Sunday, 15 December 2013

Malaga - historic landmarks

Hello to you all from Malaga where we've been for nearly 2 weeks.  It is the only city on the aptly named Costa del Sol and a very Andalucian one at that.  There is a real hustle, bustle about the place and it is, for me, the first real taste of what I consider to be Spain without wanting to be too stereotypical.  We both feel we're on holiday - the sun has a lot to do with that (most days 18 degrees in the sun) and, although Malaga is cosmopolitan it still retains a strong Spanish identity - ole!

The malaguenos (Malaga residents) are well-heeled folk who take pride in their appearance - you rarely see them dip below smart-casual, especially in the upmarket Malagueta area where we are fortunate enough to have found an apartment.  The whole family don their Sunday best for the paseo and visits to their abuelos (grandparents) and tios (aunts & uncles) - a glimpse of a society where extended family plays a very important role in everyday life.  The malaguenos are sociable - always out with friends and family shopping, strolling arm in arm, enjoying a coffee, aperitif or tapa.  Again, the weather has a lot to do with it but, whatever the reason, folk are generally more open here than anywhere we've seen in Spain so far.

Landmarks
As most of you know, I'm happy to be in Spain (especially here!) and in a small way being part of the scene so sight-seeing was Mick's choice - whatever he wants to do is fine - it's his holiday too!  First up for him will always be a marina, castle or other fortification and we soon found ourselves climbing the challenging Paseo de Don Juan de Temboury, on approach to Castillo de Gibralfaro - an 8thC remnant of Malaga's Islamic past and which provides panoramic views over the city.  It was rebuilt in the 14thC and served as a lighthouse and military barracks.  You pass through some lovely gardens/terraces en route to the remaining ramparts - as we've come to appreciate (and expect) from the great Islamic architects.

Terraced gardens on approach to Gibralfaro



The mighty Plaza de Toros from the Gibralfaro
Malaga port from aloft!
Alcazaba - Mick had trouble remembering the name of this landmark and nick-named it "Al Kebab" which has stuck!  This palace cum fortress dates from the 11thC and provides a lovely walk through beautifully designed gardens.  We really enjoyed the tranquillity of Al Kebab and some of the shapes and design features are stunning.

Alcazaba from street level
 



 
We were also honoured to see a local resident - the red squirrel (although he was more a rich, chocolate-brown colour).  They are naturally wary so it was quite a treat to see one so close.

Keep running ...

Cathedral
The architects of this cathedral bit off more than they could chew!  Over-ambitious size and design meant that construction had to be halted once until, later in 1782, it was decided that building work should cease.  As a result there is only one bell tower and is how it has become known by the malaguenos as La Manquita (the one-armed lady).  Today it has 15 chapels, heaps of priceless religious artwork, domed ceilings (plural - I lost count at 15!) all 40m in height and then there's the colossal organ!  Photos can never capture the 'wow' factor or incredible beauty of such buildings but here's one or two:

The magnificent organ
A sense of scale - pillars & a few of the domes!

View of the cathedral to include the single bell tower
This post pretty much sums up the major architectural landmarks in Malaga but fear not - there's much more to report!  I'll be writing separate posts about art & cafe culture and Christmas Malaga-style so tune in soon!

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