Las Rubias @ Semana Santa, Malaga - Pt 1

Hello to you all from home in Whitstable, Kent!  Yes, the gap year had to end and we're back home, in our house which we'd rented for a year and which was returned to us in excellent condition - we know we were very lucky.  Apologies, yet again, for the extended delay in publishing this post - it isn't for want of trying - but I couldn't access the admin part of the blog on the iPhone or at the local library's network (what I've been doing whilst awaiting our new home broadband connection).  Plus a busy couple of weeks settling into 'normality' and getting some work organised - but I won't bore you all with that - without further ado here's what you've been waiting for!  There are a few short videos in this post as it really is the only way to bring the essence of Semana Santa to you so bear with me!

Saturday 12 April
I arrived in a warm and sunny Malaga around midday - early enough to enjoy a long-awaited café con leche and a light lunch and soak up the essence of Spain: great food, sun, vivacity with a smidge of organised chaos!  Cathy was due to arrive from the States at 5pm so I had time to reflect on the events which led to my being here: how lucky I've been to have taken a year out in France and Spain; how we'd met at the Rioja Wine Festival on only day two of Mick and I's time in Spain (whilst in a queue for tapas of course) - purely by chance just a few months ago.  It dawned on me that we didn't know one another that well and, momentarily, I wondered if we'd get on OK, but my hunch was that we'd be fine.  As it turned out Cathy and I are share similar tastes and make good travel pals.  In fact we were bad influences for one another as we both love to be where it's at!  The apartment - which Cathy had booked some time before her trip - was perfect: very central, just off the main street, so close enough to be near the action but not directly in the throws of it.  She chose very well but then Cathy has good taste and knows what she wants!  After unpacking and refreshing after her long journey it was time to start the fiesta as Cathy always does - with a glass of Pedro Ximenez - naturally I was happy to oblige!

Enjoying a glass of Malaga Virgen, Antigua Casa de Guardia

The Tapas Trail

Cathy and I believe that one of life's pleasures is eating Spanish style.  Pintxos and tapas are at the heart of Spanish culture, so much so there is a verb tapear (to eat tapas).  For those of you new to tapas its an inspired way to eat: little and often would sum it up.  The locals eat a tapa accompanied with a tapa-size glass of wine or beer and then move onto another bar.  Usually eaten standing up it is quite different to how we dine in the UK, being informal, fun and delicious.  Cathy has a legendary appetite for tapas - she must have hollow legs because she's a slim woman!

So, armed with Cathy's infamous food notes we headed for Bar Orellana.  Nothing can prepare you for the energy and busyness of a good tapas bar - usually 6 deep at the bar yet somehow the amazing waiters know exactly who's ordered what - even if you've moved place which is often the case - a masterclass in customer service! We chose croquetas de jamon (ham croquettes), habas con Serrano (fava-type beans with Serrano ham), legrita de  bacalao (smoked cod fillet in a little roll) served with Cathy's favourite: Rioja Crianza and my new favourite, Verdejo (a white Rioja-like wine from Valladolid).  Happy days!

Then to nearby Souvi which offers contemporary tapas and, despite the good reviews, it was average - a case of the food being style over content and sold at a premium.  We did, though, discover a lovely red wine - Chinchilla seis + seis from nearby Ronda - all was not lost. Suffice to say that Souvi has been scratched from the list!  We wandered through the busy streets and a little later we found ourselves in a bar that was to become one of our favourites, La Campana.  Cathy was 'starving' again and so we ordered tortalita de camarones (battered shrimp fritter), calamaritos (battered shrimp tails), aceitunas (olives) and more wine and with full bellies we decided it was probably best to have an earlyish night.  Cathy's body clock was on US time and we had to be up and ready for an early procession tomorrow and, rather sensibly, we were tucked up by midnight.

Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday)
We were up early and over a working breakfast planned the day ahead.  Cathy already had a good idea of the day's processions and our local church - San Juan Bautista (St John the Baptist) and its cofradía - Fusioniadas - was on the list.  Literally down the street from the apartment it was one not to miss so we were there at 10.30am by the side entrance - two huge timber doors with a ramp down to street level.  The anticipation was palpable and we waited patiently among the hordes jostling for a good view - it was all good-natured - no pushing, shoving or cursing!  We heard the occasional crash and thud from inside the church as the cofradia edged into position  inside the tiny church.  And then it was action stations!  Here's the costaleros (throne carriers) led by the capataz (wearing a veil-like hood which doesn't cover his face and who shouts directions - listen out for him shouting... "un poquito a la izquierda" (a little to the left) and "... a la derecha (to the right)".  And of course you see and hear the iconic shuffle as the men manoeuvre the trono into position.  I couldn't believe the amount of people and regalia that filed out of such a small church - for Dr Who fans the church was of Tardis proportions!  And here it is - the trono arrives at the door in all its glory to the adulation of the crowds:

And so the cofradía set off to carry their Virgin atop her throne - all day - around the city - stopping about every 50-100 metres for a rest, accompanied by the bell signals and directions from the capataz.  Now if that isn't entertainment I don't know what is!  Multiply that by seven (the other cofradías processing that day around the city) and you can imagine the planning that goes into Semana Santa.  Each cofradía has its own route but all go down the main street - Marques de Larios - which has chairs the entire length of the road - 4 deep each side - with a raised stall around its main town square - Plaza de la Constitucion - where Mick and I saw in the New Year!  We spotted Frank and Mike in the crowd who are friends of Cathy she'd met on Trip Advisor and we arranged to meet them later at the church for the trono's homecoming - not be missed apparently.

And see if you can spot the gorgeous Antonio Banderas (and, sadly, Melanie) in the video below.  Antonio is a proud Malagueño and member (we believe) of this cofradía.  At the very least it is his family's church and Malaga welcomes him with open arms - and so would Cathy and I given the chance!  Indeed, he is very much involved with Malaga's Semana Santa in that he reads the Easter story with a contemporary twist.

After all the excitement it was almost time for lunch and we managed to find a spare table at Meson Cervantes and which was on Cathy's food list!  We enjoyed ensalada malaguena (a salad of bacalao, orange and potatoes in olive oil and herbs); flamenquin de jamon Serrano (a type of oven-baked croquette); and mixed grilled veggies - with our usual wines - delicious!  And, with full bellies once more, it was time for Cathy's siesta - a case of trying to get into European time.


And then I heard the bells and great music near the apartment and, from our window, I could see our local church's trono - at rest - in its final approach to the church.  Look at how close we were - I was so excited - and I loved the use of percussion to build the anticipation and, of course, the bells to signal 'down' for rest:

Taking the weight off their shoulders: weary costaleros at rest

And the bell rings and they're off again with the task of getting the trono through the narrow street with an overhanging building to negotiate.  Look at how they shift the trono diagonally - a masterclass in team work and madness in that unique Spanish way!  You'll hear instructions from the capataz, e.g. "ahora" (now) and "andamos" (let's walk).  Some have to use the right-hand wall for support!

And then I spotted Mike and Frank in the crowds and we thought it'd be nice just to wander the streets and soak up the atmosphere - and a glass of wine!  We eventually found a table at Cotijo de Pepe at Plaza de Merced which was great: a very traditional restaurant and we shared albondigas (meatballs); brocheta solomillo de cerdo (skewer of pork sirloin in a Malaga Virgen salsa); ensalada de aguacate (avocado salad) and more flamenquin (oven-baked croquettes).  We had a great evening.

However, Las Rubias had a bit more fuel in the tank and we decided to follow another cofradía - Prendimiento - on their return journey.  If you thought Fusionadas were impressive - and they were - wait 'til you see this!  As a local guy put it "its where their Virgin and Jesus meet up and recognise one another" (after doing separate routes that day).  And as Cathy said, its pure theatre!  Oh, and this was at 2am!

And in case you thought that was it there's the grand finale - the encierro (close) - an orchestration of drama and logistical mastery where the tronos are reversed into the templo/casa!  For some reason my video can't be uploaded - techie problems - I hope to bring this to you shortly but in the meantime will leave that to your imagination!

And that would seem to be a good place to finish this post.  I'll fill you in on the next couple of days at Semana Santa very soon so tune in soon!