Sunday, 24 November 2013

Valencia - around & about the Old City

Hola de Valencia where we're still enjoying a daily average temperature of 17 degrees (in the sun).  However, out of the sun there's a real chill to the air so winter - as Valencia knows it - is coming. This post is about the buildings and landmarks we've visited over the last week or so so sit back and enjoy a virtual tour.

Valencia is Spain's third largest city.  The Old City is typical in that the streets are built in such a way to keep the sun out so its cooler to live in during summer.  A potted history follows: retired Roman legionaries founded Valencia which was located on the banks of Rio Turia.  The Arabs made it a fertile agricultural and thriving industrial centre bringing ceramics, paper, silk and leather to the region and extending the Roman irrigation canals.  Muslims also ruled here before the arrival of the El Cid followed by Christians so, as with many old cities, there is a rich cultural history.

The first thing that struck is that there is no river which is unusual for such a big city and one located near a sea port.  We could see old river walls and bridges and soon discovered that the Rio Turia flooded badly in 1957 and was eventually drained and turned into the amazing Jardines del Turia - a tropical green highway through the city that is enjoyed by Valencianos in the form of cycling, rollerblading, jogging, crazy golf, children's parks, football, rugby, athletics, cafes, etc.  Where they would go without it is a mystery - a case of a really good decision on the part of town planners and citizens.
Birdseye view from Serrano Tower of the former Rio Turia

One of the original bridges across the river & gardens on the far side
All cities have a cathedral so our time here wouldn't be complete without at least one visit there.  The mix of architectural styles here (Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque) reflect the varied cultural history of Valencia.  We saw what is claimed to be the Holy Grail is here from which JC sipped during the Last Supper.  Inside is the Miguelete Bell Tower from which you can get a 360 degree view of the city.

The main entrance at the Cathedral
The centre of all old cities are the markets and Valencia doesn't disappoint: its stunning Mercado Central is where to go to see everyday Spanish life.

Mercado Central
We also visited another former market - Mercado de Colon - now an upmarket shopping mall where we enjoyed a lovely coffee and an orchestral performance in the run up to Christmas.

Mercado de Colon (interior)
Stunning exterior pillar at the Mercado de Colon
The nearby Plaza de la Virgen is ever popular, its main attractions being the fountain and the church of Nuestra Senora de los Desamparados (Our Lady of the Helpless).

Church of Nuestra Senora de los Desamparados
As with all ancient cities there were walls and towers but all that remains in Valencia today are two 14thC towers  - Serrano (just around the corner from our apartment) and Quart.

The impressive Torre Serrano


Mick flying the flag in the crow's nest, Torre Serrano

Without wanting to be known as train spotters, we loved the architecture in the station.

The Modernista waiting room at Estacion del Norte
All Spanish cities have a fiesta or two - is is something that Spain excels in - but sadly we missed most of them as we arrived towards the end of September.  The Valencia region is famed for two in particular: Las Fallas in March and La Tomatina (the latter of which is Spain's messy tomato-throwing orgy in late summer).  The closest we could get to either was the Museo Fallero which presents an excellent visual history of Las Fallas.  This festival celebrates St Joseph on 19 March.  Beforehand, neighbourhoods spend months preparing their life-size, sometimes grotesque and satirical ninots (2012 expenditure was euro 8 million).  On the night of the 18th the ninots are placed around the base of the huge, elaborate papier mache fallas which are promenaded around the region. Next follows the ceremonial burning of the fallas but not before the best ninots are rescued from the flames.  Fireworks and all night partying follow.  Prizes are awarded to the best surviving ninots as well as to the poster designer for each year.  It was a brilliant Museum and we will definitely come back to be part of the madness that is Las Fallas.

An example of a ninot - call the cops
Mick admiring the work of a shoemaker ninot
Former prize winning Las Fallas posters
We also loved the Palau del Marques de dos Aguas which also houses the National Ceramics Museum.  We learned that you can't have it all: the building itself was stunning but the ceramics were a pawtry dozen or so pieces - a poor show for a 'national' collection!

Beautiful marble entrance to Palau del Marques de dos Aguas
After all that sight-seeing there's only one thing to do - enjoy a beer and sangria in one of Valencia's many plazas - cheers!
Enjoying una copa o dos in the Plaza de la Reina
We've a couple more places to visit this week before we move onto Cartagena next weekend but we'll probably wait until our next port of call before updating you.  All the best to our readers and thanks for all your comments - keep 'em coming! xx

1 comment:

  1. Enjoyed all the news and lots of photos,Mick looks well is he growing a beard or just 7oclock shadow.
    lots of love Mumxxx

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