Valencia - around & about the Old City

Hola de Valencia where we're still enjoying a daily average temperature of 17 degrees (in the sun).  However, out of the sun there's a real chill to the air so winter - as Valencia knows it - is coming. This post is about the buildings and landmarks we've visited over the last week or so so sit back and enjoy a virtual tour.

Valencia is Spain's third largest city.  The Old City is typical in that the streets are built in such a way to keep the sun out so its cooler to live in during summer.  A potted history follows: retired Roman legionaries founded Valencia which was located on the banks of Rio Turia.  The Arabs made it a fertile agricultural and thriving industrial centre bringing ceramics, paper, silk and leather to the region and extending the Roman irrigation canals.  Muslims also ruled here before the arrival of the El Cid followed by Christians so, as with many old cities, there is a rich cultural history.

The first thing that struck is that there is no river which is unusual for such a big city and one located near a sea port.  We could see old river walls and bridges and soon discovered that the Rio Turia flooded badly in 1957 and was eventually drained and turned into the amazing Jardines del Turia - a tropical green highway through the city that is enjoyed by Valencianos in the form of cycling, rollerblading, jogging, crazy golf, children's parks, football, rugby, athletics, cafes, etc.  Where they would go without it is a mystery - a case of a really good decision on the part of town planners and citizens.

Birdseye view from Serrano Tower of the former Rio Turia

One of the original bridges across the river & gardens on the far side

All cities have a cathedral so our time here wouldn't be complete without at least one visit there.  The mix of architectural styles here (Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque) reflect the varied cultural history of Valencia.  We saw what is claimed to be the Holy Grail is here from which JC sipped during the Last Supper.  Inside is the Miguelete Bell Tower from which you can get a 360 degree view of the city.

The main entrance at the Cathedral

The centre of all old cities are the markets and Valencia doesn't disappoint: its stunning Mercado Central is where to go to see everyday Spanish life.

Mercado Central

We also visited another former market - Mercado de Colon - now an upmarket shopping mall where we enjoyed a lovely coffee and an orchestral performance in the run up to Christmas.

Mercado de Colon (interior)

Stunning exterior pillar at the Mercado de Colon

The nearby Plaza de la Virgen is ever popular, its main attractions being the fountain and the church of Nuestra Senora de los Desamparados (Our Lady of the Helpless).

Church of Nuestra Senora de los Desamparados

As with all ancient cities there were walls and towers but all that remains in Valencia today are two 14thC towers  - Serrano (just around the corner from our apartment) and Quart.

The impressive Torre Serrano

Mick flying the flag in the crow's nest, Torre Serrano

Without wanting to be known as train spotters, we loved the architecture in the station.

The Modernista waiting room at Estacion del Norte

All Spanish cities have a fiesta or two - is is something that Spain excels in - but sadly we missed most of them as we arrived towards the end of September.  The Valencia region is famed for two in particular: Las Fallas in March and La Tomatina (the latter of which is Spain's messy tomato-throwing orgy in late summer).  The closest we could get to either was the Museo Fallero which presents an excellent visual history of Las Fallas.  This festival celebrates St Joseph on 19 March.  Beforehand, neighbourhoods spend months preparing their life-size, sometimes grotesque and satirical ninots (2012 expenditure was euro 8 million).  On the night of the 18th the ninots are placed around the base of the huge, elaborate papier mache fallas which are promenaded around the region. Next follows the ceremonial burning of the fallas but not before the best ninots are rescued from the flames.  Fireworks and all night partying follow.  Prizes are awarded to the best surviving ninots as well as to the poster designer for each year.  It was a brilliant Museum and we will definitely come back to be part of the madness that is Las Fallas.

An example of a ninot - call the cops

Mick admiring the work of a shoemaker ninot

Former prize winning Las Fallas posters

We also loved the Palau del Marques de dos Aguas which also houses the National Ceramics Museum.  We learned that you can't have it all: the building itself was stunning but the ceramics were a pawtry dozen or so pieces - a poor show for a 'national' collection!

Beautiful marble entrance to Palau del Marques de dos Aguas

After all that sight-seeing there's only one thing to do - enjoy a beer and sangria in one of Valencia's many plazas - cheers!

Enjoying una copa o dos in the Plaza de la Reina

We've a couple more places to visit this week before we move onto Cartagena next weekend but we'll probably wait until our next port of call before updating you.  All the best to our readers and thanks for all your comments - keep 'em coming! xx

Valencia - Arts & Science City

Hello to you from Valencia's Ciudad de las Artes & las Ciencias - a huge, architecturally demanding project occupying a large swathe of the dried riverbed, involving millions of EU money.  Designed by a local architect, Santiago Calatrava, it is aesthetically very appealing but, when planning our time in Valencia, I initially overlooked this as I couldn't help but think 'white elephant'.  But we've time on our hands and when in Rome ...

The Ciudad (city) is so vast that we decided to visit the complex over a few days so this post will span a week or so.  It combines:

• an Arts Centre (with 4 auditoriums, only a tad smaller than Sydney's Opera House);
• the Science Museum;
• a planetarium & IMAX cinema (the Hemisferic); and
• an aquarium (Oceanografic).  

Outlying buildings include an additional performance/concert area (Agora) and the Umbracle, a mini-botanical area which doubles as car park access and a subterranean disco.  

Wednesday 13 November - Science Museum
I have to say this was the last thing on my list of things to do.  I'm not a huge fan of science and its increasing influence in daily life and healthcare and I couldn't help but think 'Dome', London's own white elephant.  But I stuck with it and wasn't too disappointed.  Mick loved it - lots of interactive displays plus educational exhibits - appealing to kids and adults alike.

Science Museum (middle), Hemisferic (left) and Agora performance area (right)

The top floor was about science in sport (and Valencia FC of course!), space exploration, gravity, chromosomes, personality, disease traits, senses, etc.  There were displays about the two Spanish Nobel Laureates (for their work in sciences) and opportunities for Mick to exercise his well-known competitive streak.  For example, a kicking contest: Mick gave it his best footballer shot scoring around 45 kph.  My turn and he suggested I toe-punt it, which I did, and scored 65 kph.  Whilst lining up my next shot, he nudged in and nicked the ball - and scored 96kph - he just can't help himself! Another display was centre of gravity test: I scored 404 -v- Mick's 396 - he wasn't happy so had another couple of goes.  Boys eh?

The second and first floors was about science in the home and work, science of the seas, forests, climate change, etc.  After about half a day there we figured it was about time to go so we walked back through the converted riverbed back to our flat.

The beautiful human DNA double helix

Wednesday 20 November - Aquarium
Saving the best 'til last we visited the Ocenaografic - a vast aquarium complex which is presented in a series of buildings, one to represent a different aspect of the marine world: Mediterranean, Red Sea, Arctic/Antarctic, Dolphinarium, Wetlands and Sharks!  We watched a fun dolphin show and enjoyed seeing a huge Sunfish swimming amongst sharks.  But the star of the day for us was the Beluga whale - there are two here in quite large tanks - but never large enough - the double-edge sword that is conservation.

Beret weather in The Wetlands

The next few images are short videos as the light was insufficent to take piccies with a suppressed flash. We loved this Sunfish:

Mick's shark encounter:

And the peaceful Beluga whale:

We plan to visit the Hemisferic next week where we can watch one of a series of specially recorded films in English.  We may give the Planetarium a miss as we visited one in Pamplona - we'll see ...

At the Arts Centre you can enjoy ballets, concerts, opera and other special performances - sadly nothing that we fancy is on while we're here but I couldn't resist a piccie of the amazing building.

Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia (Arts Centre - Valenciano spelling)

And if that isn't big enough, there's an additional performance centre:

The Agora Performance Centre

Here's a piccie of the elegant Umbracle, the design of which is based on a palm frond:

The Umbracle

So, that sums up our visit to the Science & Arts City.  We hope you've enjoyed the post.  Tune in soon for the next instalment - around and about in Valencia.  Over!

Valencia - beach time!

Hello to you all from warm & sunny Valencia. The temperatures are a very comfortable 18-20 degrees most days which is amazing in mid-November.  The nights are chilly but it's still warmer than the cold dampness of Santiago de Compostela- brrrrrrr!

We've settled into a much slower pace of life as we've been based here for a week or so rather than being on the road.  As such we're sight-seeing at a more comfortable pace.  The apartment is great - very central (located in the Historic City - close to all the major sights, bars and restaurants) so it is ideal for us.  There's also a fantastic market where we buy our food.  Valencia is known as la huerta (market garden) due to its micro climate and resulting abundant produce - fruit (oranges to die for!), veg plus amazing meat and fish. It's also a great place to watch everyday Spanish life - whilst having a coffee of course!     

Mariscos maravillosos (marvellous shellfish)

After a week in Madrid we found ourselves needing the sea - we always feel better with the vast openness of the sea and the refreshing sea breeze.  In fact, we left Madrid at the start of a refuse collectors' strike - all settled now but they had 13 days' accumulation of refuse ... can you imagine that?  Glad we got out when we did!  No sooner had we arrived than we jumped on a tram to the beach (they're quite a way out from the city centre even for walking fans like us).   We weren't disappointed: wide, long, golden sand with the mountains one end of the bay and a marina for yachts and cruise ships plus the commercial port at the other.

Colgate smile in the Med, in shorts, in November - happy days!

The surf was up and a few guys were taking advantage of the waves. 

A little further along the beach we found a washed-up jellyfish.  We saw a few of these when sailing in the French Med - quite ethereal when floating in the sea but stranded ashore it looked like a big blancmange!

What's really nice about the beach is that all kinds of activities are still going on: surfing, kite surfing; kick-boxing; parcour (free running); great to see the beaches being used this late in the year.

So that gives you a taster of the beach life in Valencia.  We go to the beach about 2-3 times per week - just to be down by the sea and wish we could sail our yacht here - we were so close to doing so but c'est la vie ...

We'll update you soon about sightseeing, etc., so tune in soon folks.  Wishing you all well in Blighty.  xx

Brunch in Benidorm

Now, before you say, 'what the hell are you doing?' it's just had to be done.  We decided long ago that we would visit Benidorm - if only for a few hours! - to see how bad it was and if it was anything like the hit TV programme of the same name.  As we approached Benidorm we thought something was odd as our ears suddenly tuned into an English DJ playing hits from the 60s and 70s - S-U-R-R-E-A-L!

We had a short walk to the beaches and were pleasantly surprised by how clean they were (there are two main beaches) and even the high-rise hotels didn't look too imposing.  Overall the whole resort was tidy which is amazing considering the all-year partying the town must experience.

Well, it was as expected - FULL of northerners and sun-dried ex-pats - some on beanos, others on big figure birthday weekends and they were having a great time.  We were definitely in the minority not least as we were fully clothed.  The ladies(?) were massively outnumbered by bald, overweight men - spoiled for choice!

A short walk along the paseo and the Brits were out in force in their finery: cap-sleeve T-shirts, shorts, trainers and all were looking for their next drink.  No problem if mobility is an issue - all needs catered for here - including couples.  This deluxe tandem scoot comes with individual swivel seats.  Seriously, half the people we saw in mobility scooters didn't need them - it is a lifestyle choice rather than negotiate the paseos on foot!

All the excitement led to a bit of an appetite and we gave into the temptation of Benidorm's finest gastronomy - the full English breakfast!  We confess to really looking forward to it as we haven't a 'cookie' since we've been away.  The waitress spoke to us in English and was quite surprised when I ordered it all in Spanish.  We were given a few sideways glances by other customers - for speaking in a foreign tongue (in Spain!) - scary! 

After lunch we decided to walk to the Old Town and the beach beyond the headland and were greeted with lovely views - and a smattering of Spaniards. 

 

As the afternoon wore on we decided to head back to the main drag.  The beach wall was lined with flatulent Brits (yep - we had the full audio version) - bellies and butts galore - and that's just the women!  I tried to get a piccie but it was hard not to be too obvious.  By this time it was about 3pm and the bars were packed.  It turned out that we'd missed (by 1 day) a Benidorm religious festival and fiesta - The Patron Lady of Suffrage - after which Brits get the opportunity of a fancy dress day (and night).  We saw the odd person still in fancy dress 36 hours after the event - not pretty!  Special events include World G&T Record contest.  You get the idea...

So, with all that visual overload we decided it was best to get out while the going was good and before the rival football club fans flexed their muscles.  We overheard a conversation to the effect that there are alot of fights here.  In fact, we saw a guy with a black eye wearing it like a badge of honour - it makes me proud to be British(?)!  Yes, time to beat a path back to the cultural sanctuary that is Valencia.

A quick hello from Valencia...

Hello from sunny Valencia, Spain's third largest city.  Sorry to rub it in to the folks back home but first impressions here are of heat - a balmy 25 degrees - which was just what our bones needed after chilly Santiago de Compostela.  Valencia has a tropical feel to it with lots of palm and orange trees.  For a city it is very green - the old riverbed has been transformed into the lungs of the city - a lush corridor running through the centre of the city, parts of which are a very popular athletics club, a rugby pitch (we watched two local teams today).  At the sea end is the Mediterranean, marina, Americas Cup Village and commercial port as well as the architectural gem, the Ciudad de Ciencia y Arte (Arts & Science City but more of that in a separate post).

The orange tree, another Valencia speciality

Being a city Valencia has lots of flats/apartments, many of which outside the historic centre were built around the 30 years ago and rarely higher then 8 floors - it is quite symmetrical and easy on the eye.  In the midst of all this is the historic centre - beautiful plazas, buildings, a market, cathedral and landmarks - all in all a very attractive city.

Waterfall in Plaza de Ayuntamiento (town hall square)

Thursday 7 November
After checking into our apartment (no problems fortunately!) we wasted no time in hitting the town and sourcing a Valencian speciality, paella.  I used to think it came from Andalucia so I was surprised to learn that one of my favourite dishes originates from here.  Mick isn't a rice fan per se but likes paella.  We chose Paella Valenciana which combines chicken, rabbit, green and white beans; other variations are black rice or the popular vegetarian paella.  I'd also heard of Agua de Valencia which is a beverage that is anything but water - the local take on Bucks Fizz with the added bonus of a shot of gin and vodka - very drinkable!

Saturday 9 November
We spent today familiarising ourselves with Valencia which, at first glance, isn't that easy, even with Mick's map reading prowess!  Eventually we sussed that it is split into the historic city, the marina/beach complex with the converted riverbed running through the centre as well as the Science & Arts City.  We did, though, manage to find an Irish pub in time for today's rugby match.   It was great to meet Bob & Margaret from Cambridge, straight off of a cruise ship and who were also looking to watch the match somewhere - don't forget - Spain is obsessed with football, tennis and motorcyling.  We promise you that this is the first time we've actively sourced an English-speaking pub ... not something we'd normally do but we are talking about England rugby ...

A bit of news about the Motorcyling Grand Prix: at time of writing, Spain's Marc Marquez (recent world champion) is in poll position - you can imagine the party if he wins (which is very likely).  The only guy who could feasibly challenge his lead is fellow Spaniard Jorge Lorenzo, former world champion so Spain will by partying tomorrow night!

That's our brief news.  We'll write more soon as we travel in and around Valencia but we just wanted to touch base.  So, until the next post, hasta pronto y pasatelo bien.

Autumn in Madrid

Hello to you from Madrid, the highest capital city in Europe (in more ways than one probably!)  We were due to spend a month in Madrid and travel to other towns/cities but we had a problem with the apartment(!) and decamped to a nearby hotel from where we can explore much of what Madrid has to offer.  We're not huge city fans so we opted for a week here and move on to Valencia for some sun and r&r tomorrow as, although we're away from home, we're not exactly resting!

You can't come to Madrid and not visit the art galleries.  For me, it was the main event and, for Mick, more an endurance test!  So, with Paseos de Artes (art passes) in hand which give you reduced entry into the 'Golden Triangle' museums/galleries (Museo del Prado, Museo Nacional de Arte Reina Sofia and Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza) we set off on our fine arts pilgrimage. 

Saturday 2 November - Museo del Prado
First up was the Prado - absolutely filled to the gunwales of paintings and sculptures including masterpieces by Goya, El Greco, Titian, Velazquez and, new discoveries for me, Sorolla, Zurbaran and Ribera.  Overall, though, the real master for us was Velazquez.  Our visit really lifted my spirits as I'd not been 100% (OK now though).  :-)) 

The Puerta del Sol is very important to Madrilenos and Spaniards alike.  It is a major meeting point, to include a key site for manifestaciones (protests/demonstrations).  As you may know, the Spaniards are not shy of a protest!  It is also home to the Post Office clock on which all eyes turn for the New Year's Eve countdown and las doce uvas (twelve grapes - 1 grape washed down with wine/bubbles on each strike of midnight to avoid a year of bad luck). Another famous landmark here is the Madrid emblem - the oso (bear) - standing on his hind legs eating from the Madrono tree.

The bear in Puerta del Sol

Sunday 3 November - El Rastro Market, Reina Sofia & La Latina
After a quick visit to El Rastro - a huge, weekly flea market - and a piccie for Mum at Renfe Atocha (Madrid's equivalent of St Pancras station to include a sizeable botanic garden) - we headed off for The Reina Sofia, an 18thC hospital converted into a modern art museum.

The botanical garden at Renfe Atocha station

The Reina Sofia is home to the original of Picasso's infamous Guernica.  For me, this is a visit 6 years overdue - we had booked a trip a couple of weeks before the Icelandic volcano erupted and then life got in the way!  It was worth the wait though - it really is a show stopper.  Also here are works by Dali, Max Ernst and Magritte and another new find for me, Juan Gris. 

By this time we'd built up an appetite and headed for La Latina area, home to numerous tapas bars and restaurants where we sought out a classic Madrileno dish - guiso - a thick soup/stew of red beans and meat - absolutely delicious and washed down with Ribera del Duero (not to be confused with the Galician Ribeiro) - a stunning red, not unlike Rioja from nearby city of Valladolid.  It isn't widely known but watch out for it on wine lists - delicious! We enjoyed the wine so much that, on wandering through the nearby Plaza Mayor we indulged in another glass or two...  it's lovely to see the Spanish out en masse, even at this time of year, arm in arm enjoying their paseo.

Monday 4 November - Buen Retiro, Puerta del Sol & Paseo del Prado
After the cultural overload of the last couple of days we decided to take advantage of the green lungs of the city at Buen Retiro - a 295 acre landscaped park to which Madrilenos decamp to escape the searing summer heat.  Although not exactly searing heat today, Madrid has managed temperatures between 16-20 degrees.

The manicured gardens @ Buen Retiro

We also wandered along the Paseo del Prado - a tree-lined avenue which tracks the three major art museums. En route were several landmarks - fountains, buildings, etc., all too numerous to include here.

Tuesday 5 November - Thyssen, Palacio Real & Cathedral de la Almudena
Skipjack was up with the lark and flew to France to see that "Reward" is prepared for winter.  You may recall we had to ship her to Dunkirk from Frontignan at short notice and this is our first chance to check her winter mooring.  All is well and Skipper will be back tomorrow.   I set off to the Museo Thyssen-/Bornemisza, the last (but by no means least) of the Golden Triangle - and what a treat.  This private collection, acquired over two generations by the Thyssen family - was sold to the Spanish state in 1993.  One can only imagine the price tag on this lot!  Three floors of stunning artwork - Old Masters, studies in Impressionism (lovely), Cubism (challenging), Surrealism (indescribable!), etc.  The collection covers 7 centuries and tops for me were the Impressionists (Sisley, Cezanne, Monet, van Gogh, Renoir, Gaugin, Degas) and a surprise was Edward Munch (of 'Scream' fame) - he has painted some beautiful landscapes.  A few UK artists are featured here: Gainsborough, Hockney, Bacon and a new discovery, Michael Andrews.  I also really loved landscapes by American artist, Charles Burchfield.  A truly enriching experience.

After a quick bite for lunch it was back to the sight-seeing.  Next on the list was the Palacio Real (from the outside) and the Cathedral de la Santa Maria de Almudena - so-called after King Alfonso VI found an image of the Virgin Mary inside the city wall of Madrid.  Almudena stems from the Arabic word for city wall and the name has stuck.  This is where Principe Felipe married Letizia Ortiz and is much-loved by Madrilenos.  Also, a statue of Pope John Paul II celebrates his visit here in 1993 during which he consecrated the Cathedral.

A walk up the Calle Mayor yielded another Madrid gem: the Chocolateria San Gines - a churreria par excellence serving its liquid gold since 1894.  Churros and chocolate is an art form here and has been visited by the famous and well-heeled (myself included!)

Churros & chocolate: perfect after a long day's sight-seeing!

Wednesday 6 November - Gran Via, Buen Retiro & Don Quijote
Mick returned safely but needed to catch up with some much needed sleep as he got on an earlier flight (at 5am) than we'd booked so I caught up with the blog and a bit of reading.  Mick surfaced by noon by which time we'd missed the Maritime Museum but we did fancy a wander down the Grand Via.  It was much like Oxford Street in London and, after a fab menu del dia (many are so dull and always seem to offer hake and a milk pudding) we walked the other side of Buen Retiro as it was such a warm, sunny day.  We enjoyed the many buskers in the park who always add to the feelgood factor of the great parks.  I also had the opportunity to take a lovely snap of the Palacio Cristal (Glass Palace).  

El Palacio Cristal @ Buen Retiro

One more sight on our list and that was the statue at Plaza de Espana to commemorate Cervantes, author of one of Mick's favourite story, Don Quijote.

Mick tilting at windmills

And after a week of walking the streets of Madrid we headed back to the hotel for a much needed beer and, apart from some tapas tonight, that pretty much marks the end of a week in Madrid. We're now experts on the city's excellent Metro system and enjoyed its array of in-carriage entertainment to reflect Madrid's multicultural population - complete with full P.A. systems - they do it in style here!  We also loved the many street entertainers at the Plazas.  We got the hang of the Spanish rules of the road which applies to all aspects of everyday life (commuting, queueing, restaurant service, etc), i.e. first come, first served and take no prisoners - the most hardy of which are the diminutive los mayores (the elderly) but what they lack in height they make up for in number and sheer gusto! 

So that's the latest from us.  We're off to Valencia tomorrow - just in time for one of the busiest weekends in the Valencia calendar - the Motorcycling Grand Prix!  We're not fans so won't be sampling that but it'll be buzzing so watch out for the next instalment of Pintxo & Tapa's Tour de Espana.

A Coruna

Monday 28 October - A Coruna
A short and belated post from A Coruna, a big sea port on the north western tip of Galicia.  We fancied a trip here as it is renowned for excellent seafood (as seen in Rick Stein's TV series, 'Spain') and also that Mick arrived here after an Atlantic crossing from the States 30 years ago with his Mum, Dad and friend Brendan.

A short coach journey from Santiago and we arrived here and headed straight for the beach where we were treated to some really good surf - in fact, we were amazed not to see any surf dudes riding the waves.

We also visited Hercules Tower - a lighthouse with an 18thC shell but a Roman interior, awarded Unesco World Heritage status.  It's hard to imagine the task of actually building this in such a powerful sea, its strength and longevity being testament to some pretty amazing engineering - the tower's structure is not unlike that of honeycomb: the spaces creating strength and flexibility, as well as increased weight-bearing ability.

Hercules Tower (and Hercule Poirot!)

Compass

Windswept under the blue skies of A Coruna

We also took a trip around to the visitor's marina where Mick and his family had moored all those years ago.  It was quite moving for him as he saw a crew stocking up with supplies for, possibly, a similar journey - transatlantic crossings are best made this time of year to follow the trade winds.

So that's a quick round-up of our trip to A Coruna.  It was a nice place but, after we'd seen all we wanted to, we headed back to Santiago - just before the heavens opened!  Our next post will be from Madrid so we're excited about that - so, until then, bye the nooo!