Christmas - Malaga style

Hello to you all from Malaga where we've enjoyed the last couple of weeks. We were fortunate to find a lovely studio garden flat in the Malagueta district which was perfect: modern (but in a traditional Spanish apartment block), very clean and comfortable and well-located for regular walks to the beach and city centre (with good bus services if we were feeling lazy).  We were also lucky to meet the lovely Inma who owns the studio and lives alongside in a bigger apartment with her family and four-legged friend Muffin!  Inma was the perfect host - giving us our independence as well as tips and friendship - including preparing Mick some soups as he was under par with man flu - oops, sorry - a cold!

Mick with his furry friend, Muffin!

So, with Christmas around the corner, I wanted to share with you a post about Christmas, Spanish style.  Of course, Christmas Day is celebrated (la navidad) but gifts are not exchanged until 6 January (Day of the Kings) which falls on the 12th day of Christmas.  So the two celebrations are quite separate - 25 December is the main celebration and very distinct from prezzie day on 6 January - it makes you remember just what Christmas is about.


In the run up to Christmas the belens (nativity scenes) are on display for all to see all over the city and some are truly magnificent.  There are queues waiting to get a glimpse and families visit and spend time looking and discussing the belens - really touching to see.  This is a scene in a series of five - the whole belen measuring in at some 20'-25' in length - each scene representing the progression of Christmas - on display at the ayuntamiento (town hall).  The last time I saw something like this was at primary school.

The nativity scene at the ayuntamiento, Malaga

And here's the belen in the Cathedral:

The Cathedral's belen

And then there's the Christmas lights.  The main street here is Calle Marques de Larios (Malaga's equivalent of Regent Street).  Well, what can I say except 'Regent Street eat your heart out!'  It was literally packed with people as the lights were switched on.

Christmas lights

And where would we be without a Christmas concert?  Well, we couldn't find a carol concert but we did go to a fabulous (free!) performance of Puccini's Messa di Gloria by the Malaga Philharmonic & Choral Opera at the Cathedral - what a gig!  Literally full to the gunwales (unlike the mass beforehand!) it was truly beautiful.  Here's a clip of the opening movement and main chorus - enjoy!

So, all that remains for us to say is thanks for all your friendship, support, comments and emails over the year - its made all the difference to know that friends & family are with us on our gap year for oldies!  We've missed you all and will catch up with some of you over Christmas.  In any case, we'll sign off by saying 'Merry Christmas and all best wishes for 2014' or, as they say in Spanish, !feliz navidad y buenos deseos por 2014!

Malaga - arts & cafe culture

Spanish Cafe Culture
As many of you know I'm never happier than when stopping for a coffee (and possibly a pastry!) and to take the opportunity to people-watch.  Mick is a convert too - in fact he usually suggests stopping for a coffee before me (although it might be for a ciggie rather than the coffee!)  It's one of our daily pleasures and ir de cafe (to go out for coffee) is part of everyday Spanish life.  All tastes and pockets are catered for from the worker's bar/cafe where an early morning cortado and cognac might be consumed, to the hubbub of the local cafe and the bistro-style cafe/restaurants.  We are amazed to see that the cities are introducing Nespresso cafes for your upmarket, stylish fix.  Somewhat dubiously I tried it and, for me, the coffee lacks that bite which is what coffee is about.  Overall I think Nespresso and its outlets are very much style over content but a marketing dream.  Try it - you might like it - amazingly, the young, hip Spanidards are falling for it - or are they looking out for George Clooney?

On our weekly tumble-drying day (yawn!) we like nothing more than to decamp to the nearby Cafe Pelayo where the volume from chit-chat is, for me, quintessentially Spanish.  The waiters are very attentive - attending to the women's orders and politely addressing their male clientele - its lovely to see that customer service still exists (sadly long gone in the UK!)  

Later in our stay we stumbled across this very popular, traditional bar/cafe - you know you're in Andalucia when you see this type of place:

The Malaga institution that is Casa Lola

And then there's Pimpi - frequented by the likes of that handsome malagueno, Antonio Banderas, various celebs, world leaders, including Tony Blair (you can always rely on him to be somewhere that he can be seen!)  The infamous Pintxo & Tapa will be added to the long list of high-end clientele tomorrow when we have our 'goodbye to Malaga' drinks and tapas.

The beautiful portico at Pimpi

We loved Bar/cafe El Jardin where we enjoyed a glass or two before the concert at the Cathedral.  Apparently, pianists turn up unannounced and knock out a few numbers for the clientele and it often turns out to be a bit of a sing-song but, sadly, we were there a little early for that pleasure.

Salud! from El Jardin

Arts in Malaga
There's a thriving arts scene here but we are still a little over-galleried from Madrid so we were very selective as to which we visited.  You can't come to Malaga without visiting the Museo de Picasso, Malaga.  Picasso was born here and, as you can imagine, it advertises the fact.  The museo presents a small collection of Picasso's work which has been donated by his family and shows the more personal side of his life and relationships.  It was a pleasure to see.  We also happened upon the Casa Natal (Picasso's birthplace) which is now a shrine to him and, whilst not really our scene, it is open to free visits on Sundays and we just happened to be in the right place at the right time.  As nice as it was, we're glad we didn't pay for the pleasure!  Outside in the Plaza Merced there is a bronze statue of Picasso sitting on a bench - I couldn't resist a shot with the Maestro!

The Maestro and me in Plaza Merced

Whilst not very Spanish we visited a little theatre called La Termica to see a photographic exhibition entitled 'Hollywood' by American photographer, Sid Avery and is a collection of b&w portraits of Hollywood Stars in their homes and with their families.  It was wonderful and housed in a beautiful building in that famous Andalucian style.

Outside the Exhibition Room at La Termica

Flamenco
I know you're thinking - 'hang on, what about flamenco'.  Well, I've resisted the temptation to go to the Flamenco Museum, preferring to see a live performance and whilst Malaga has a very respectable pedigree, there's nowhere better to see flamenco than in Cadiz and Jerez which is where we're heading early next year.  In fact, we're planning to go to the Feria in Jerez late February so more of flamenco later in the blog.  In the meantime, here's a taster of some flamenco and sevillana accessories - now where else would you see a shop like this - fans priced from euro 140 upwards!

A taste of flamenco

And that about wraps up our arts & cafe culture post.  Hope you enjoyed it and I'll leave you with a little paso doble Malaga style!

Malaga - historic landmarks

Hello to you all from Malaga where we've been for nearly 2 weeks.  It is the only city on the aptly named Costa del Sol and a very Andalucian one at that.  There is a real hustle, bustle about the place and it is, for me, the first real taste of what I consider to be Spain without wanting to be too stereotypical.  We both feel we're on holiday - the sun has a lot to do with that (most days 18 degrees in the sun) and, although Malaga is cosmopolitan it still retains a strong Spanish identity - ole!

The malaguenos (Malaga residents) are well-heeled folk who take pride in their appearance - you rarely see them dip below smart-casual, especially in the upmarket Malagueta area where we are fortunate enough to have found an apartment.  The whole family don their Sunday best for the paseo and visits to their abuelos (grandparents) and tios (aunts & uncles) - a glimpse of a society where extended family plays a very important role in everyday life.  The malaguenos are sociable - always out with friends and family shopping, strolling arm in arm, enjoying a coffee, aperitif or tapa.  Again, the weather has a lot to do with it but, whatever the reason, folk are generally more open here than anywhere we've seen in Spain so far.

Landmarks
As most of you know, I'm happy to be in Spain (especially here!) and in a small way being part of the scene so sight-seeing was Mick's choice - whatever he wants to do is fine - it's his holiday too!  First up for him will always be a marina, castle or other fortification and we soon found ourselves climbing the challenging Paseo de Don Juan de Temboury, on approach to Castillo de Gibralfaro - an 8thC remnant of Malaga's Islamic past and which provides panoramic views over the city.  It was rebuilt in the 14thC and served as a lighthouse and military barracks.  You pass through some lovely gardens/terraces en route to the remaining ramparts - as we've come to appreciate (and expect) from the great Islamic architects.

Terraced gardens on approach to Gibralfaro

The mighty Plaza de Toros from the Gibralfaro

Malaga port from aloft!

Alcazaba - Mick had trouble remembering the name of this landmark and nick-named it "Al Kebab" which has stuck!  This palace cum fortress dates from the 11thC and provides a lovely walk through beautifully designed gardens.  We really enjoyed the tranquillity of Al Kebab and some of the shapes and design features are stunning.

Alcazaba from street level

 

 

We were also honoured to see a local resident - the red squirrel (although he was more a rich, chocolate-brown colour).  They are naturally wary so it was quite a treat to see one so close.

Keep running ...

Cathedral
The architects of this cathedral bit off more than they could chew!  Over-ambitious size and design meant that construction had to be halted once until, later in 1782, it was decided that building work should cease.  As a result there is only one bell tower and is how it has become known by the malaguenos as La Manquita (the one-armed lady).  Today it has 15 chapels, heaps of priceless religious artwork, domed ceilings (plural - I lost count at 15!) all 40m in height and then there's the colossal organ!  Photos can never capture the 'wow' factor or incredible beauty of such buildings but here's one or two:

The magnificent organ

A sense of scale - pillars & a few of the domes!

View of the cathedral to include the single bell tower

This post pretty much sums up the major architectural landmarks in Malaga but fear not - there's much more to report!  I'll be writing separate posts about art & cafe culture and Christmas Malaga-style so tune in soon!

Malaga - a visit to Ronda

Tuesday 10 December - Ronda
We were up with the lark today to meet with Ken & Katie with whom we cruised a fair part of the French canals - you may remember their boat was called "Stardust".  They rent an apartment in Fuengirola for the winter - this is their second year of doing so - and as they're so near to us we thought it would be good to meet up again and explore the Andalucian gem that is Ronda.

We decided to go by train as Katie is nervous of the hairpin bends and mountain roads - we've no beef with that - so we let the train take the strain and enjoyed the amazing scenery from the comfort of the carriage.  It was quite a long journey and 2 hours later we arrived in Ronda and the first thing that struck us was how  chilly it was in comparison with Malaga - about 4-5 degrees cooler with a stiff breeze - brrrr! - glad I brought my trusty beret! 

A short taxi ride to the Plaza de Espana where you can appreciate the impact of the mighty Serrania de Ronda which embrace Ronda (Ronda translates as 'surrounded').  And then there's the 100m fissure of El Tajo gorge - truly spectacular.  Very dramatic scenery indeed.

El Tajo Gorge, Ronda

A view in landscape with the Serrania de Ronda in background

I read in my indispensable Lonely Planet that the Plaza de Espana was put on the world map as it features in Ernest Hemingway's "For Whom the Bell Tolls'.  A chapter therein is based on events that took place here and captures one of the many horrors of the Spanish Civil War.  It was here - outside the ayuntamiento (town hall - now the classy Parador* de Ronda) that a group of 'fascists' were rounded up, beaten, forced to walk the gauntlet through two rows of people before being thrown off the mighty bridge, which brings me to the next major landmark here: el Puente Nuevo which separates the old and new towns.

El Puente Nuevo

*  paradors are a network of luxury hotels throughout Spain which were former national buildings/palaces

From here we wandered into the Old Town where Ken and I visited a Municipal Art Gallery and enjoyed some excellent paintings by local artists capturing on canvass the changing times in Spain with traditional and modern scenes - some combining the two.  Some paintings were so detailed and bright - almost like a photograph - except you could see the brushstrokes.  An envied talent.  Onwards through the town and  we came across the ancient city walls and, after all that walking, we decided we needed sustenance.


We found a lovely Spanish restaurant - El Bodegon de Dona Pena - where we enjoyed a nice, warming lunch and bottle of Rondadeviejo which we would recommend if you can find it in the UK.  Ronda produces some lovely reds, not dissimilar to Rioja.

The crew at the very Spanish El Bodegon de Dona Pena

And that just about wraps up our day in Ronda as there are limited trains in an out of Ronda so late in the year.  Sadly, we didn't get the chance to visit the Plaza de Toros (bullring) which is one of the oldest and most revered in Spain as it is home to legendary bullfights, including those by the infamous Pedro Romero.

So, back down through the dramatic mountain scenery we travelled to Malaga where we said our hasta prontos as we're meeting up with Ken & Katie next week before we fly home to the UK for Christmas - we can't believe how quickly that's come around!  So, thanks to Ken & Katie for a memorable day in Ronda - we look forward to seeing them in Fuengirola next week.  And that's our news for now so until the next post, over & out shipmates!

Malaga - a trip to Nerja

Hello to you all from Nerja, a lovely Spanish town on the Costa del Sol and which is close to my heart.

A bit of history ...
Mum and I first learned of Nerja many years ago whilst watching the TV institution that was "Wish You Were Here", prior to the days when the internet revolutionised the travel industry.  Back then, Nerja was a sleepy fishing village in the process of being discovered and developed for tourism and, fortunately, high rises are not allowed along this stretch of the coast so, although the town has expanded to accommodate the North European's love for a piece of Nerja, the villas and apartments are, mas o menos (more or less) in keeping with the Andalucian style.

My brother and I treated Mum for her birthday to a week's holiday here about 25 years ago and we both loved it.  We did our own thing much of the day as Mum isn't a sun worshipper but we always met up for a coffee at the end of the day at Bar Anahi and it's still there today plying it's trade from a knockout, clifftop location.  It was here that I learned of a language school and when back in the UK, with the help of my lovely Spanish-speaking friend, Laura (hola Lau!), I put together an application to study a 2-week diploma course in Nerja.

I returned to the school in 1995 and stayed with a lovely Spanish woman - Asuncion - and her family.  They were lovely and had received students for years and, as it turned out, Asuncion was a very special lady indeed.  Yes, some of you know that I didn't get to complete the diploma as Dad died really suddenly.  It turned out that Asuncion was a faith healer and she took care of me in my hour of need until I could get home to help my brother and Mum.  So, a bitter-sweet connection with Nerja and definitely unfinished business and is how my interest in getting some kind of Spanish qualification started.  Its taken some time but the interest has never waned and with the help of Lau, Leticia and Catherine (my Spanish teachers in Whitstable) I managed to bag an A level.  Quite what I'll do with the language when Mick and I return home next year I'm not sure but it will form part of my working future.

So, fast forward 10 years and Mick and I returned for a long weekend to celebrate our wedding anniversary.  Mick fell prey to the charms of Nerja and is why we revisited today.  Whilst here 10 years ago we happened upon Asuncion's house.  A neighbour came out of a nearby house and I inquired of Asuncion and if she was still living here.  The neighbour turned out to be her sister-in-law and she remembered me too.  So, I plucked up the courage to knock on Asuncion's door and, within seconds, she remembered me and invited us in for a drink and a chat.  And whilst we were there a baby was brought to her with colic and she did her healing and the baby just stopped crying, in front of our eyes.  An amazing and very special woman indeed and I was blessed to have met her.

Saturday 7 December - Nerja
So, here we are again today and the sun is shining.  We just thought we'd have a look around and enjoy the coastline.  At one point you could walk about 5km uninterrupted around the coast but only parts are accessible today but, hey, what a view!

The stunning view from The Balcon de Europa, Nerja

In fact, on walking around it appears that Nerja has had a face lift.  It was looking a bit tired when Mick and I visited 10 years ago but its definitely been spruced up - good to see as it really is a pretty place.

Whilst here, we couldn't resist that Andalucian speciality - sopa de mariscos y pescados (shellfish & fish soup) served out of a terrine - how very Spanish!

Que aproveche de Nerja!

So, apart from a bit of Christmas shopping (in the sun) that just about wraps up our visit to Nerja.  Tune in soon for our post on Ronda, another dramatic clifftop town.

Murcia region: Murcia City & Mar Menor

Hello to our readers.  This post is about a couple of day trips from Cartagena - we don't stop long enough to let the grass grow!

Sunday 1 December - Murcia City
As you know we've been based in Cartagena where, today, we awoke to rain for the first time since Santiago de Compostela (which was an overnight shower).  Not that we deny Spain its very much needed rainfall but we didn't fancy a beach-based day at Mar Menor (as planned) so headed inland to nearby Murcia City, the provincial capital of the Murcia region, in case we needed to take shelter from the rain.  As it turned out it was sunny and warm there - perfect!

We started with the Lonely Planet's top recommended sight, the Real Casino de Murcia which first opened in 1847 as a Gentlemen's Club and later fully restored to its original splendour and officially reopened by King Juan Carlos II in 2009 - and it's a beauty!  Lowly visitors are only allowed on the ground floor whilst the first floor is reserved for the business of gambling and members.   A couple of adjectives spring to mind: opulent, resplendent, grandiose... combining a dazzling Moorish-style patio, a classic English-style library complete with 20,000 books (including some from the 17thC), a fabulous ballroom with glittering chandeliers and a lush tocador (ladies powder room) - a glimpse of a bygone age.

Moorish style entrance hall

The library

We also visited the Cathedral but it was so dark inside that we couldn't see much of its grandeur so here's a shot of the exterior.

Murcia Cathedral

And apart from a wander around town that wraps up our visit to Murcia City.  Not that we didn't enjoy it but, being a Sunday, quite a few things are closed and it wasn't that warm so we figured we'd head back to Cartagena for some tapas.

Monday 2 December - Mar Menor & Cabo de Palos
The sun was shining for a trip down memory lane.  My Dad used to live in nearby St Javier and ran a tapas bar on the La Manga Strip and we couldn't visit this part of Spain without checking out some old haunts.  The Mar Menor is an inland sea/lake created by the presence of La Manga (the sleeve) - a long strip of land that has been compared with Florida - the main drag being surrounded by hotels, holiday homes for tourists and Spaniards and lots of watering holes along the way.  One side of the La Manga is the Med - the other (inner side) is the Mar Menor.  You may have heard of it as this is where the fairly recent series of Superstars was played out as it is a warm, shallow inland sea which makes it ideal for the watersports events.  In fact, Dad used to help people learn to windsurf there.  La Manga is also famous for the nearby holiday and golf complex.

The stillness that is the Mar Menor

And the motion of the Med

Mick & I didn't expect Dad's Bar Utopia to be here after 25+ years but you never know!  My memories are a bit hazy as to exactly where it was - too much partying that week with Dad! - so I had to check with my brother as to which end of the La Manga strip it was - he never forgets!  Sadly we couldn't find it and on checking with a couple of nearby bars they didn't know where it was either.  We did, though, find some other old haunts - Jimmy's Bar and the Crazy Rabbit - those happy, if somewhat hedonistic days!

And after all that excitement we felt in the need for a bit of Spanish culture so headed to nearby Cabo de Palos, a quaint fishing village where we had a nice lunch and lifted a glass or two for Dad and his indomitable 'have a go' spirit - cheers Dad!

One of Dad's favourite places, the quaint Cabo de Palos

So, after a lovely day in the sun it was time to head back to Cartagena to prepare for the next leg of our trip to Malaga, a classy and very Spanish provincial city in Andalucia.  We decided to hire a car as the public transport options were far too long and drawn out!  Tune in soon for some Andalucian ambience!

Murcia region: Cartagena

We hope this post finds you well as we hear of bad weather in Northern Europe, including the East Coast of Britain - as far down as Broadstairs, Kent.  We're sorry for the short delay since our last update - the downside of being on the move.

This post relates to our time in Cartagena, the archaeological gem of the Murcia region - at the southern tip of Valencia - and a good stop en route southwards to the sun.  We travelled by train which was OK if not a bit slow (4 hours) so there wasn't much to do upon arrival except check-in to our hotel and hit the town's medieval fayre.  We'll be based here for 4 nights as it has good connections for visits to nearby Murcia City and Mar Menor (see separate post).

Medieval Fair
The fair was in town for 3 days so tonight was a taster of what was on offer - plus we needed a walk after being on the train for so long.  We were surprised by how big it was - almost covering the entire town - so we didn't get to see it all.  It is one of the biggest fairs of its kind we've seen and all types of quality, regional foods (including a strong Galician contingent) were on offer along with lovely crafts and trinkets - even a photo with birds of prey from a nearby refuge - to include the fabulous Golden Eagle. 

We were very tempted to try some suckling pig but we didn't have too much of an appetite so settled for a savoury crepe and some baked calabaza (pumpkin) - lovely!  Then back to the hotel for a couple of nightcaps.

How many ways can you eat pork?

We spent other evenings sampling tapas, including those at the fabulous La Tartana - a traditional Spanish restaurant and Cartagena institution - full of locals - just how we like it.

Enjoying tapas at the fabulous La Tartana

Marina & nauticalia
Another reason we chose Cartagena was its harbour and naval history - cue Mick!  It was lovely to see the sea once more - we can never leave it too long! - but we were surprised by the lack of naval presence in the harbour - a sign of changing war games I guess.  We did try and visit the Naval Museum but it had very limited opening hours so we resigned ourselves to a couple of jaunts around the marina and harbour.  We did track down a submarine designed and built by Cartagena Navy man Isaac Peral and launched in 1888.  This was the first submarine to navigate and fire torpedoes whilst underwater.  Popular opinion is that the submarine would've revolutionised the Spanish Navy and all was going well until a damning report rejected the project - apparently down to petty jealousies of Peral's success and fame.

The Peral Submarine, Cartagena

Archaeological Heritage
Some of you may be thinking: 'hang on, you haven't mentioned the archaeological museums'.  Well, I'm afraid we're heathens in that department.  'Sacrilege!' I hear you cry.  We did tussle with our consciences on this one as you feel somewhat obliged to take advantage of what an area is famed for - but we just don't like looking at a load of crumbling ruins - however well they're presented!  For those of you that do, Cartagena has a growing reputation for its rich archaeological heritage as it continues to peel back the layers of its history: Phoenician, Roman, Carthaginian, Moorish and Christian - and if this is your bag then we recommend you visit Cartagena. 

So, that wraps up our stay in Cartagena.  See next post for our visits to Murcia City and Mar Menor (where my Dad used to live and have a tapas bar).  In the meantime, we hope you're well and getting ready for Christmas.  I'm sure my friend Helen (aka Mrs Christmas) has got it all wrapped already!

A taste of Valencian culture

Hello readers, sorry for the slight delay in updating you.  We left Valencia last weekend after 3 weeks.  There's a couple of facets of Valencian food and culture that I thought you'd like to see.

Dance & Music
On any given Sunday there is a display of Valencian music and dance in the nearby Plaza de la Virgen - here's a clip.

Demonstrations
It seems that not a day passes without a manifestacion (demonstration) for one cause or another.  To date we've seen one or more a week, e.g. petitions for equal pay for women, marches against cuts in disability services but the most poignant for us was a march against cuts in public health services and petitioning for homes for everyone - we just caught the back end of the march.  All sounds very familiar to readers in the UK but the difference here is the Spanish actually get out and protest about things - if only the Brits were more outspoken.  

Food glorious food!
There's nothing more typical in Valencian life then a visit to the stunning Mercado Central where you can buy fabulous fruit, veg, fish, meat, spices, bread, patisseries, etc.  I'm never happier than wandering a Spanish market taking in the fabulous displays - the Spanish take pride in what they produce and sell.  Still savouring our delicious paellas, tapas and calabaza (baked pumpkin - delicious!) I'd been meaning to try another Valencian speciality - horchata - a cold drink made from ground tiger nuts served with - wait for it - fartons - a cake which resembles a finger doughnut.  I have to say Mick and I took a sip each and left it on the counter - it was awful - quite medicinal in taste.  We did, though, share a farton!

In the market, psyching myself up for horchata & farton!

Buenissimos jamones

The best 'til last!
Our lovely host, Juan, wanted to take us out on our last night - there's no better way to see real Spain than with a local.  He took us to two typical Spanish eateries - Tasca Angel - a buzzing tapas bar where we tried some Valencian wines, sardines & boquerones (our favourite!)  In typical Spanish style we moved on to a restaurant/wine bar called Las Cuevas - if only I'd taken my camera!  It is a well-known fact that digestion begins with the eyes - well - this place made tapas an art form - beautifully presented regional food with a contemporary twist.   

A special church
Juan also showed us an extraordinary church - La Patriarcha - which doubles as arguably the best, yet little known, art gallery in Valencia.  It is still a working church in a former seminary and is like a mini Sistine Chapel - the bottom half of the walls are covered in beautiful ceramic tiles whilst the top half is painted with beautiful religious artwork.  La Patriarcha was founded by San Joan Ribera and the museum contains priceless artworks by some of the great masters.  Ribera changed Valencia forever and, as such was made Archbishop and Viceroy of Valencia, beatified and finally canonised in 1960. 

We spent a lovely evening with Juan and we look forward to meeting him again.

So, that's it from Valencia - we've had a wonderful time there and our next post will be from Cartagena in the Murcia region so, until then, hasta pronto!