Malaga - a visit to Ronda

Tuesday 10 December - Ronda
We were up with the lark today to meet with Ken & Katie with whom we cruised a fair part of the French canals - you may remember their boat was called "Stardust".  They rent an apartment in Fuengirola for the winter - this is their second year of doing so - and as they're so near to us we thought it would be good to meet up again and explore the Andalucian gem that is Ronda.

We decided to go by train as Katie is nervous of the hairpin bends and mountain roads - we've no beef with that - so we let the train take the strain and enjoyed the amazing scenery from the comfort of the carriage.  It was quite a long journey and 2 hours later we arrived in Ronda and the first thing that struck us was how  chilly it was in comparison with Malaga - about 4-5 degrees cooler with a stiff breeze - brrrr! - glad I brought my trusty beret! 

A short taxi ride to the Plaza de Espana where you can appreciate the impact of the mighty Serrania de Ronda which embrace Ronda (Ronda translates as 'surrounded').  And then there's the 100m fissure of El Tajo gorge - truly spectacular.  Very dramatic scenery indeed.

El Tajo Gorge, Ronda

A view in landscape with the Serrania de Ronda in background

I read in my indispensable Lonely Planet that the Plaza de Espana was put on the world map as it features in Ernest Hemingway's "For Whom the Bell Tolls'.  A chapter therein is based on events that took place here and captures one of the many horrors of the Spanish Civil War.  It was here - outside the ayuntamiento (town hall - now the classy Parador* de Ronda) that a group of 'fascists' were rounded up, beaten, forced to walk the gauntlet through two rows of people before being thrown off the mighty bridge, which brings me to the next major landmark here: el Puente Nuevo which separates the old and new towns.

El Puente Nuevo

*  paradors are a network of luxury hotels throughout Spain which were former national buildings/palaces

From here we wandered into the Old Town where Ken and I visited a Municipal Art Gallery and enjoyed some excellent paintings by local artists capturing on canvass the changing times in Spain with traditional and modern scenes - some combining the two.  Some paintings were so detailed and bright - almost like a photograph - except you could see the brushstrokes.  An envied talent.  Onwards through the town and  we came across the ancient city walls and, after all that walking, we decided we needed sustenance.


We found a lovely Spanish restaurant - El Bodegon de Dona Pena - where we enjoyed a nice, warming lunch and bottle of Rondadeviejo which we would recommend if you can find it in the UK.  Ronda produces some lovely reds, not dissimilar to Rioja.

The crew at the very Spanish El Bodegon de Dona Pena

And that just about wraps up our day in Ronda as there are limited trains in an out of Ronda so late in the year.  Sadly, we didn't get the chance to visit the Plaza de Toros (bullring) which is one of the oldest and most revered in Spain as it is home to legendary bullfights, including those by the infamous Pedro Romero.

So, back down through the dramatic mountain scenery we travelled to Malaga where we said our hasta prontos as we're meeting up with Ken & Katie next week before we fly home to the UK for Christmas - we can't believe how quickly that's come around!  So, thanks to Ken & Katie for a memorable day in Ronda - we look forward to seeing them in Fuengirola next week.  And that's our news for now so until the next post, over & out shipmates!