnels and WWII Tunnels) are open to the public.

Today, Gibraltar is a British Overseas Territory and is pretty much self-sufficient.  It has no unemployment.  It has sterling as a currency and has an education system along the lines of that in Britain.  The Gibraltarians are bilingual being taught English at school but Spanish is the native tongue.  Quite often the locals start speaking in English and finish in Spanish - and I heard that in practise - strange!  There are 10,000 Spanish working on the Rock at present.  The Gibraltarians have a mixed heritage - Jewish, Genoese, Spanish, Arabic, Portuguese and English.  The current population is around 30,000 - a mix of Gibraltairan and other European folk.  Today it appears to be an integrated, multicultural society.

Once over the frontier at La Linea de la Concepcion - only fully reopened in 1986 - we changed to a smaller minibus to negotiate the hairpin bends on the island.  The first thing we noticed were the road signs - all in English and with royal or military connections (e.g. Winston Churchill Ave, Cannon Road, Queensway, Reclamation Road).  We also saw British Police in the usual uniform.  Cars bear GBZ numberplates and are driven on the right-hand side.

Nelson at the South Bastion - could you get more British?
Where better to start than the top: we whizzed up to the peak for some aerial views.

Boys and guns - Tangier in background
The highest point of Gibraltar (426m) with Mosque in foreground
Next up was a visit to St Michael's Cave which has fascinated people since Roman times.  The cave was once believed to be bottomless and gave rise to the story that it was connected to Africa via a 15 miles of subterranean passageway and through which the Barbary Apes (which are actually monkeys) originally arrived into Europe.  More recently, the cave was prepared to provide an emergency hospital during WWII, but was never used as such. It has some pretty impressive stalactites and stalagmites.


That's a funny looking stalagmite!
On the way out we bumped into the monkeys.

This one was a bit shy ...

But these two weren't!
After this we had some free time to look around the town.  The Main Street featured a few UK high street names: Next, WH Smith, Holland & Barrett, BHS and, of course, that rock of UK retail - M&S!  The bargains here though are spirits and ciggies with tobacco being half the price of that in Spain (which is already half the price of UK tobacco) so a real bargain for smokers.  There isn't much of a town really - its very small and the hub is the Main Street or Casemates Square.  We also passed the Trafalgar Cemetery and watched the Changing of the Guards.

Time for lunch and we really fancied some pub grub and the Cannon Pub was offering an irresistible pie & pint deal (being a lady I chose a g&t!)  After that it was back to the coach for the trip home.  We had a good day and are really pleased we visited the Rock.  We didn't get a chance to go into the tunnels but that could be something to do if we return.  So we'll leave you with a couple of shots.

The Spanish South Bastion Wall & icon of Britishness
But this is will be our enduring memory of Gib:


So, blog fans, our next post will be from Jerez de la Frontera so until next week, keep well and thanks for following us. xx

Wednesday, 22 January 2014

Taking it easy in Estepona

Hello to everyone from Estepona - a lovely pueblo on the southern Costa del Sol.  We're an hour south of Malaga, 45 minutes from Gibraltar and an hour from Tarifa, Spain's southernmost town.  We've been resting up here during January as it is our best shot at some late winter warmth and sunshine.  As you'd imagine from the region's name the sun shines most days and the regular temperature is 17-19 degrees but it has rained and is often quite breezy - occasionally really windy - good news for those of you who are sick of the sun-filled posts from us!

Estepona was established and named in the 15thC but it is much older.  Indeed, the Phoenicians, Romans and Arabs have all left their mark on the town.  It is still a working Spanish town, historically involved in agriculture, fishing and stock-breeding.  Fishing is still a big deal here but, more recently, it has lent part of itself to tourism and expats but still retains a strong Spanish identity.  It is probably about the size of Whitstable but with a much nicer beach!  Naturally, we're out much of our time in the old town centre, el casco viejo, which is full of little cobbled streets lined with colour-co-ordinated plant pots - each street has its own colour scheme - really pretty.

A typical street - check the yellow polka dot pots!
Here's a shot from a street lined with blue pots looking up to the former Franciscan Convent, now Church of our Lady of Redemption.


Iglesia de los Remedios
And, of course, there's the town square - La Plaza de los Flores - which as its name suggests is surrounded by flora and fauna and a lovely fountain.  Everyday we have a really good coffee as only the Spanish do, occasionally with una tarta (pastry/cake) or that most typical of Spanish breakfasts, pan con tomate - a toasted baguette served with a salsa of chopped, almost pureed, tomatoes and olive oil - served with a pinch of salt - buenissima!  I've also started cooking a regional favourite - Sopa de Ajo (garlic soup) - delicious!

There are lots of restaurants and tapas bars but not too many are open out of season.  Our favourites are La Escollera - a great fish restaurant mainly for locals so that was a magnet for me!  We've also found a nice restaurant in part of our development which is always busy - De le Mar - which serves fab, international cuisine and has a daily happy hour with free tapas between 5-7pm - dangerous!

Estepona has a thriving arts scene, the most unusual of which is a penchant for murals on the outside of buildings.  Here's our favourite of 2013's entries as featured in the national Press - fantastic eh?  It stretches over six apartment blocks in the middle of town:

Dia de Pesca (Fishing  Day) by Jose Fernandez Rios

We've also visited nearby towns of Marbella, which was different from our expectations - essentially a busy and somewhat built-up town - less upmarket than we thought to include the marina.  Typical of Andalucia there's a botanical garden to provide shade from the piercing summer sun. 

The waterfall, centrepiece of Marbella's botanical garden
An unusual addition to the town is a series of Dali sculptures on the Avenida del Mar.

One of several Dali sculptures
The old town was lovely - typical Andalucian: white houses, lots of lovely flowers, cobbled streets and the hub of the town - the Plaza de las Naranjas (Orange Square).  We enjoyed lovely tapas near the marina at Casa Lola.

The quaint and very Spanish Casa Lola
The real money is at Puerto Banus - the flashiest and biggest marina down this coast with some rather large gin palaces, prestige cars and all the designer stores you can imagine.  Where better to enjoy a lunch than at the marina and watch the world go by?

Mine's a large one - g&t that is!
We've become familiar with the medical establishment too.  Mick needed to consult with an eye specialist and has a minor injury on his eyeball as well as a long-term allergy, both of which are being treated.  He also needed a crown for one of his teeth that broke while munching on something!  So my Spanish has expanded to include medical terminology and, as ever, the Spanish have been professional, helpful and altogether charming.  I think speaking the language helps - they are surprised that an English person speaks Spanish at all, let alone at a technical level.  I'm still not fluent but getting there! We're really impressed with the medical system here - very accessible and reasonably priced too.

As mentioned before we've rented a lovely apartment in Puerto Paraiso, a small development overlooking the marina.  Nice, too, that many Spanish families live in the apartments so they aren't exclusively for tourists.  We would recommend the agents we've used for this booking - Martin and David at Time in Spain - here's their link if you're interested in a holiday or property on the Costa del Sol. http://www.timeinspain.com/index.asp


View from apartment overlooking marina


Estepona Marina Village

We've really enjoyed Estepona - its easy to be here.  Some books say that tourists arrived in the '70s and never left - we can understand why.  For us it is the best town on the Costa del Sol (Malaga, of course, being a city).  We'd recommend a winter break here as it has it all: sun, beach, good location to explore the surrounds, including trips to Morocco and Gibraltar.  But, as ever for Pinxto & Tapa, its time to move and Jerez de la Frontera - home to sherry, brandy and flamenco - beckons.  The Flamenco Feria starts there soon - Andalucia's biggest celebration of all things flamenco so we're really looking forward to that.  Tune in soon folks for more despatches!

Wednesday, 15 January 2014

Day 2 - more cultural learnings from Tangier

Friday 10 January - Private Tour
We awoke at 0540 to the sound of the Imam calling for early morning prayer - quite a nice sound once you know what it is.  And after a lovely buffet breakfast to include freshly cooked pancakes & honey - care of a lovely Berber woman - it was time for business.  We were met by Hisham, our excellent guide for the day.  He wanted to show us the real Tangier - not the touristy version we were shown yesterday.  He was the perfect guide - striking the balance between the right amount of information and answering questions; he was polite and attentive to our safety and comfort - we never felt at risk at any time - in fact, the Moroccans were really kind and welcoming.  He guided us through the lesser seen parts of the Medina and its colourful markets, shops and cafes.

A beautiful doorway - what lies beyond?

Ceramics - my weakness!

Anyone for an olive?
How market stalls used to be in the UK

We stopped for coffees and mint tea at a cafe overlooking the Grand Socco.


Overlooking the Grand Socco

Hisham with the cultural attaches outside the cafe

View of city from Mandoubia Gardens
After another lovely lunch it was time to shop!  We ventured into the Medina via the Petit Socco and found a lovely bag for Katie for which we successfully haggled - a necessary part of the buying experience - not to is an insult.  It doesn't come easily for us British who are used to paying the price shown on the ticket but we got it at just under 60% of the starting price.

Then onto another souk, this time belonging to some of Hisham's family.  We were invited to have mint tea - a sign of hospitality - and we were left to look around this fabulous place - filled to the brim with jewellery, carpets, rugs, ceramics and antiques.  Sadly, there was nothing on our want list as we have to transport these things - there really was no obligation to buy so so we left empty handed - another time...

View from atop the souk - minaret in background
Then onto a Mohammed, an expert weaver who was delighted to demonstrate his skills.  Apologies for the orientation issue - I don't have the software to turn it at the moment.



Mohammed showed us some kaftans and head-scarves and briefly transformed into Fatima Cous-Cous and Aisha Tagine.  Mick was offered 400 camels for me - he was tempted!


Answers please on a postcard!
We spent the rest of the afternoon taking in the sometimes not so pleasant sights.  Living conditions may come as a shock to the 21stC European eye.  Running water is at a premium - many people still draw water from municipal wells dotted around the city.

I suddenly don't feel so thirsty

You'd have to love thy neighbour being this close!

A rooftop view of city living in Tangier
After nearly 7 hours walking, with weary legs we headed back to the hotel, past the not so Gran Teatro Cervantes (Grand Cervantes Theatre).  This photo sums up our view of Tangier - its hard to imagine this grand old dame in her prime - dated 1913.

Gran Teatro Cervantes
So, to sum up? Over a cup of tea in the sanctuary of our hotel we agreed that Tangier really is another world: an exciting, vibrant city which still has an edge and one which would take many a 21stC European out of their comfort zone.  No health and safety here! 

We were shocked too, to see so many decaying buildings and rubbish everywhere (plus the accompanying odour) - not helped by the fact that there were no street bins - only the occasional chap sweeping the streets which would be like painting the Forth bridge!  However, we saw hundreds of satellite dishes and mobile phones so quite modern in some ways.  Education is free and many Moroccans - like any good parent - are striving for a better future for their children.  As such, we were asked not to give any child street vendors money as it would detract them from getting an education. 

On reflection, we're glad we visited Tangier but, equally, we were all looking forward to getting back to Spain which isn't a foregone conclusion, even with a ticket and passport, so we were relieved to board the Seacat for Tarifa.  It was a relief to breathe fresh air and to appreciate clean streets - a reminder of what we take for granted in the UK.  It really was an eye-opener and has made us all very grateful for what we have as a general standard of living.

So, if you fancy a cultural experience, some souk shopping, meeting good people and enjoying North African food we'd recommend a short trip to Tangier, preferably with a package tour as you'd easily get lost in the labyrinthine streets of Tangier.  But be prepared to be shocked and go with your eyes wide open - there aren't too many opportunities in the increasingly globalised world for a true culture shock quite so close to you doorstep - and Tangier is one of them! 

I'll sign off now and write to you soon with more news from Estepona and surrounds - plus we've a day trip to Gibraltar to come.  Over & out for now!

Monday, 13 January 2014

Day 1 - Cultural Learnings in Tangier

Salam from Tangier!  We've just enjoyed a 2-night trip to Tangier, the tantalisingly nearby gateway to the African continent.  It would not be top on our list of places to visit from the UK but when you're a mere 14km from Africa it becomes tempting.  We also knew it would be a cultural experience which, for us, is one of the main benefits of travel.  Our friends Ken & Katie found an excellent package deal and, whilst we knew it would be a bit of a whistle-stop, touristy experience, it would give us a chance to choose what we wanted to do and see on day 2 with a private guide.  So without further ado here is an outline of our ...' cultural learnings in Tangier for make benefit the glorious UK tourist...' (remember the title of Borat's brilliant film about Kazakhstan?)

Tangier - a potted history
Tangier is old, its native tribe being the Berber.  Later the Phoenicians arrived, followed by the Carthegenians, Romans, the Moors, Arabs and Jews and, later, the Europeans (I think I've got that right!)  It is a truly international city with a rich and varied history, seen through its many landmarks, archaeology, churches, mosques and signs! 

That most international of brands

There are many quarters/barrios in the city: French, Spanish, Jewish, Portuguese, English and American.  Streets are named to reflect this, including Latin American country names.  French and Arabic are taught here although many Moroccans understand Spanish given its proximity to the Iberian peninsula.  America considered it to be such a strategic city that in 1821 it purchased its first consulate here, known as the American Legation.  There is also St Andrews Church, yet it is known as the English church.  Quite interesting for Katie who is Scottish.  It seems to be a city in which people live together - an integrated, multicultural city.  The Europeans finally left the city in 1947 since when it has been the independent and part of the Kingdom of Morocco.  Development is underway here, with a new port and airport being built, a new business area as well as 5* hotels so it will be interesting to see Tangier in a decade to see how it has changed.


Thursday 9 January - 1 day whistle-stop tour
Our coach whisked us off to the nearby port of Tarifa - the southernmost tip of Spain - and where the Seacat was waiting for us.  Africa is so close at this point that it feels as though you can almost touch it (alas, no photos allowed from the port).  All hatches were closed as the Gibraltar Strait was a bit choppy, being the point where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet.  Currents and winds make it tricky to navigate - you can't just go straight across - so our journey took 45 minutes as opposed to 30 minutes.  As you approach Tangiers the iconic image of a city built into the hills becomes visible - again, photos were not allowed.


On the African side we boarded another coach and were whizzed around the perimeter of Tangier and taken for an optional camel ride - meet Fatima - that's the name of the camel by the way!

Can you lip read?
Next was a walking tour around Tangier, starting at the entry point of the Kasbah - a walled city.  This old cobbled entrance led us through a labyrinth of the Medina (the old part) with its narrow streets, shops, old buildings, houses, mosques and koran schools.







Then onto a souk - a three-storey mecca of the material world.  You can buy all kinds of wonderful things here: jewellery, bags, furniture, carpets, ceramics, etc.  We were seated and given a 'no-obligation' talk about the carpet-making.  In Morocco, women hand-make the carpets, each being unique and telling a story about Moroccan life.  Made from lambswool, camel wool/hair, silk they are works of art and can take up to a year or so to finish the larger rugs. Coloured with natural dyes they don't fade and can be easily cleaned with water and soap.  I was seriously tempted to buy one but we are homeless at the moment!

A selection of rugs: royal, traditional and Berber

After all that walking and fending off the persistent street vendors (known locally as mosquitoes!) it was time for lunch: a 4-course meal of soup, keema, cous-cous with chicken and braised vegetables and baklava, washed down with Moroccan whisky (or mint tea).  Morocco is a Muslim country but one in which citizens are free to choose how and when they worship.  Alcohol is allowed but is served at the discretion of the establishment - fortunately the boys were able to enjoy a beer here.

A delicious lunch was served
After the fires were restoked it was time for more touring the streets and a visit to a herbal pharmacy - of great interest to me as a homeopath.  And I couldn't resist buying some Arnica oil and the latest darling of the natural cosmetic industry, Argan oil.

A friendly herbalist

Pictures can't really capture the energy, noise and life of the streets of Tangier - but here's a typical street scene.

Typical street scene
Our hotel, the Chellah, is recommended by the Lonely Planet - always a good thing.  The Chellah was an elegant old lady, built in colonial-style hotel but which was a little tired and neglected in places.  However, it was clean, comfortable and safe - much better than I expected!  We were shocked, though, that no alcohol was allowed on the premises, especially as it had such a lovely reception and bar area, as well as cards tables, where you could relax with a drink.  Still, when in Rome and all that ...

The reception area, Hotel Chellah
So, that's a round-up of day 1 of our whistle-stop tour of Tangier - I'll write separately about Day 2 as that's much more about the real Tangier.  Until then, beslama! (bye)

Wednesday, 8 January 2014

Estepona - The Night of the Three Kings

Hello to you all from Estepona where the sun is shining at last.  We arrived here on 2 January to grey skies and rain and thought for a moment we were in the UK but the Costa del Sol remains true to its name - a dazzling 18 degrees - and to top it all we've seen dolphins off the shore!  No doubt a sight for those of you with sore eyes from a cold, waterlogged Britain.

Home is a lovely apartment overlooking the marina and, beyond that, the Mediterranean.  We're only 50 miles from Gibraltar which is clearly visible on most days and, today, we've seen the coast of Morocco - strange to see the evidence of being so far south.  We're here for January to unwind from being on the road for 8 months having travelled some 2,000 miles (through France and Spain) and to get a bit of late winter sun before heading west to Cadiz and Jerez.

Morroco (left); Gibraltar (centre); mainland Spain (right)
Estepona is a nice little town with a strong Spanish core as well as being home to wintering ex-pats (British, Dutch and German).  Everywhere we go we see and hear Spanish which is great for me - but Mick is relieved to be amongst some expats so we're both happy.  Estepona has avoided selling itself to mass, cheap tourism like Benidorm and, fortunately, is not as blingy as nearby Marbella.  We'll do a day trip there and bring you some more images of Brits abroad!  We also plan a day trip to Gibraltar and a 2-night trip to Tangiers with Ken & Katie who are wintering in nearby Fuengirola.

But back to Spain ... 

5 January - Night of Kings
Today is a big deal for children all over Spain.  It is the Epiphany or 12th day of Christmas - when the Three Kings arrive bearing gifts - and is nowadays represented by a big procession through the town from which swathes of sweets are thrown to the children who are waiting with bags which they fill!  Traditionally the good children get sweets - the naughty ones receive charcoles (rock-like sweets covered in chocolate to make them look like coal). We've not seen this celebration before so we followed the crowds and found a space on the roundabout - a good vantage point for photos!

At 8pm the roads were cordoned off and the procession of floats began with centurions on a horse-drawn chariot which was sadly unlit so photos don't do it justice.  I recorded a few videos but am having trouble uploading them so, until I sort that out, here's a photo of the Neptune float - a bit flat we know as you don't get to hear the volume from the collective excitement - sorry - techie probs! 

Neptune float, Night of Kings, Estepona


The team on the floats hurl handfuls of sweets into the crowd - we were hit by a few - and they hurt!  We did harvest a couple of handfuls of sweets which we gave to children around us as it is their celebration.  It was lovely to see their genuine glee and excitement as they scrambled around for sweets - joined by teenagers and adults!  A simple pleasure but that's Spain for you - always a refreshing experience.


6 January - Day of Kings
The Day of Kings is when Spanish exchange gifts and is a day of family togetherness and so is marked by that most Spanish of pastimes, the paseo - always lovely to see three, sometimes four generations paseo-ing - and taking pride in their appearance.  A special treat enjoyed today is Roscon, a sweet bread covered with glace cherries and sugar, inside which a plastic toy is hidden. 

So, that's a glimpse into how the Spanish do Christmas and New Year.  Over & out until the next post which will feature our visit to nearby Tangiers!

Saturday, 4 January 2014

Happy New Year from Malaga!

Hello to you all!  We hope you had a good Christmas with your family and friends and that you're not too windswept by the all too commonplace windy, wet weather.

We had a lovely time in the UK over Christmas visiting friends and catching up with family after travelling through France and Spain for 8 months.  To be honest, we were made so welcome and spoilt that we felt like staying in the UK - despite the weather - but then we thought of hearing Auld Lang Syne again and remembered why we wanted to be in Spain for New Year's Eve!

So, after a couple of tearful hasta prontos and lumps in our throats, we returned on the Easyjet red eye on New Year's Eve and, after an afternoon snooze to top up the sleep batteries, we hit the streets of Malaga to get a slice of the action in readiness for las doce uvas (the 12 grapes), the traditional way to see in a new year in Spain.  We were a little worried as the streets were pretty quiet at 7.30pm and only a handful of tapas bars were open but we found the fabulous La Piconera in the centre and it was certainly where the action was.  It was so busy we had to wait for a while to place our order and as we'd been patient the owner insisted we only paid for our drinks - only in Spain eh?

So after some lovely wine, bacalao (salted cod), hambuergesitas de pollo (mini chicken burgers) y patatas bravas we felt ready for some cava and the grapes and set off for the Plaza de la Constitucion where we stood among the crowds awaiting the big event - not that we particularly wanted to see the end of 2013 - it was a good year for us - but just to be part of the action. 

In readiness for the big hour!

We met a lovely Spanish family who showed Mick how to eat the grapes - he was trying to cheat you see - putting them in his mouth before the first strike of midnight - men eh - so competitive!   Each chime relates to different aspects of luck for the forthcoming year: health, work, love, happiness, etc.  What a great tradition and one which, refreshingly, doesn't involve alcohol.  You can swish the grapes down afterwards with a little cava but it isn't necessary.  We only took a few sips of our cava before dispensing with the bottle as only a few locals had a mini bottle of bubbles for a post-midnight drink.

You'll be pleased to know that we successfully completed the challenge so we're looking forward to 2014.  And here's how the incoming new year was marked in Malaga:



So, there's not much more to say except that we wish you all a healthy, happy and prosperous 2014.  Thanks to all our friends and family who reminded us what family and friendship mean and we'll see you really soon.  Until then, do follow our escapades - the next update will be from Estepona - a nice little expat  enclave on the Costa del Sol where we hope to get some late winter sun (though at the time of writing the winds are so strong the double glazed doors and windows are rattling!)  So, until then, cuidarte y pasatelo bien (take care and have a good time). Love F&M. xx