Thursday, 11 July 2013

Bye bye Bourbonnais!

Hello folks from Chalon sur Saone.  Yes, we've  escaped the Borebonnais and are tucked up in a lovely marina just off the Saone.  The last part of the Borebonnais was really picturesque but, what I didn't realise we were missing was the sense of space and expanse of water that we're used to.  So, without further ado, here's a precis of the last few days:
A typical Bourbonnais scene to inspire the budding impressionist
Saturday 6 July - Blanzy to St Julienne sur Dheune
"Reward" and "Splodge" cast off for a busy lock day - 15 ahead of us!  We were looking forward to a change in lock direction (descending as opposed to ascending) but - as the old saying goes, be careful what you wish for!  We are no strangers to descending locks but the layout of this set of locks was such that it was challenging for whichever boat was at the derriere.  Over the next couple of days, "Splodge" and "Reward" struggled with bollards that were not in the ideal position for our boats.  Plus, the locks followed in very short succcession so there was only time to sort the lines in readiness for the next lock but, after a stressful and hot 4-hour trip we moored at the pretty St Julienne sur Dheune - another free halte but no water or power.
First Mate at St Julienne sur Dheune
After a hot day cruising, there's only one thing to do: gin & tonics ashore with Alan & Jackie (Jackie mixes a mean G&T!!!)  After two of those and a mixed platter lunch which we all contributed to, Alan appeared with a hammock which he tied around two perfectly positioned trees!  So, there was really only one thing to do - sleep it off ...
Alan & Jackie ready for an afternoon snooze
There wasn't much going on in St Julienne - just a restaurant/bar but there was a wedding and, low and behold, the bride and groom asked if they could have photos on "Splodge"!  The bride was resplendent in a feathery meringue, glittering in the sun - reckon there's a business opportunity there for Alan...
Bridge & groom aboard "Splodge"
Locks: 15 (175)
Miles: 10 (482)

Sunday 7 & Monday 8 July - St Julienne sur Dheune to St Leger sur Dheune
Another hot balmy (or is it barmy?) day.  11 locks ahead - all descending - and we were pleasantly surprised by perfectly positioned floating bollards (bollards that rise or fall with you rather than those that are fixed on the lockside).  We all faired well so, overall, a good day on the locks.  We passed through one which was playing typically French accordion music - lovely.  We moored at St Leger PdP - a nice quayside with all facilities.  We had a game of boules with Alan & Jackie - Skipper was the dark horse, winning overall but First Mate was no shirk, delivering a couple of devastating strikes to Alan's well-placed boule!

Monday 8 July: We'd heard of a lovely restaurant here so, without further ado, Jackie and I booked a table for lunch.  Check out 'Au P'tit Kir' - a traditional French restuarant run by the lovely Katie - a British woman who's built the business over 10 years.  http://www.auptitkir.fr/.  A fabulous lunch was enjoyed by all and we would recommend it to anyone passing through St Leger.
The fabulous 'Au P'tit Kir', St Leger-sur-Dheune
Locks: 11 (186)
Miles: 8 (490)

Tuesday 9 July - St Leger to Fragnes
Another hot & sultry day and 15 locks ahead for "Reward" and "Splodge".  It turned out to be a long day - 7 hours overall - as we had to wait for the locks on a couple of occasions but, more annoyingly, we got stuck behind a hotel barge who was taking his time loading and unloading cyclists at each of the last four locks.  Alan and Fliss were not amused and went along to ask what was going on - the Barge Skipper came out with some cock & bull about broken locks but we think he had an arrangement with the lock-keeper to easily board his clients and bikes.  He did, though, get a few of First Mate's gesticulations and that infamous 'look' that my nearest and dearest know so well! 

Eventually we arrived at the lovely Fragnes and "Splodge" managed to squeeze into the one remaining spot and we moored alongside a British canal boat - "Crazy Days" owned by Ray and Diane from Cornwall (with Jacks the ship dog).  We spent the evening exchanging yarns with them - former yachties - over some rather nice wine so a good night was had by all.

Locks: 15 (201)
Miles: 15 (505)

Wednesday 10 July - Fragnes to Chalon sur Saone
"Splodge" and "Reward" cast off for a short run to Chalon sur Saone.  Another hot & sultry day here but no complaints. We'd heard of a big supermarket a bit further down the canal and we decided to stock up on supplies and fuel.  Ahead of us was the only lock of the day - the last on the Borebonnais - no. 34b - at 10.3 metres deep.  "Splodge" went ahead of us as we were too long to share the lock with another yacht so off they set for the Saone.  We followed about an hour later and, for us, it was ideal as we had the lock to ourselves so we used the floating bollard amidships for our three lines (stern, admidships and foreline).  Easy, peasy! Here's a video of the lock opening onto the Saone - known as a guillotine lock.  Sorry about the orientation - not that brill at this blog lark:

 
And what a relief it was to see the open expanse of the River Saone - truly a breath of fresh air.  
Slightly ahead of us is a guy waterskiing on the Saone - as you do!
There is still a current running in the Saone - about 3 knots and we whizzed along to the Chalon sur Saone PdP in under 30 minutes.  Alan & Jackie had sorted a mooring for us and were there to take our lines - thanks guys! So, the next part of journey has started.  We'll stay here a couple of nights before moving onto Macon on Friday - just in time for Bastille Day celebrations this weekend. 

Locks: 1 (202)
Miles: 5 (510)

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