The homecoming ...

Hello to you all from Whitstable!  Life ain't so bad back in the UK when you've got this on your doorstep:

West Beach from the woodland walk through Prospect Fields

A timeless viewing point: The Street in Tankerton, Whitstable

It has been a whirlwind few weeks since we returned from our wanderings and, already, we are back into the groove in the UK.  We're both working: Mick has had a couple of surveys and does a bit of driving work while the surveys pick up again.  I've found myself a short-term, full time contract at Bupa HQ in London which is great - except for the 5.30am alarm call - brutal to my Mediterranean-ised body clock!

But for those of you that know me a full time job would never be enough, so I've enrolled on a preparation course for some professional Spanish diplomas - the first of which is in July - gulp!  I'd like to work with Spanish in the future and these diplomas give employers throughout the Hispanic speaking world a real indicator of language competency so its worth putting myself through the hoops - one more time!  Sometimes I feel like the eternal student - but, then, I guess we are all students of life ...

I've also started a couple of writing classes - why stop at one?  And I wonder why I'm completely pooped come Friday!  I'm developing an idea for a children's book which may become a mini series as well as learning how to write features - all with a view to a future career in writing.  I've always loved words so I figured, why not? 

And in case you're wondering where I find the time to ponder all these ideas, I use the daily commute to do my studying and writing.  It helps that I'm travelling in style on the obtusely named 'High Speed' line - which is only high speed for the last 20 minutes of the journey - for which a premium is charged of course!  Welcome back to Rip off Britain Fliss!  But, it is a more civilised, spacious and comfortable experience when compared to the regular commuter service.   How I miss the Spanish infrastructure and reasonable fares!

Mick and I also took Mum to Claridges for Afternoon Tea - that quintessential British pastime which this stunning hotel performs with aplomb.  You may recall Mum was our PA while we travelled and she did us proud so it was the least we could do.  She loved every minute of it and who wouldn't?!





The very elegant sandwich selection ...

And the main event: heavenly scones, cakes and pastries

We also managed to squeeze in a cocktail in at The Renaissance Hotel, St Pancras Intl - very plush!

My very glamorous Mum!

Cocktails at The Booking Office Bar, The Renaissance

We've also managed to catch up with my brother and his family.  It was great to see them in Whitstable recently.  And well done to Sam for all his hard work studying for and sitting his AS levels - !buena suerte!  We've yet to catch up with our other nephew, Buddy, who's away at Cambridge Uni but you know how it is with students - suffice to say we shan't hold our breath!

So we're glad to report that all is well - except there was one thing missing: our lovely yacht "Reward".  I couldn't get time out so soon into a new job to crew Skipper back from Dunkirk but childhood friend and fellow seadog, Brendan - who crewed Mick and his parents across the Atlantic - saved the day.  Its worth sharing with you that Brendan's strategy on that Atlantic crossing was to suck-up to the Admiral (Mick's Dad).  To whatever Admiral barked, Brendan responded, 'yes John'!   Naturally, the Admiral was always singing Brendan's praises but what he failed to realise was the fatal error of beating - more than once - Trixie (Mick's Mum) at card games!

Back to the present day and things were going well until Brendan realised there was no kettle aboard.  For those of you that know him, he takes his tea intravenously and, to avoid mutiny, Mick had to source a kettle - quickly!  They spent a couple of days in Dunkirk remasting, launching and preparing her for the short hop to Calais as the weather was not in favour of a direct crossing to home waters.  After another couple of nights waiting for the weather to improve, good conditions prevailed on Friday for the crossing to Dover, followed by the short hop to Ramsgate the next day which is where she rests - and where we started - in all her splendour.  Skipper does keep her shipshape!  But, as lovely as she is, we've decided to sell her as we've done what we set out to do with her.  But Skipper has his eye on another boat so seafaring is still on the agenda.

Mick & Brendan in the overcast, home port of Ramsgate

Whilst in Calais Mick and Brendan met Ray, a young guy on "Isabella" who is setting out on the same trip as we did last year - single handed - carrying his mast.  His destination is Greece so a big "hello" to you Ray and have a great time.  We wish we were doing it again but our time will come again in the near future.  You'll meet some great people and have an unforgettable experience.  Stay in touch if you can.

And, sadly, I guess that pretty much draws a line under our tale.  And what a year it's been: not too many people get the opportunity to do what we've done: 6 months cruising France on our yacht and 6 months travelling Spain.  We know we are very fortunate but we had to make a few sacrifices along the way - you need to engineer yourself into a position where you can take time out.  We saw some amazing sights, met some great people - many of whom we're still in touch with - ate some great food and drank even better wine! 

And I guess that's the end of The Owl & Pussycat Diaries.  But fear not - there will be other journeys and developments to update you about but probably in a different blog - we'll see.  So, thanks for everyone that's followed us.  Do feel free to send any comments via the blog - we'd love to hear from you on what you thought.

So, until the next blog, over & out shipmates!

Las Rubias @ Semana Santa, Malaga - Pt 2

Hello blog fans!  I've heard from some of you that you're having problems playing the videos in the previous post.  I have had various techie problems uploading videos but have done all I can this end.  I think the problem is the iPhone or, rather, its browser - Safari.  For those of you reading on iPhones and iPads you may have better results using a regular PC or laptop (not sure that you can change browsers on iPhones?)  Good luck and, hopefully, happy viewing!

Monday 14 April (Lunes Santo)
We were up a little later today after the excitement of Prendimiento. We thought we'd see to a couple of chores: Cathy needed a Microsim for her iPad so my techie Spanish was called upon plus a couple of groceries and a coffee.  We headed to my favourite cafe/panaderia, Canasta, where Cathy recommended a Semana Santa speciality cake - torrijas - a light bread pudding type cake topped with cinnamon and sugar or honey - delicious - and works wonders on the blood sugar of the procession-weary!  Also on offer were chocolate nazarenos - little triangular milk and white chocolate hooded characters - we resisted those though.  Canasta is directly opposite the market and we were well placed for a peek at Malaga's bustling market - why are British markets are so lacklustre?

The wonderful market roof and stained glass

The closest Las Rubias got to a date!

And it wasn't long before we succumbed to the aroma of Malaga's speciality - fried fish - and were soon enjoying lunch at the fabulous market café/bar - Bar Atarazanas - which served up melt-in-the-mouth calamares (octopus) and shell-on gambas (prawns) - washed down with Cathy's usual Rioja Crianza while I tried a new white wine - Rueda - the perfect complement.  We ambled through the streets and, unbelievably, Cathy was hungry again and stopped off at Quitapenas for a nibble!

I was roused from my reverie by the unmistakable sound of Semana Santa music at close quarters, this one was my favourite piece of music here to date and which I included on my "Semana Santa Malaga style" post so I won't include it here again.  Then we spotted Mike and Frank and they invited us to their swish hotel for a drink on the roof terrace to take in the fabulous views.

The lovely Frank & Mike on the roof terrace, AC Palacio, Malaga

The view across the harbour from the AC Palacio's roof terrace

Then out for the evening via another Malaga institution - Bar Malaga - where we enjoyed a glass of wine before heading onto a tapas bar on Cathy's "must" list - Wendy Gamba which, from the name, you'll gather specialises in prawns and seafood with a contemporary twist.  We enjoyed Rueda Churros de Gambas (a wheel shaped savoury doughnut filled with prawns) - yum!  And then El Refectorium Catedral - a thoroughly elegant and modern tapas experience with excellent food, service and contemporary twists on traditional tapas - my enduring favourite is boquerones.  We also loved this ornamental ostrich egg! 

Elegant ornamentation at El Refectorium Catedral

Mike and Frank had recommended we head to Plaza del Obispo, outside the Cathedral at midnight for a special concert given by the Cathedral's choir to serenade cofradia Estudiantes and the arrival of their tronos. Not many cofradías have two tronos so it is quite a spectacle when you see them.  The paso had to negotiate the central fountain - all in a day's work for the amazing costaleros!  Look at how close we were and the amazing detail on this trono:

And then back to the apartment via a couple of bars and we called it a day - but not before facetime with Janet - Cathy's partner in crime whom Mick and I met in Rioja last autumn.  We missed you Janet - hopefully see you at the wine festival later this year!

Tuesday 15 April (Martes Santo)

After a quick call to Mum to wish her Happy Birthday it was a free morning as the processions don't start until the afternoon.  Cathy wanted to visit San Juan de Bautista church (I think she was hoping to run into Antonio!) after which I fancied a wander around the harbour.  We'd worked up a bit of an appetite so we fancied an early lunch and shoe-horned ourselves into the ever popular La Campana.  We had a racion (slightly larger than a tapa) of adobo (dogfish in a marinated batter) - absolutely delicious - so fresh and tender - after which we spotted a free table at another restaurant on Cathy's 'must' list - Uvodoble and where I tried a sublime ajoblanco - a chilled, thick soup of garlic and almonds.  We also ordered the award winning taco de pulpo y crema de puerro (octopus with creamed leeks) which sounded lovely but I was put off by the little suckers on the tentacles so Cathy obliged - over more wine of course!

Siesta time was followed by our last evening in my beloved Malaga.  I head home tomorrow to move back into our house after a year's travel and Cathy moves onto Cadiz - I wish I was going with her but there's always next year!  We'd arranged to have a drink with Mike and Frank but Antigua Casa de Guardia was off limits as a procession was passing and etiquette dictates you can't cross in front of the band and trono/paso.  So onto Bar Malaga after which we wanted to see tronos for cofradías Pasión and Rescate.  Mike and Frank had bagged a great spot from which to view the processions and so we took up our positions and we weren't disappointed as they were stunning. The first is Pasión's trono:

And here's Rescate's paso which is preceded by a saeta - a soloist serenade.  This clip is quite 3-4 minutes but worth it - have you ever seen anything like it?!  Guess what - techie problems again.  Enjoy the rest of the post while I work on this last video which, hopefully, I'll bring to you shortly.

[video to follow (hopefully!)]

And then it was time for more tapas!  We fancied another visit to Wendy Gamba as Cathy fancied the Tartar de Gambas (raw prawns served with trout roe).  It was a racion (larger portion) so enough to share but, although I tried it, I didn't want too much of it.  Instead, I sampled a lemon, garlic and soy marinated prawn brocheta (skewer) - with a glass of red Vermouth on tap - much like a sangria with that Vermouth kick. 

Fliss at Wendy Gamba, next to the Vermouth taps!

With all of Spain's wonderful wines I didn't realise that Malaga is known for its Vermouth - I really enjoyed it and will go back for some more.  And we couldn't resist one last visit to Orellana which is the next bar along from Wendy Gamba - and it was six deep at the bar.  We had solomillo (pork fillet) in whisky and a mini hamburger - they are all the rage at the moment - and we weren't disappointed.  Our amazing waitress remembered our wine order from our first night here.  Cathy, too, has experienced this in Sevilla and Cadiz - real customer service.

And that, sadly, brings us to the end of our time at Malaga's Semana Santa.  I'm not sure how I'll structure my days without the familiar bells, music, processions, coffee and tapas.  Mike has Semana Santa music on his iPhone - I think that's the way to go.  And, of course, I'll start planning for next year's Semana Santa.  Cathy is keen as are Mike & Frank, plus my friends from Estepona and Lingfield (UK), are looking at going, so lots to look forward to. 

I hope you've enjoyed the Semana Santa posts and that they inspire you to experience it for yourself - it is truly remarkable - and moving.  Whatever your faith, such devotion and open expression is an eye-opener for those living in increasingly politically-correct and secular countries.

So, I guess this pretty much marks the end of our adventure - and what an unforgettable year its been.  Living on our lovely boat, the French canals, barges, locks galore, aqueducts, the might Saone and the majestic Rhone, the Med, new friends, great food and even better wine, the Toropiscine, sun, azure skies and - last but most definitely not the least - Spain and the Spanish - que bien! 

There are a couple of additional bits of news: Mick is currently in Ibiza on a boys' weekend away - perhaps its their midlife crisis?  We've also heard from Ken & Katie on Stardust that they're en route back through the canals - the Bourgougne/Champagne route this time northwards to Dunkirk.  Alan & Carole on She's a B are currently in Holland and doing well - I think this is their 8th season in the European canal systems!  We will be cruising in the French Med with Alan & Jaqui on Splodge later in the summer (can't wait for that!)

Finally, if you're wondering whether or not we sold our boat in France - the answer is 'non', not too disappointed as we'll get to enjoy her over the summer - when it arrives!  We will be sailing Reward home from Dunkirk shortly so it isn't, just yet, the end of The Owl & Pussycat Diaries, so, until the final homecoming, over for now. 

Las Rubias @ Semana Santa, Malaga - Pt 1

Hello to you all from home in Whitstable, Kent!  Yes, the gap year had to end and we're back home, in our house which we'd rented for a year and which was returned to us in excellent condition - we know we were very lucky.  Apologies, yet again, for the extended delay in publishing this post - it isn't for want of trying - but I couldn't access the admin part of the blog on the iPhone or at the local library's network (what I've been doing whilst awaiting our new home broadband connection).  Plus a busy couple of weeks settling into 'normality' and getting some work organised - but I won't bore you all with that - without further ado here's what you've been waiting for!  There are a few short videos in this post as it really is the only way to bring the essence of Semana Santa to you so bear with me!

Saturday 12 April
I arrived in a warm and sunny Malaga around midday - early enough to enjoy a long-awaited café con leche and a light lunch and soak up the essence of Spain: great food, sun, vivacity with a smidge of organised chaos!  Cathy was due to arrive from the States at 5pm so I had time to reflect on the events which led to my being here: how lucky I've been to have taken a year out in France and Spain; how we'd met at the Rioja Wine Festival on only day two of Mick and I's time in Spain (whilst in a queue for tapas of course) - purely by chance just a few months ago.  It dawned on me that we didn't know one another that well and, momentarily, I wondered if we'd get on OK, but my hunch was that we'd be fine.  As it turned out Cathy and I are share similar tastes and make good travel pals.  In fact we were bad influences for one another as we both love to be where it's at!  The apartment - which Cathy had booked some time before her trip - was perfect: very central, just off the main street, so close enough to be near the action but not directly in the throws of it.  She chose very well but then Cathy has good taste and knows what she wants!  After unpacking and refreshing after her long journey it was time to start the fiesta as Cathy always does - with a glass of Pedro Ximenez - naturally I was happy to oblige!

Enjoying a glass of Malaga Virgen, Antigua Casa de Guardia

The Tapas Trail

Cathy and I believe that one of life's pleasures is eating Spanish style.  Pintxos and tapas are at the heart of Spanish culture, so much so there is a verb tapear (to eat tapas).  For those of you new to tapas its an inspired way to eat: little and often would sum it up.  The locals eat a tapa accompanied with a tapa-size glass of wine or beer and then move onto another bar.  Usually eaten standing up it is quite different to how we dine in the UK, being informal, fun and delicious.  Cathy has a legendary appetite for tapas - she must have hollow legs because she's a slim woman!

So, armed with Cathy's infamous food notes we headed for Bar Orellana.  Nothing can prepare you for the energy and busyness of a good tapas bar - usually 6 deep at the bar yet somehow the amazing waiters know exactly who's ordered what - even if you've moved place which is often the case - a masterclass in customer service! We chose croquetas de jamon (ham croquettes), habas con Serrano (fava-type beans with Serrano ham), legrita de  bacalao (smoked cod fillet in a little roll) served with Cathy's favourite: Rioja Crianza and my new favourite, Verdejo (a white Rioja-like wine from Valladolid).  Happy days!

Then to nearby Souvi which offers contemporary tapas and, despite the good reviews, it was average - a case of the food being style over content and sold at a premium.  We did, though, discover a lovely red wine - Chinchilla seis + seis from nearby Ronda - all was not lost. Suffice to say that Souvi has been scratched from the list!  We wandered through the busy streets and a little later we found ourselves in a bar that was to become one of our favourites, La Campana.  Cathy was 'starving' again and so we ordered tortalita de camarones (battered shrimp fritter), calamaritos (battered shrimp tails), aceitunas (olives) and more wine and with full bellies we decided it was probably best to have an earlyish night.  Cathy's body clock was on US time and we had to be up and ready for an early procession tomorrow and, rather sensibly, we were tucked up by midnight.

Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday)
We were up early and over a working breakfast planned the day ahead.  Cathy already had a good idea of the day's processions and our local church - San Juan Bautista (St John the Baptist) and its cofradía - Fusioniadas - was on the list.  Literally down the street from the apartment it was one not to miss so we were there at 10.30am by the side entrance - two huge timber doors with a ramp down to street level.  The anticipation was palpable and we waited patiently among the hordes jostling for a good view - it was all good-natured - no pushing, shoving or cursing!  We heard the occasional crash and thud from inside the church as the cofradia edged into position  inside the tiny church.  And then it was action stations!  Here's the costaleros (throne carriers) led by the capataz (wearing a veil-like hood which doesn't cover his face and who shouts directions - listen out for him shouting... "un poquito a la izquierda" (a little to the left) and "... a la derecha (to the right)".  And of course you see and hear the iconic shuffle as the men manoeuvre the trono into position.  I couldn't believe the amount of people and regalia that filed out of such a small church - for Dr Who fans the church was of Tardis proportions!  And here it is - the trono arrives at the door in all its glory to the adulation of the crowds:

And so the cofradía set off to carry their Virgin atop her throne - all day - around the city - stopping about every 50-100 metres for a rest, accompanied by the bell signals and directions from the capataz.  Now if that isn't entertainment I don't know what is!  Multiply that by seven (the other cofradías processing that day around the city) and you can imagine the planning that goes into Semana Santa.  Each cofradía has its own route but all go down the main street - Marques de Larios - which has chairs the entire length of the road - 4 deep each side - with a raised stall around its main town square - Plaza de la Constitucion - where Mick and I saw in the New Year!  We spotted Frank and Mike in the crowd who are friends of Cathy she'd met on Trip Advisor and we arranged to meet them later at the church for the trono's homecoming - not be missed apparently.

And see if you can spot the gorgeous Antonio Banderas (and, sadly, Melanie) in the video below.  Antonio is a proud Malagueño and member (we believe) of this cofradía.  At the very least it is his family's church and Malaga welcomes him with open arms - and so would Cathy and I given the chance!  Indeed, he is very much involved with Malaga's Semana Santa in that he reads the Easter story with a contemporary twist.

After all the excitement it was almost time for lunch and we managed to find a spare table at Meson Cervantes and which was on Cathy's food list!  We enjoyed ensalada malaguena (a salad of bacalao, orange and potatoes in olive oil and herbs); flamenquin de jamon Serrano (a type of oven-baked croquette); and mixed grilled veggies - with our usual wines - delicious!  And, with full bellies once more, it was time for Cathy's siesta - a case of trying to get into European time.


And then I heard the bells and great music near the apartment and, from our window, I could see our local church's trono - at rest - in its final approach to the church.  Look at how close we were - I was so excited - and I loved the use of percussion to build the anticipation and, of course, the bells to signal 'down' for rest:

Taking the weight off their shoulders: weary costaleros at rest

And the bell rings and they're off again with the task of getting the trono through the narrow street with an overhanging building to negotiate.  Look at how they shift the trono diagonally - a masterclass in team work and madness in that unique Spanish way!  You'll hear instructions from the capataz, e.g. "ahora" (now) and "andamos" (let's walk).  Some have to use the right-hand wall for support!

And then I spotted Mike and Frank in the crowds and we thought it'd be nice just to wander the streets and soak up the atmosphere - and a glass of wine!  We eventually found a table at Cotijo de Pepe at Plaza de Merced which was great: a very traditional restaurant and we shared albondigas (meatballs); brocheta solomillo de cerdo (skewer of pork sirloin in a Malaga Virgen salsa); ensalada de aguacate (avocado salad) and more flamenquin (oven-baked croquettes).  We had a great evening.

However, Las Rubias had a bit more fuel in the tank and we decided to follow another cofradía - Prendimiento - on their return journey.  If you thought Fusionadas were impressive - and they were - wait 'til you see this!  As a local guy put it "its where their Virgin and Jesus meet up and recognise one another" (after doing separate routes that day).  And as Cathy said, its pure theatre!  Oh, and this was at 2am!

And in case you thought that was it there's the grand finale - the encierro (close) - an orchestration of drama and logistical mastery where the tronos are reversed into the templo/casa!  For some reason my video can't be uploaded - techie problems - I hope to bring this to you shortly but in the meantime will leave that to your imagination!

And that would seem to be a good place to finish this post.  I'll fill you in on the next couple of days at Semana Santa very soon so tune in soon!  

Semana Santa Malaga style

12 April 2014
A belated hola! to you from a warm and sunny Malaga.  I write to you from my default Malaga cafe - La Canasta - enjoying a long overdue café con leche and light lunch which will be followed by a chilled glass of Manzanilla sherry in the bar next door, currently packed with well-dressed Spaniards enjoying an aperitivo y tapa.  I am here for a few days with Cathy to see the processions which mark Semana Santa (Holy Week/Easter) here in Malaga.  As a Semana Santa virgin I was happy to be in the hands of Cathy, a seasoned aficionada - this year will be her 11th Semana Santa!

What is Semana Santa?
You don't have to be religious to appreciate Semana Santa - there is something for everyone: pomp, splendour, opulence, music, drama, atmosphere, etc.  Of course, Spain is primarily a Catholic country and the processions tell the story of the Easter story.  Other than that, I didn't know anything about Semana Santa or what to expect.  Would it be an upbeat or solemn affair?  Would it pass in silence or with the usual Spanish gusto?  Each town and city celebrates Semana Santa differently.  I knew there would be magnificent thrones carried by lots of men, rocking side to side to bear the enormous weight of the thrones (some weigh in excess of a metric ton) but that's about it.  I've never, though, had a problem with being thrown in at the deep end ... I usually swim! 

In brief, Semana Santa can be summarised in three words: passion, devotion and art.  Sure, the images depict religious scenes but not all the participants and spectators will be practising Catholics - indeed church attendance in Spain is very low.  And, some comment that its opulence must be offensive to those suffering in the face of la crisis (economic crisis in Spain) but we saw no evidence of that except perhaps the Spanish would only have one drink and tapas, then go home, rather than make a day or night of it.  No, they were out in number - young and old - enjoying the occasion because Semana Santa is a huge part of Spanish culture.  And, of course, they're dressed in their finest!

Each procession is the culmination of a year's meticulous planning, creativity, maintenance and artwork on the part of the cofradia (brotherhood) and its helpers.  I can't begin to imagine how many people are involved in bringing one throne to a procession - I suspect 500+.

The Brotherhoods
Throughout Malaga's Semana Santa a series of processions will be made by 16 cofradias (brotherhoods) - not all in one day but usually half a dozen per day.  Some cofradias will do more than one procession during Semana Santa and lovingly design, build, maintain and care for their pasos (floats) and tronos (thrones).  The pasos/tronos are huge platforms which hold each brotherhood's depiction of the Virgin Mary and/or Christ.  The cofradias have their own unique coloured robes for easy identification during Semana Santa.  Some pasos/tronos are so big that they cannot be stored in their home church so, instead, they are stored in special casas - big church-like storage buildings adorned with images of the Virgin Mary and Christ. 

The two big days in the Semana Santa calendar are Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday - when Jesus enters Jerusalem on the Passover) and Jueves Santo (Holy Thursday/Maundy Thursday - when Jesus shared his last supper with his disciples before being arrested and crucified the next day).  This time around I will only experience Palm Sunday, Holy Monday & Holy Tuesday - all daytime processions - because Mick and I are in the process of moving back into our house after being away a year.  On Holy Wednesday Cathy moves onto Cadiz for a very different Semana Santa experience - much smaller and more sombre apparently - yet nonetheless moving.  Processions on Jueves Santo begin at midnight in remembrance of the vigil kept by the Jesus's disciples.  If you like your sleep I recommend you don't stay in a central location on Holy Thursday - the bells and bands will run throughout the night until 7 or 8am!

The Processions

Each procession lasts around 8 hours.  Some allow a change of costaleros or hombres de trono (men that carry the throne) but not all.  This may explain why a procession only moves around 50 metres at a time before taking a rest of 15 minutes or so.  A procession can take an hour to pass and you have to plan your day around this and, of course, there are several processions per day.  You can't go anywhere without bumping into a procession during Semana Santa!  There are crossing points and etiquette: you can only cross once the band and throne have passed.  You'd think it would be chaos but people wait patiently - no pushing or shoving like there'd be in the UK - no drunkenness either - how refreshing!  

Pasos & Tronos

The pasos/tronos are truly works of art.  You won't see anything like it anywhere else except Latin America.  The biggest European Semana Santa is Sevilla which I've yet to visit (Cathy's been more than once) but Malaga is no slouch.  A week after we left Malaga, Cathy emailed me to say she was still overwhelmed by Malaga's Semana Santa.

 

The tronos usually depict each cofradia's unique and subtly different life size Virgin Mary topped with a canopy to protect her from unexpected rain while the pasos (floats - without a canopy) usually feature Christ and one or two other characters, perhaps a Roman soldier, a disciple and often a tree!  I've yet to discover why each cofradia has its own Virgin (e.g. Virgen de la Cabeza, Virgen de las Lagrimas, Virgen de la Esperanza) - perhaps someone can let me know - but they are all different in colour scheme, detail and splendour.  Indeed, should it rain the cofradias have to rush their paso/trono into the nearest church or casa and that's their chance lost for another year.  Of course, when the weather dictates, they then have to move their trono/paso back to their own church/casa should it temporarily be in another church - not with all the pomp and splendour but it will be a formal occasion. 

Trono (left) and paso (right) of Cofradia Amor

But it doesn't stop there.  Each paso/trono is accompanied by a large - often military - band (with full percussion and brass sections) that has its own set of music to play throughout the day.  The music varies between rousing and solemn - but it is always beautiful and very moving.  Cathy and I were moved to tears on more than one occasion.  Listen to this - recorded from our balcony:

The band is followed by a cruz de guia (a guiding cross) and a team of nazarenos (Christ's witnesses) wearing robes, an antifaz (hood) and/or a capirote (conical hat with hood) to hide their identity.  There is no malice at play here - that is the fault of the Ku Klux Klan who stole the capirote and used it for its own twisted purposes.  Young bystanders can't wait to shake a hand with a narazareno and may even The narazenos number in excess of 100 and are forbidden from talking once robed (though you'll see them chatting in the photo below!)  Occasionally you'll see penitentes, robed people bearing their own cross(es) to repent their sins, dependent on their own life story.  They don't wear hoods but are sometimes blindfolded and barefooted.

Nazarenos wearing capirotes at rest during procession

Next is a priest who blesses the trono/paso with incense (you can see him behind the narazenos).  Then you'll see the similarly robed but unhooded capataz who directs the 100+ costaleros (men that actually carry the trono) by voice and bell located at the front of the trono.  I got to recognise the bell ringing pattern (one for right, two for left and 3/4 for up and down) - I loved it, so much so that Cathy wanted to buy me a bell!  You can imagine the scene: a cacophony of bells, bands and clapping - that sense of organised chaos that is Spain and which we love!

The tronos are beautifully decorated with the Virgin Mary for she is revered by Catholics.  She is always centrepiece, dressed and protected by a canopy.  Each trono bears numerous candles encased in long, glass holders (which are kept lit by a member of the cofradia using a long, telescopic pole throughout the day), flowers and cherubs all of which are surrounded by gold or silver poles which support the canopy.  The Virgin Mary wears a manta/palio - a long veil which covers her forehead and runs backwards to the rear of the trono.  The mantas are sumptuous, usually velvet, silk or satin - or a combination of all three - beautifully embellished by hand with real gold thread, jewels and gems - breathtakingly beautiful and priceless.  The manta for our local cofradia (Fusionadas) cost £1.5m in gold thread alone!  Sometimes the appearance of a trono is marked by a saeta - a solemn, flamenco-like serenade sung by a male or female soloist.  All very dramatic. 

Trono showing the magnificent manta

The paso will have Christ as centrepiece usually with other characters and is carried by costaleros like the trono but is never covered with a canopy, perhaps because he's not so elaborately dressed and presented but, still, I'm sure it would be damaged by rain.

A typical paso showing Christ with the crucifix

The streets are embellished by the cofradias' red banners depicting their own Virgin Mary and/or Christ.  Friends of ours likened the processions to opera settings and they were right.  Some cofradias throw rose petals onto their Virgin Mary from the balconies. 

Typical Semana Santa banners adorn many balconies

So, that sets the stage for what is to come.  Next I'll bring you news of Las Rubias (blondes) let loose in Malaga for Semana Santa, particularly some favourite tapas bars and that of our own, local cofradia - Fusionadas and its Virgen Maria Santisima de Lagrimas y Favores (Holy Mary of Tears and Promises/Favours) - of which Antonio Banderas is a member!  Over & out for now!  xx

Back to life, back to reality!

Hello to you all from Blighty!  First things first: apologies for the longer than usual delay in updating you.  It's been a busy time since we left Dunkirk almost two weeks ago.

We managed to cram our worldly goods into our new car and boarded the ferry for Dover.  Its just as well we allowed plenty of time as our friendly French port workers were on strike and had shut Calais, meaning all traffic - including over a hundred articulated lorries - were diverted to Dunkirk.  We joined a 2-3 mile tailback but amazingly we boarded our reserved ferry - not a given as the lorries were trying to jump the queue. 

Our tardis-like VW Passat Estate

We'd heard about the pollution cloud over the UK and saw evidence of it in terms of reduced visibility at sea.  Otherwise the crossing was good but we caught sight of the White Cliffs with only 10 minutes before berthing such was the fog.  On arrival in the UK were still officially homeless as our tenants date to move out was a week away so we spent a couple of nights at one of our homes from home - The Royal Temple Yacht Club, Ramsgate - where we met up with some familiar faces with whom we had a good chat about our trip and RTYC news.

The next day was a chance to catch up with friends and a much needed visit to the hairdresser!  Then onto Mum's with whom we spent a few days catching up, collecting more of our worldly goods and a debrief as Mum's been a great P.A. to us while we've been away.  We're looking forward to taking her to Claridge's for afternoon tea as a special thank you - cheers Mum!

Friday 11 April
We left Mum's early as today is the day we move back into the house after a year and we knew our tenants planned to be out by midday.  We got the go ahead from our agents at 10.30am so, by the time we got back to Kent they had long gone.  We have to say that we were blessed with perfect tenants - they left the house in immaculate condition so we simply had to move back in.  Thanks to Steve and Agnes for looking after our home so well and to our agents - Kite Homes - who sourced us the ideal tenants.  We know how lucky we are as we've heard some horror stories - some from people we met in the canals doing the same as us to help fund the year away.

We set about retrieving our furniture from the garage - all in excellent condition - dry and damp-free (we took care to cover and wrap them well and used silica packets galore to protect them as best we could so we're glad we took the time).  With the bed and sofas in and other essentials we were pretty much done but fancied dinner out as it'd had been a long afternoon.  When we got home my mind then turned to the task of packing for a long weekend in Malaga, departing the next day!  This happened as a result of booking my flights - and our tenants requesting to leave a bit earlier than planned - so with flights booked it was all systems go.

With alarm clocks set for 4.30am the next day we hit the sack on our sofabed pretty early (we realised when unpacking the garage that we'd disposed of our divan(!) so our comfy sofabed came to the rescue of two travel weary bodies.  We figured out we've slept in 25 beds since leaving the UK last April!

You may recall Mick and I met two American women at the Rioja Wine Festival last October and we all hit it off.  Cathy, from California, flies to Spain twice yearly - once for Easter celebrations and the other for a harvest festival in October.  We had loose arrangements to meet in April but Mick and I left Spain a bit earlier than planned.  Cathy and I stayed in touch and she mentioned her trip to Malaga for Semana Santa and I couldn't resist.  I've always wanted to experience Semana Santa (Holy Week) and knew I'd be in good hands with Cathy being a Spain aficionada.  And how could I resist going back to my beloved Malaga ... it was a no brainer even though it was a bit last minute. even by my standards!

So, on that note, I'll bid you Happy Easter and until my next post on Semana Santa Malaga style here's a little taster!



A trono passing our window en route to her home church

Feeling lost, in France...

Friday 28 March
Bonjour de Dunkirk!  We've been in France for a week now and I have to say we are feeling at a little bit of a loss.  We're missing Spain, the heat, the food, the cost of living (half of that in France) - and I'm missing the language and people.  The weather of course doesn't help but there's something more ... a certain je ne c'est pas.  It was great to meet up with Claire, Lol and their menagerie who made us feel very welcome but the north European chill and dampness is a shock to our Mediterranean-ised blood!  Even Dunkirk doesn't feel quite the same this time around - maybe its because it is a line in the sand - the point at which our adventure ends and where we have to address reality.   You're thinking, '...hang on, who are they to complain?' and you're right - so we'll harrumph instead!  

A week in France
Bonjour de Biarritz, the surprisingly quaint coastal town on France's Bay of Biscay.  For some reason we were expecting a Marbella-cum-Newquay type resort but we were pleasantly surprised.  There is big surf and dramatic coastline here, with the Spanish Pyrenees tantalisingly close.  To be fair, as lovely as Biarritz is, there isn't much to do with limited time.  Its all about the beaches, coast and surfing with a few nice restaurants thrown in for good measure.  So here's a few images - the first two are a stone's throw from our balcony:

The surf's up!  Spanish Pyrenees in the hazy distance

A lovely coastal abode, a bit further down the beach

We arrived in beautiful sunshine so we wandered around the coast:

Reminds us of Broadstairs, Kent - in its better days!

Typical Biarritz architecture

We came a cropper a couple of times around the French dejeuner (lunch) - when cafes and restaurants stop serving lunch at anything near 2pm - makes you wonder if they chose the wrong business!  We collected the hire car which was interesting as the office was shut and the 'out of hours' number was unavailable.  Fortunately the guy turned up with our car after about 15 minutes or so - just as well as the next best quote from competitors was double the price - always best to book early!

Agen
We had a good journey from sunny Biarritz and arrived in overcast Agen where we met Mick's cousin, Claire & hubbie Lol.  You wouldn't believe it but we couldn't find the rendezvous - Agen Aqueduct - you can't really miss something like that, can you?  Well, the locals can, apparently!  Despite asking several folk we were none the wiser so we parked at ... a PdP.  You may recall from the canal part of the blog that PdP is an abbreviation for Port de Plaisance, or informal mooring.  We're like moths to a flame!  We smiled when we saw a fleet of Locaboat hire barges (aka bumper boats) - but that's because we're ashore!

The pretty Agen PdP

I hadn't realised that Agen takes you on to the Canal du Midi, which we'd considered cruising through and out onto the Bay of Biscay as a route home.  From here we drove to the nearby Pont du Canal (or aqueduct) which, like that on the Canal de Briare, takes boats over a major river, this time the Garonne.  Agen's pont was built by Eiffel as well but is not quite as ornate - lacking pillars/towers at each end.  It is still beautiful and it took us back to our days in the canals of which the Pont de Canal, Briare was a major highlight.

Riverbank view of Pont de Canal crossing the Garonne

Pont de Canal, Agen close up - compare with pic below

Pont de Canal, Briare

We had a lovely time with Claire & Lol catching up on the news.  We visited at a very important time for them as the municipal elections were taking place at the weekend, the outcome of which is important to them in terms of their plans for a classic car circuit on their land.  For the first time in years there is a viable opposition party to an incumbent Mayor with a 30 year tenure - time to go - hopefully.  Good luck to the new team!  After a lovely home-cooked casserole and several bottles of wine it was time for bed and we retreated to La Cave - a converted store house/cellar which is yet another novel spot for their visitors (you may recall last year we were in the pigeonerie).


Where's the sun gone?!
Since leaving Spain we've lost about 10+ degrees of heat and more sunlight.  We awoke to the sound of rain - not great as we planned to load our stuff that we'd stored at Claire's into the hire car.  The former fruitery has been home to our worldly goods (from the boat) since last September and we'd forgotten the fruitery is big enough to drive into.  But, first, we had to traverse the orchard which went well until ... we hit a quagmire!  There is a spot at the bottom of the hill which had become waterlogged after a very rainy winter and we were well and truly stuck.  Fortunately Claire & Lol being rural landowners have a land rover and tractor so we figured one of those would do the trick.  Lol was there to save the day - what a trooper - cheers Lol! - and in no time at all he'd driven the tractor to meet us, attached the tow lines - to our hire car (ouch if that went wrong!) - and pulled us to terra firma - phew!  With our goods aboard we returned to the house for a warm cuppa.  And that was pretty much the form for the rest of the day as we were rained in, plus Claire & Lol were unwell - a cue to take it easy as we'd been on the road for a while.

All aboard the skylark!

Lol comes to the rescue!

After a few days at Les Calmes, alas it was time to move on and it was recommended that we stop at nearby Cahors, so we said our au revoirs and set off on the next leg of our journey north.

Cahors
The perfect place to stop for a coffee and leg stretch - about an hour or so from Agen and beautiful. Cahors is a medieval town located in the Midi-Pyrenees and capital of the Quercy region.  It straddles the River Lot and its centrepiece is Pont de Valentre, a 14thC fortified bridge that is, apparently, one of France's most photographed sites, and you can see why.  Thanks for the tip Claire & Lol!

The stunning Pont de Valentre, Cahors
Image c/o Tourist Information, Cahors

And here's a more realistic view of weather conditions at the time of our visit. The weir was at full flow with snow and ice melt.  Here too was a lovely little lock which, at this time of year, is inaccessible owing to water levels and flow.

The weir at Pont de Valentre, over River Lot

Chateaudun
Then on to our midway stop of Chateaudun in the picturesque Loire Valley.  Of course, we crossed the Loire at various points during our canal trip - not least via the Pont de Canal de Briare.  We decided upon Chateaudun by simply looking at the map, choosing somewhere midway between Agen and Dunkirk et voila!  We didn't fancy Orleans being a big town but preferred a more rural spot - and you don't get much more rural than Chateaudun.  Apart from a 12thC castle (hence its name) there isn't much here but as we're passing through we figured it didn't matter this time!  It reminded us of parts of Cambridgeshire and Lincolnshire - miles & miles of flat agricultural land with an airbase in the midst of it all.  Still, it was quiet and the hotel was great so no complaints.  We ate at the Buffalo Grill which, whilst winning  no prizes for gastronomy, fitted the bill perfectly - sometimes you need a grilled steak! - and the service was great. 

Thursday 27 March - Chateaudun to Dunkirk
We awoke early to a thick frost and a chilly 3 degrees (sadly not the singers!) which stirred us into action.  We soon warmed up with the car heaters on full blast and had a good journey north towards Paris, around it and further north to Dunkirk.  We passed through the Loiret and Dordogne regions, home to rolling hills which flattened as we drove further north through Picardie, the Somme and Nord-Pas-de-Calais.  We passed huge slag heaps from the once massive coal mining industry in this region - we were moving too fast to get a piccie unfortunately.  But France's largest mining museum is located here - one for the 'to do' list.    http://www.chm-lewarde.com/en/index.html

Further onwards, we started to see familiar place names from the early days of our boat trip: Compiegne, Bethune, Lens, Douai, Cambrai, St Omer, Arques and Bourbourg.  We decided to stop at Bourbourg for lunch and take a walk down memory lane.  Its lovely to recall what we've experienced and achieved together in the last year - unforgettable!  We'll never forget just how wet and vulnerable we felt on this mooring.  No marina security,  no power - just us and Reward - on a village mooring - in the stillness and silence of rural France with the Eberspacher (on board heating) running to dry us out!  The next morning the VNF chap turned up in his trusty van - that was a sight for sore eyes! - to escort us through a series of bridges and locks - and we were on our way ... wondering if we'd missed some vital news, got the date wrong, or were simply the only nutters on the canals!  There wasn't a soul about for a week or so ... and then we met Alan and Carole on She's a Be in Courchelles-sur-Lens - and also glimpsed Splodge for the first time.   

Bourbourg - our first mooring with lock in background

And then onto Dunkirk, a few miles away.  We've booked into a little studio for a few days which is great - well located, clean and comfortable.  Compact and bijou in the words of the great Stephen Fry it is just as well we've become dab hands at being creative with very limited space and cooking facilities - we've learnt that from several of the apartments we've rented.  In fact Reward offers far superior cooking facilities and stowage - boat builders really are masters of design - proof of that is how much we've brought back from Claire's!  As I write we're surrounded by an assortment of bags and boxes - very attractive - well and truly filled to the gunwales! 


Bonjour á Reward!
And then it was time to check on our lovely Reward in the boatyard, where's she's been on the hard standing since last September.  You may recall Skipper flew back to check her over after she'd been transported by road and all was well and, although she was secure, the high winds and generally horrid winter here may have resulted in damage but we're glad to say that all is well.  Its good to see her again ... but maybe not for long.  As I write we're in the process of selling her and so as not to tempt fate I'll say no more! 

Friday 28 March - Dunkirk (and UK!)
Skipper is back in the UK to buy a car and bring her back to transport our stuff back to the UK.  Our tenants move out on 11 April so we'll just about get in before I fly the next day to Malaga for Semana Santa - the grass really doesn't grow under our feet!

So, while Skipjack's away, Anchovy will play and I fancied a decent coffee, heavenly fruit tart and a bit of sightseeing - particularly the beautiful Saint Eloi Belfry, a UNESCO world heritage site and 13thC watch tower, used as such until 1940.  It was once attached to St Eloi Church but a fire in 1558 destroyed the church and the Belfry was separated - officially so since 1782.  She stands at 58m in height with foundations of only 1.70m - the amazing buttresses give it the support it needs. 

St Eloi Belfry with St Eloi church in background

Dunkirk from Belfry - town hall tower and Channel (horizon)

The beautiful St Eloi Church from Belfry

Dunkirk's most famous son is Jean Bart, the privateer who, rarely for a commoner (as opposed to nobility) rose to the rank of Admiral as he was such a successful racketeer.  He is buried in St Eloi church and is commemorated in the central square bearing his name.  The bell tower also rings daily in his memory.

So that's it for now.  Skipper should be back at the weekend with our new(ish) car, after which we plan a couple of days relaxing after an eventful week - in a positive way!  I'll write again soon with a final update. Over & out for now!

¡Hasta la vista España!

20 March - Biarritz
Hello from Biarritz, a lovely coastal town on the French Biscay coast and from where I write my last Spanish blog.  I'll do a separate post about Biarritz and our journey home through France.  For now, though, I'm trying to imagine what I'll do with the time I have spent blogging - a part of daily life over the last year but, moreover, how I'll function without my customary cafe con leche, pan con tomate, pintxos, Ribera, Verdejo, Spanish people and somehow get back into life in the UK - it just seems unthinkable (and unbearable!) 

To help ease the pain I'm reminiscing about the past 6 months in Spain.  You may recall when we left France that we put together a Top 10 of our experiences there so we thought we'd do something similar for Spain.  So here goes, the with the most forgettable at No. 10 (and most unforgettable at No. 1):

10.  Spanish Radio.  We've travelled on a lot of buses and there's often a radio playing so we're a bit of an authority on this.  Sorry guys - your pop music leaves much to be desired, especially the songs that are a fusion of Spanish and Moroccan sounds - Room 101 for you!

9.  Santiago de Compostela - town.   Before we go any further - we don't mean the Cathedral which is really something special - there is a rare, benevolent force at work there.  We also respect that Santiago is hallowed ground for pilgrims and we don't take any of that away from them.  But, other than that, we don't think it has that much to offer apart from some interesting architecture.  The weather is the main bugbear here - it is so damp, cold and dingy for much of the year and it rarely dries.  Damp and mold is a problem here so if you have an allergy to mold (which I do) then you should be aware of that.  We didn't rate the food either - sorry food critics - we don't agree with you.  There are an inordinate amount of beggars - some that use violence - seriously!  So, if you're thinking of a long weekend we'd say don't bother.  Santiago is for pilgrims and other people of faith for which it is unforgettable.

And I know you think I'm biased but they were the only downsides for us during our time in Spain.  And on a brighter note:

8.  The Belen.  It was refreshing to experience a Spanish Christmas and New Year.  Obviously we are in a Catholic country and so the focus is very different.  The Belen is a nativity scene that is on public display and is a much loved part of Spanish Christmas.  Belens are built on show at town halls, churches and some shopping malls.  In some towns and cathedrals there are permanent Belens on display.  There is an Assocation of Belenistas!  Christmas Day (25th) is about the birth of Christ - it is a fairly quiet affair spent with extended family.  No presents are exchanged - that comes on the 12th day of Christmas (6th January), or the Night of Kings who traditionally came bearing gifts to the baby Jesus.  There is a real sense of anticipation which is touching.  Interestingly, there isn't a glitzy house decoration in sight - just the tree, inside. The streets are decorated tastefully by councils so, apart from that, the only house decoration you see is a poster hanging from many balconies of the baby Jesus.  It helps you redefine what Christmas is actually about.

7.  The formidable force that is Las Mayores.  Diminutive in size but huge in their collective impact, Spanish senior citizens are a force of nature and we love them.  They seem to be privy to information that us mere mortals just aren't in on.  We'll never forget seeing them in action at Santiago de Compostela station. We were waiting patiently at the lift for the platform indicator to flag up our departure to Madrid, aware that a couple of others were there before us.  Suddenly a group of 12 or so senior folk were in front of us, fending us off with their maletas (suitcases), filling the lift and they were off.  It was a masterclass in assertiveness - hire them for a corporate workshop and you'd learn a thing or two!

6.5  Las manifestaciónes.  Yes, the Spanish love a strike, rally or march which are an outlet for Spanish disgruntlement.  Rarely a week (at most a fortnight) passes without a manifestación.  Usually fairly ordered gatherings (but not always) they are accompanied by drums, whistles and sometimes a band.  Most are focused on government austerity measures to repair the Spanish economy - known as la crisis - of which you hear talk daily, everywhere and at every level. 

6.  The Paseo.  That most Spanish of pastimes is the Sunday (or bank holiday) paseo.  Dressed smartly, the extended family go out for a walk, usually along a beach, river, park or other central thoroughfare.  The elders are usually arm in arm, then men often in a smart hat or cap.  The abuelos (grandparents) aren't on the periphery though - they play an active part in keeping the younger family in check.  The children are always traditionally dressed - girls in pretty dresses, tights, shoes, quite often with a bow or headband; boys in winter with woolly tights(!), shorts, jumper and smart shoes.  Rarely do you see jeans, trainers, fleeces or anoraks.  Really nice to see.

5.   Fabulous landscape & endless blue skies.  Spain is a vast country with an amazing geography.  We'll never forget lush northern Spain; the mountain ranges; the vast, rolling hills and plains of Castilla-Mancha and Extremadura; the seas, rivers and oceans; the vineyards; the orange groves; Buen Retiro park; and all under the endless Spanish blue sky.  Is it that we're that much closer to the equator and the effect of the full spectrum of light?  Whatever it is that creates those huge, beautiful, azure skies which give us light-starved Brits that rare feel good factor, we'll miss it - big time!

4.  Cathedrals & architecture.  Spain is awash with stunning architecture, so much so that you almost take it for granted.  Every town and city has church(es), cathedral(s) and at least one other stunning landmark. We'll never forget Segovia's aqueduct; the Cathedrals at Santiago, Salamanca, Malaga and Zaragoza; the Plazas Mayor at Salamanca, Caceres and Pamplona; the Mezquita at Cordoba; the Alcazar at Malaga (which we think is better than the hallowed - and packed! - Alhambra); the bull rings; Roman bridges at Zaragoza, Cordoba and Puente la Reina; the castles at Segovia and Olite; the narrow streets of San Sebastian, Pamplona and Cadiz - the list is endless. 

3.  Fiestas/Ferias.  Sadly we didn't get to see too many of these because we arrived in Spain a bit later than planned but those we did see, we'll never forget: the Rioja Wine Festival - where we met our American friends Cathy & Janet; the children's bull run in Pamplona; and I'm about to experience my first Semana Santa (Holy Week, or Easter) in Malaga - with Cathy - OMG!!! - is Malaga ready for us?!  I've decided that I want to visit as many Spanish festivals as I can while it still has them - health & safety may have something to say about rocket men, towers of fire, etc!

2.  Spanish food, beer & wine.  Pintxos, tapas, Estrella Galicia, el aperitivo,  great wines and sherry.   Spain should be proud of its food and wine.  From the humble olive to the finest cuisine, Spain does it very well.   And always based on simple, quality, natural ingredients.  Many food critics think that one of the best places to eat in the world is San Sebastian; we think Pamplona is biting at its heels.  And don't underestimate Galicia and its growing place on the gastronomic map.  We'll never forget Caceres and its Jamón Ibérico Bellota; Cordoba's roasted lamb; Cuenca's venison; San Sebastian's pintxos; La Mancha's sopa de ajo (garlic soup); Valencia's oranges; Andalucia's pan con tomate; the national dessert that is flan (creme caramel); the fabulous coffee; Ribera del Duero; Albarinho; Ribeiro; Manzanilla; Pedro Ximenez; Verdejo; Rioja; Bellota liqueur - the list is equally endless.

and no surprise as to what's straight in at No. 1 and totally unforgettable:

1.  The Spanish.  We are touched by how open and warm the Spanish are.  It should come as no surprise to me - I've known it all along - but it never ceases to amaze me just how kind, helpful and welcoming the Spanish are.  More so in the south but not exclusively.  We met some lovely people in Asturias and Bilbao too.  Perhaps its the role of the extended family and, dare I say, religion?  There is trust and sincerity - an open-heartedness - and its unforgettable.   Whatever it is, it creates a considerate and respectful society - wake up Britain!

We are lucky, too, to have met some great people on our travels.  From those through whom we've rented apartments (Isabel in Pamplona; Juan & Yolanda in Valencia; Inma in Malaga; Martin & David in Estepona; Fran in Jerez; Eva in Cadiz).  Then there's the friends we've made along the way (Cathy & Janet in Logroño; Maribel & Colmar, Manolo, Vonnie & Alec in Estepona; Rafa, Paco & Marie Carmen in Cáceres). 

So, that's it folks - tragically - my last post from Spain!  We hope you've enjoyed our adventures with us and enjoy our journey home through France.  I can tell you as I write that its been eventful already!  So catch up soon for more looney tunes from Pintxo & Tapa!