Tour de French Mediterranean

Hello to you you from the far reaches of the French Mediterranean.  Yes, we eventually moved on from Frontignan where we enjoyed a couple of weeks unwinding, etc., and have travelled further south.

Sunday 18 August - Frontignan to Cap d'Agde (and Toropiscine)
We couldn't have asked for more perfect conditions for our short hop today: the sea was like blue velvet.  We arrived at Cap d'Agde, a headland with a relatively new marina typical of the Mediterranean with a mere 3,500 berths.  It was huge and a bit of tourist mecca - not really our scene - so one night only for us.  Skipper cruised this coast with his parents many years ago when there were very few safe havens from the notorious Mediterranean winds so it's good to see that so many have been built in the last 20 years or so. 

We tried to book some horse-riding but the stables weren't open at weekends(!)  The French are so different from the Brits: they do not care for commercial gain if they're free time and lifestyle are compromised.  However, we did get to see another Southern French obsession: the Toropiscine - a series of 'games' with a bull in which we were assured there would be no violence or bloodshed.  We couldn't establish, though, exactly what Toropiscine was but, from the translation, we figured it must involve a bull and a swimming pool.  Allors, the bull enters the arena after which spectators willingly climb into the arena - avec bull - the object being to coax him to charge through a paddling pool in the middle of the arena - whilst playing football and other games.  Only in France I hear you say?  You've got it!!

The moment of contact... and as they say in France,  "attention Monsieur participante"

We are guilty of enjoying this ludicrous French pastime - Skipper hasn't laughed at anything so much in ages but it was a once-only experience for us - the locals, though, make it a weekly occurrence - a real spectator sport - nothing like chancing your butt with a bull every weekend!

Miles: 18 (869)

Monday 19 August - Cap d'Agde to Grussain
Weather forecast under our belt we ventured out to sea for another short hop along the coast.  We'd had a good tip from a local yachtsman, George, who said watch wind that comes from the West as gales can arrive in as little as 15 minutes.  We read between the lines of the forecast that another notorious French wind, the Tremontane, might make an appearance but late enough in the day when we would be in harbour.  The westerly wind was on our nose throughout - averaging 10-15mph.  That was fine and the boat loved it - the decks, too, got a brilliant wash from the bow as her nose dipped down into the waves.  All this whilst trying to dodge the omnipresent lobster pots - tricky to see amongs wavelets - and a nightmare should they tangle around your prop.

Skipper's nav, as ever, was spot on and all was well until the last hour when the wind built to a steady 20+mph and, in the last half hour, 25+mph, reaching just under 30mph at one point.  Boy, were we pleased to get into the harbour!  The immortal words of Skipper's Dad, John, came back to haunt us: when you plan a passage get up early and go as the weather usually builds throughout the day.  We got away with it this time but it was a reminder to us both.

Grussain reminded us of Aigues-Mortes - a once desolate swampland with salt plains, now developed for tourism.  The old town is lovely and we ventured to the Castle to get a bird's eye view:

Gruissan town from the castle and chateau

Gruissan marina

Miles: 18 (887)

Wednesday 21 August - Gruissan to Port Leucate

After two nights the Tremontane died down sufficiently and we cast off early for another short hop around the French coast.  A lovely cruise today but because the wind on our nose again we could only get the mainsail up and motorsail to Port Leucate - with its long, golden beaches.  Another typical Mediterranean marina - not quite as vast as Cap d'Agde - only 1800 berths - and not much else so one night only then onwards tomorrow.

The Pyrenees are well within view now - a captivating 30 miles or so.  Piccies don't do their majesty justice, though, so you'll just have to imagine it! 

Miles: 16 (903)

Thursday 22 August - Port Leucate to Gruissan

Yes, you're reading correctly - we're going backwards because yet another Tremontane is due - stronger than the one earlier in the week - and the further down the coast to the border you go - the less protected the marinas are.  That's the problem with sailing in the Med - the mountains and the winds that go with them!  So, as we decided some time ago not to keep the boat in Spain (there's a grey area re taxing those living aboard boats so rather than risk 10% of the boat value - plus other UK assets) we decided to keep the boat in France.  We figured, then, do we really need to sail to the border with the prevailing weather being so risky for a crew of two (a yacht like "Reward" really needs a crew of 4 to sail her in the Mediterranean) or do it by other means of transport?  First Mate had her heart set on it but saw sense after a good chat with Skipper.  He's done this before and our safety comes first - followed by the boat!  So I saw sense and we decided to turn back.  Instead, we'll enjoy the other side of the French Med (which is protected from the Tremontane) until our winter mooring at Frontignan in October.

But don't worry readers: we're still going to Spain - just by different modes of transport which will still be an adventure!

So, we're safely back in Gruissan for a week until the Tremontane blows itself out.  In the meantime, here's a taste of the nightlife - just metres from our mooring!  So, until the next post, roots, rock, reggae!

Miles: 16 (919)

And congratulations to our nephew, Sam, whose done brilliantly in his GCSEs.  Well done Sam - very proud of you - we knew you'd pull it out of the bag - and rock on at Reading Festival!