The Owl & Pussycat Diaries: The Colourful Camargue

Bonjour to you all from the enchanting Camargue, famed for white horses, black bulls and pink flamingoes. There is a distinct cultural difference here - a Spanish influence on the architecture, bull-fighting (without killing the bull) and the food. The Camargue is in the Languedoc-Rousillon region which is famed for wine, red rice, lavender, herbs and spices. We are 2 miles from the Mediterranean Sea and the weather is changing. The Med is famed not only for the sun but also a fine selection of winds: the Marin, the Tremontana, the Mistral and Scirocco to name but a few. Today we awoke to an overcast sky - the first time in weeks - with a pink/red cloud - the red sands from African deserts. Anyway, enough of the weather forecast - here's what we've been up to:

Friday 26 July - Avignon to St Gilles
We bid adieu to Avignon - and the Rhone (hurrah!) - and entered the Petit Rhone and, later, the Canal du Rhone a Sete. It was a momentous day as we went through our last lock which dropped a mere 1.8m to sea level. We continued to St Gilles halte, home to (apparently) the worst Capitainerie (Harbour Master) in France but we had no problem with him at all. We also successfully completed our first 'Med mooring' - stern-to or bow-to moorings - tricky as it usually means getting a line through a buoy and using lines or anchor to secure you fore or aft. This is the Med style, i.e. shoe-horn as many boats in as possible! "Splodge" arrived a little later after a very long wait at the lock and we all went ashore for dinner with their friends Stuart and Katrin from London. We all had a jolly time over a lovely meal and several bottles of wine - hicc!

Locks: 1 (217)
Miles: 37 (799)

Saturday 27 July - St Gilles to Aigues Mortes
We had a short cruise along the Canal du Rhone a Sete where we encountered the famous wild white Camargue horses. First Mate has read that you can ride them on the beach - she'll look into that as it is on her bucket list:

The famous Carmargue white horses

And the one that got away!

We also saw a herd of black bulls. Among the tourist attractions here is the opportunity to go ranching - imagine the fun of that! Maybe another time... We moored at Aigues Mortes (literally, dead waters), so-named as it is surrounded by salt marshes from which they still process salt. Aigues-Mortes was the port from which the Holy Crusaders sailed on the 7th & 8th Crusades to Jerusalem after King Louis IX (later to become Saint Louis) built a port here.

First Mate on the ramparts at Aigues-Mortes - pinkish salt marshes in background

Nowadays, Aigues-Mortes is a beautiful walled City as you can see below.

Skipper & First Mate on the ramparts!

Inside the wall is a thriving hub of gastronomy and boutiques - no sign of the economic recession here. The style of architecture is quite Mediterranean and it was lovely to wander around these colourful little streets. And here's how they welcome their newly-weds!

Aigues-Mortes brides are carried over the threshold in style!

Locks: None!!!!
Miles: 17 (816)

Sunday 28 July - Aigues-Mortes
Sunday is market day and off we went to see what was on offer. Lots of fruit, veg and artisan foods including the famous Fougasse - a Brioche-style sweetbread flavoured with orange blossom - yum! Also famed for its nougat - not the confectionery nougat but the real thing - made with honey, nuts and gentle spices - with a real price tag too! In the afternoon we decided to climb the ramparts of the walled City and here's a couple of birds-eye views: