Tour de Grussain & surrounds

Hello from Frontignan!  We've just spent a week in Grussain because of a rather fierce tremontane - 7s and 8s (gale force) for 48 hours easing down to 5s (still unpleasant) for the remainder of the week.  But on checking the forecast yesterday, there was a window of opportunity today before another arrives tomorrow!  We're glad now that we didn't continue further south as we would've been well and truly stuck there for, probably, another week.  So here's a round up of the last few days:

Friday 23 August - Grussain
Whilst we enjoyed last night's reggae band we thought a week of that type of gig would be too much as we were metres from it so we managed to move to the other side of the marina where we could listen from afar.  However, the nearby restaurant had nightly entertainment of the Eurotrash type.  The entertainers were on a rota and by the end of the week, First Mate was caught singing the 'Monsieur President' song - time to move on!  We also managed a quick visit to a nearby 'caveau' - a wine cellar where you can taste and buy wine direct from the producers.  This is the type of quantity Skipper & First Mate would be interested in!

Cave de St Martin, Grussain - now that's what I call bulk delivery!

Saturday 24 August - Grussain
The tremontane arrived in all its glory.  Our wind speed registered 35-40mph with occasional 42+mph gusts.  The winds were so bad overnight that we moved to the saloon and slept there on the double bed.  The sound of the water around the aft cabin was more than the usual gentle lapping and we were moving around despite Skipper's doubling-up of stern lines on our Med mooring (nose on pontoon and aft tied on to an anchored buoy).  The sound, too, is awful - like howling banshees.  As mentioned before this wind has been said to send people mad!

Skipper lassooing a second stern line onto the buoy from our boarding ladder

Sunday 25 August - Narbonne
With the tremontane in full swing we decided to head inland.  We took public transport, passing numerous vineyards (growing Corbieres, Fitou and Muscat) and olive groves en route to the ancient town of  Narbonne, home to the Roman road 'Via Domitia' built in 120BC to carry goods from Italy to Roman Spain. 

Skipper at the remains of the Via Domitia, Narbonne

The town is also home to the fabulous 13/14th Century Cathedral de Saint-Just et Saint-Pasteur.  In the grounds of the Cathedral is the beautiful Palais des Archeveques (Archbishops Palace), who were real powermongers and had feudal rights over coastal navigation.  The Canal du Robine runs through the centre of Narbonne and connects with the Canal du Midi as well as the Mediterranean and Bay of Biscay which is how it became so prosperous.  Believe it or not, we became quite nostalgic when we saw a lock on the canal - clearly 219 was not enough!

Canal du Robine, Pont de Liberte and Cathedral

The beautiful Canal du Robine

Tuesday 27 August - horseriding

We'd arranged another horse ride at a nearby centre but on arrival we were told that there was no booking in the diary - despite Skipper having a 10 minute chat with someone at the stables on their mobile.  We showed the receptionist our mobile phone log and, sure as eggs, their number was there but was not on their mobile phone.  Not a problem necessarily but we were told we wouldn't be going around the etang as discussed.  What is it with the French horse set??!!  We will try one more time in Le Grau Roi further up the coast before calling it quits. 

We also heard from Alan & Jackie on "Splodge" that they'd arrived safely at Valence for their winter mooring.  We do miss our friends and Frontignan is not the same without them. 

Wednesday 28 August - Spa treat @ Grussain Balneoludique
First Mate was feeling decidedly under par: a combination of being stuck in Grussain marina and its nightly Eurotrash entertainment plus the howling tremontane so she booked a half day treat at a nearby spa - the lovely Balneoludique.  It was just what was needed: a series of warm baths (saline, a bath with the anti-ageing element of wine - hiccough! - and a music pool) plus jaccuzis, steamroom, sauna and hammam and an outdoor pool with water jets that move you around the pool - fantastic fun!  Plus a sunny, outdoor garden and, to top it all, an hour's relaxing massage - fabulous!  Being an ex-massage therapist it was interesting to see the different techniques used and I came out of there feeling revived.  Check the link: http://www.gruissan-mediterranee.com/univers-balneo/balneo-hd

Thursday 29 August - Grussain to Frontignan
Taking full advantage of the lull in the tremontane we got off to an early start (casting off at 0730) for a 6 hour cruise up the coast to Frontignan to get us around the Cap d'Agde headland and into a sheltered bay.  Remember - we still get Mistral here but nowhere near as regularly as the tremontane further south.  We had a fabulous sail (both sails up) in the run up to the headland, after which the wind died down but that was fine after the last week's gales.  We were welcomed back into the marina by Pascale in his trusty reception boat and the Capitainerie were pleased to see us back.  We've yet to see France's most animated barman, Fabienne, but maybe tomorrow.  So, we're pleased to be back and are looking forward to a couple of weeks' sailing further east along the French Mediterranean.

Miles: 33 (952)

So pop pickers, until the next post - over!

Tour de French Mediterranean

Hello to you you from the far reaches of the French Mediterranean.  Yes, we eventually moved on from Frontignan where we enjoyed a couple of weeks unwinding, etc., and have travelled further south.

Sunday 18 August - Frontignan to Cap d'Agde (and Toropiscine)
We couldn't have asked for more perfect conditions for our short hop today: the sea was like blue velvet.  We arrived at Cap d'Agde, a headland with a relatively new marina typical of the Mediterranean with a mere 3,500 berths.  It was huge and a bit of tourist mecca - not really our scene - so one night only for us.  Skipper cruised this coast with his parents many years ago when there were very few safe havens from the notorious Mediterranean winds so it's good to see that so many have been built in the last 20 years or so. 

We tried to book some horse-riding but the stables weren't open at weekends(!)  The French are so different from the Brits: they do not care for commercial gain if they're free time and lifestyle are compromised.  However, we did get to see another Southern French obsession: the Toropiscine - a series of 'games' with a bull in which we were assured there would be no violence or bloodshed.  We couldn't establish, though, exactly what Toropiscine was but, from the translation, we figured it must involve a bull and a swimming pool.  Allors, the bull enters the arena after which spectators willingly climb into the arena - avec bull - the object being to coax him to charge through a paddling pool in the middle of the arena - whilst playing football and other games.  Only in France I hear you say?  You've got it!!

The moment of contact... and as they say in France,  "attention Monsieur participante"

We are guilty of enjoying this ludicrous French pastime - Skipper hasn't laughed at anything so much in ages but it was a once-only experience for us - the locals, though, make it a weekly occurrence - a real spectator sport - nothing like chancing your butt with a bull every weekend!

Miles: 18 (869)

Monday 19 August - Cap d'Agde to Grussain
Weather forecast under our belt we ventured out to sea for another short hop along the coast.  We'd had a good tip from a local yachtsman, George, who said watch wind that comes from the West as gales can arrive in as little as 15 minutes.  We read between the lines of the forecast that another notorious French wind, the Tremontane, might make an appearance but late enough in the day when we would be in harbour.  The westerly wind was on our nose throughout - averaging 10-15mph.  That was fine and the boat loved it - the decks, too, got a brilliant wash from the bow as her nose dipped down into the waves.  All this whilst trying to dodge the omnipresent lobster pots - tricky to see amongs wavelets - and a nightmare should they tangle around your prop.

Skipper's nav, as ever, was spot on and all was well until the last hour when the wind built to a steady 20+mph and, in the last half hour, 25+mph, reaching just under 30mph at one point.  Boy, were we pleased to get into the harbour!  The immortal words of Skipper's Dad, John, came back to haunt us: when you plan a passage get up early and go as the weather usually builds throughout the day.  We got away with it this time but it was a reminder to us both.

Grussain reminded us of Aigues-Mortes - a once desolate swampland with salt plains, now developed for tourism.  The old town is lovely and we ventured to the Castle to get a bird's eye view:

Gruissan town from the castle and chateau

Gruissan marina

Miles: 18 (887)

Wednesday 21 August - Gruissan to Port Leucate

After two nights the Tremontane died down sufficiently and we cast off early for another short hop around the French coast.  A lovely cruise today but because the wind on our nose again we could only get the mainsail up and motorsail to Port Leucate - with its long, golden beaches.  Another typical Mediterranean marina - not quite as vast as Cap d'Agde - only 1800 berths - and not much else so one night only then onwards tomorrow.

The Pyrenees are well within view now - a captivating 30 miles or so.  Piccies don't do their majesty justice, though, so you'll just have to imagine it! 

Miles: 16 (903)

Thursday 22 August - Port Leucate to Gruissan

Yes, you're reading correctly - we're going backwards because yet another Tremontane is due - stronger than the one earlier in the week - and the further down the coast to the border you go - the less protected the marinas are.  That's the problem with sailing in the Med - the mountains and the winds that go with them!  So, as we decided some time ago not to keep the boat in Spain (there's a grey area re taxing those living aboard boats so rather than risk 10% of the boat value - plus other UK assets) we decided to keep the boat in France.  We figured, then, do we really need to sail to the border with the prevailing weather being so risky for a crew of two (a yacht like "Reward" really needs a crew of 4 to sail her in the Mediterranean) or do it by other means of transport?  First Mate had her heart set on it but saw sense after a good chat with Skipper.  He's done this before and our safety comes first - followed by the boat!  So I saw sense and we decided to turn back.  Instead, we'll enjoy the other side of the French Med (which is protected from the Tremontane) until our winter mooring at Frontignan in October.

But don't worry readers: we're still going to Spain - just by different modes of transport which will still be an adventure!

So, we're safely back in Gruissan for a week until the Tremontane blows itself out.  In the meantime, here's a taste of the nightlife - just metres from our mooring!  So, until the next post, roots, rock, reggae!

Miles: 16 (919)

And congratulations to our nephew, Sam, whose done brilliantly in his GCSEs.  Well done Sam - very proud of you - we knew you'd pull it out of the bag - and rock on at Reading Festival!

Final week in Frontignan

Ahoy there me hearties!  The Mistral finally blew itself out after 4 days.  At it's peak it was gusting nearly 40 knots (mph plus a bit).  The strange thing is it was hot and sunny throughout.  We've also had lightning-only storms - no thunder or rain - not seen that before.  Anyway, enough of the weather forecast - here's our latest news:

Saturday 10 August - Frontignan

Skipper spent most of Saturday morning checking the rigging for our sail tomorrow.  We managed a swim in the afternoon but the sea had lost several degrees in temperature from the recent Mistral - it was as cold as Whitstable bay (but not as murky)!    First Mate nipped into Frontignan town and, per chance, arrived at the town's celebration of all things Andalusian.

The Andalucian parade (y un caballero guapo!)

Sunday 11 August - sailing in Frontignan

Skipper had completed most of his engineering and mechanical chores so it was the perfect opportunity for our first sail on "Reward" since her remast and, indeed, the first sail since we bought her.  You may recall we took ownership late last year and, as Skipper had a hernia op at that time, we were unable to take her for a shake-down.  And I'm sure I don't need to remind you long-suffering Brits that the weather, too, was so awful over winter that we didn't get the opportunity to sail at all.

Fortunately, the conditions were perfect today: south-easterly breezes 12 knots and clear blue skies.  In fact, we got up to 4.5 knots under sail - Skipper was in his element.

Skipper helming off Frontignan coast

First Mate is learning fast but still has to get used to the wheel helm on "Reward" having just got used to the tiller steering arrangement on "Reverie" - only a matter of time though.

d

First Mate helming - must sort that muffin top!

It was lovely to stop the engine and cut through the Big Blue.  In fact, "Reward" is such a good sailing boat that she sailed herself.  It helped, too, that Skipper really knows how to trim (set) the sails. 

Monday 12 & Tuesday 13 August - Frontignan & sailing with "Splodge"
We'd promised Alan & Jackie a sail as soon as the boat and the weather were right and at last we were able to take our friends out.  We sailed around the bay to Sete and back and both Alan and Jackie had a go at helming - they both said what a peaceful experience sailing is - all you can hear is the boat gliding elegantly through the water.

Look no hands!

Budge over Alan!  Jackie looking comfortable at the helm

Wednesday 14 August - Frontignan: boat lift & Water Joust
"Reward" was lifted out of the water first thing so that Skipper could check her undersides.  We wanted to antifoul (apply a special protective paint to the undersides) and check the anode (which protects the propeller).  Before you can do that, though, you need to clean off all the grunge that accumulated from the canals - not the best of jobs but strangely satisfying when you've finished and certainly not for those with OCD tendencies!

Before: undersides covered in grey/green gunge...

After: back to original GRP and ready for antifoul

"Reward" resplendent with newly antifouled undersides

We lived aboard while we were on the hard standing (out of water) which means climbing quite a long ladder to board which tests your agility - especially after a couple of Kirs!

It wasn't all work though - we had a great evening watching the crazy French in one of their favourite pastimes (the other being fishing) - the water joust.  Two teams of 8 people approach one another with the aim of toppling the other from his boat.  There are also two musicians aboard - an Arabic-type clarinet player and drummer for added suspense!

The water joust - moment of contact

We were also entertained by a floating jazz band who drifted around the harbour - one of the best we've heard actually.  You can see the jousting in the background of this video.  Can you name that tune? 

And it didn't end there: all this was was rounded off by a great fireworks display but one which did not rival Macon.  The French really do like to party in their unique way and, as ever, the Brits could learn a thing or two!

Thursday 15 August - Frontignan and farewell swim with Splodge
While Skipper was antifouling I took the opportunity to do a supermarket trawl before we move on - yawn!  We had planned a swim in the afternoon but Alan invited us for a buzz out in the bay and swim off of "Splodge".  He also wanted to introduce us to the new crew member - Wilson - an inflatable being that was rescued from sea when Nathan & Gemma visited last week.  We had a great time diving and bombing off the boat whilst trying to convince Wilson to keep still for long enough to float on him but no chance.  In fact, he jumped ship as soon and drifted off across the bay.  Photos to follow soon...

So, a great day but one tinged with sadness: we spent our last evening with Alan & Jacqui with whom we've travelled many miles.  We've had some unforgettable times with them and we'll miss their company.  Safe onwards guys and see you again soon.

So, that's a round-up of our time in Frontignan.  We've really enjoyed the last two weeks or so here and feel very at home.  We needed to relax, enjoy the Med and prepare "Reward" for her sail to the Spanish border which we could achieve in as little as 5 days weather permitting.  So, until the next post I'll say 'bon soiree' et 'a bientot'.  The sooner I get to Spain the better - help Catherine - I'm getting the hang of French!

Birthday celebrations in Frontignan

Ahoy shipmates from Frontignan!  As I write, I'm another year older but none the wiser!  I had a great birthday last Friday.  I awoke to a cuppa in bed and bunting around the cabin.  Jacqui from "Splodge" came by with a lovely beach sarong as a prezzie - thanks guys - it's perfect.  I am counting my blessings: where else would you rather be on your birthday than in the sunny Med, with a light Mistral to keep you cool with good friends and loved ones?  We both miss our families and friends but you can't have it all, eh?

A bit later, Skipper and First Mate ventured into Frontignan for a canalside walk.  We then had lunch at the lovely 'L'Epicurien' restaurant which specialises in traditional Mediterranean and international cuisine.  We had a lovely 3-course meal and some wine - delicious!  The owner has cooked for the Estonian Government for 8 years and won the regional Languedoc Gold Award for cuisine 4 years ago.  We would recommend it to anyone in the area.

The birthday girl with Skipper at the excellent L'Epicurien restaurant

We did intend to go wine-tasting but after our meal and a half-litre carafe each of wine we were replete and we wouldn't have had sufficient time to enjoy the degustation and get to the horse riding centre in good time (and in a sober enough state) for riding so we've taken a raincheck on that.
We checked in at L'Asqueliers riding centre based around a big etang (lake) with sandy shores and backed by woodland and the horses were lovely.

The Camargue horses at L'Asqueliers Riding Centre

Sadly, over an hour later, we hadn't even seen our horses and figured they were out on the previous ride.  Eventually they returned and were about to be turned around with the next lot of riders - 20 of us!  They started to allocate horses with no attempt to check for ability or language.  We can gallop but not with any sense of control and felt there was a high chance our horses would follow any others that did gallop - a dead cert on a beach!  There seemed to be very little interest in the riders, particularly matching horse with rider's ability so, all round, we felt all round that it was best to leave and get a refund.  So close and yet so far... we'll try again in France - failing that we'll do some riding with Spanish horses.

On the way back, though, we did manage to fit in some wine-tasting so not all was lost.  Frontignan is renowned for the muscat grape most commonly used in dessert wines - too sweet for our palate but First Mate tracked down a Muscat Sec - aptly named 'Stony' (for those of you that don't know, my maiden name was Stone).

First Mate with Stony Muscat Sec - cheers!

A bit later we had some drinks ashore with Alan and Jacqui from "Splodge", Alan's son Nathan and his fiancee Gemma who were visiting for a few days.  We'd also met another Brit, John Allan from Newlyn, Cornwall on his Moody Eclipse.  He and his partner have been away for 3 years on and off and sailed around the Biscay, down to Gibraltar and up the Mediterranean coast.  The final leg of the trip is exactly the same route as our trip to date - except John is doing it single-handedly!  He asked for tips and we said definitely lose the mast as that was the biggest problem we faced in the locks and in finding moorings.  Also to get some help for the lock-heavy part of the trip but we reckon he'll pull it off alone.  You meet some intrepid people in boating - bon voyage John! 

So, a fab birthday even though we didn't get to ride the horses in the end.  Another time and place ....

First Mate in new frock - another polkadot number!

The coming week is our last in Frontignan.  I'll write soon with an update.  Until then, hope you're all well and thanks for the calls, the comments and emails - love to hear from you all.  xx

Time out in Frontignan & Palavas

Hello shipmates!  We're loving Frontignan and it would be easy to believe you're in Spain - except for the lingo!  But it isn't all play: we've remasted, cleaned the boat thoroughly from the rigours of the canals plus "Reward" needed some TLC - she's just completed 850 miles on power alone so Skipper has been tending to his beloved engine.  Also, two of our three batteries are struggling so we've replaced them - a case of inheriting slightly old, occasionally-used batteries which now struggle to hold a charge as they're being called upon 24/7.  All part and parcel of maintaining your home - a moving one at that - so not surprising.  Fortunately, Skipper is very practical so can turn his hand to most maintenance and engineering tasks.

Thursday 1 & Friday 2 August - Frontignan
Skipper was on hand to help Alan on "Splodge" as he needed to have the boat 'lifted and held' to inspect his prop.  You may recall that he had a problem in the canals with grass around the prop and although that was cleared it still wasn't quite right.  Skipper had his engineering and surveying hat on and, fortunately, no real damage was done so that was a relief.  We went for a swim in the afternoon - the sea is so warm yet refreshing after a day in the hot sun.   We were invited aboard "Splodge" for a movie evening and we watched one of our all-time favourite films: "Scent of a Woman" starring Al Pacino and that infamous Argentine Tango scene.

Saturday 3 & Sunday 4 August - Frontignan
Saturday was remast day.  We motored around to the boat lift where we moored and 30 minutes later and the brilliant technicians at Frontignan had lifted the mast into place after which Skipper and Alan set about dismantling the A-frame and securing the spreaders and stays (mast supports).

Needless to say it wasn't without event: all of this was done with a thunder & lightning storm - but far enough away not to postpone the remast. We then had to re-attach the foresail which was straightforward.  Our mainsail is contained inside the mast (known as roller-reefed).  We motored back the mooring a very happy crew as the lovely "Reward" once again looks like a yacht!

"Reward" - resplendent with her mast once more

Monday 5 August - Palavas
Today was a free day for us after a busy weekend and we were invited to go to the nearby beach resort of Palavas with "Splodge" where they were meeting Alan's brother, Paul.  It was great to spend the day with friends and away from the boat and associated chores.  Skipper was in need of a haircut and First Mate was in need of a dress for her birthday on Friday!  As ever, we had a great time on "Splodge" - Alan & Jacqui really are the best host and hostess!  We liked this old fishing town and here's a piccie or two:

Palavas quayside harbour

Skipper's photo from cable car, Palavas, of First Mate, Alan & Jackie

Tuesday 6 August - Frontignan
First Mate awoke to what sounded like a distant alarm clock so got up to make tea when it became very clear the alarm was coming from our saloon.  The red light warning system was going off which meant only one thing: the batteries were flat!  We'd had problems through the canals but it seemed the daily running of the engine was sufficient to charge the batteries but on arrival at Frontignan that theory went out the window!  Fortunately the engine battery was new this year and isolated from the two domestic batteries so we can run the engine.  Luckily there's a good chandlery here - imagine if this had happened in the middle of the canal system...  So Skipper purchased two new batteries and set about fitting them.  The rest of the day was spent chilling out and, later on, we dinghied ashore with "Splodge" for drinks.

Wednesday 7 August - Frontignan
An audacious day - it was Alan's birthday and he celebrated it with his brother, Paul.  They and Skipper dinghied to the open sea and explored the local coastline before returning just before the storm set in and in time for a few beers in the local hostelry! 


The thee amigos!

Thursday 8 August - Frontignan
A boat-based day: various small maintenance jobs and we arranged to have the boat pulled out next week to check the undersides for any damage from the canals and to antifoul the undersides in readiness for the sea.  We also need to check the anodes to see that they're doing their job (i.e. protecting the propeller).  The high winds have been with us for 2-3 days and this evening we experienced our first Mistral wind: average of 19 knots gusting to 30 knots and possibly as much as 50 until midnight.  The hatches are batoned down and the lines doubled and sufficient wine consumed to ensure a good night's rest for my birthday tomorrow! 

I'll do a separate post for my birthday celebrations so tune in soon for the next enthralling adventure of Skipjack & Anchovy!

Frontignan: the final frontier

Hello shipmates, sorry there's been no update for a week.  We're in sunny Frontignan on the French Mediterranean, where we'll be until next weekend to remast, relax and prepare for our sail to the Spanish border.  We've been away for just over 3 months now and we're ready for a change from chugging through narrow, internal waterways and experience the open sea once again.  We've travelled 850 miles and traversed 219 locks (yes, there were another couple of locks thrown in for good measure at Port Ariane) - will we ever be free of locks?!

Monday 30 July - Aigues-Mortes to Port Ariane
We cleared the mooring despite strong winds and a less than desirable forecast but Skipper waited for a lull in the wind and we were off.  We had a short run along the Canal du Rhone a Sete - slightly inland in case of the forecasted strong winds - to the sheltered marina of Port Ariane, recommended by Alan & Jacqui from "Splodge" - their preferred winter mooring given it's proximity to Montpellier airport and the Mediterranean.  It reminded us very much of Villamoura Marina in Portugal though not, yet, quite as buzzy.  We saw a flock of flamingos though not close enough to get a good piccie. 

Locks: 1 (218)
Miles: 20 (836)

Tuesday 30th July - Montpellier
We visited the lovely city of Montpellier and had nice petit dejeuner, walked around the park, viewed a Bernard Plossu photography exhibition and generally wandered various parts of the City.  There is a new conceptual part of town known as Antigone which reminded us of the Axe-Majeure near Cergy, with its curved architecture and governmental/administrative buildings given central stage - behind the omnipresent EU flag.  Skipper & First Mate smiled as there was a statue representing that eternal French triangle - 'liberte, egalite, fratenite' - sans head - a rather good metaphor for the EU!

Skipper at the headless statue, Montpellier

Wednesday 31 July - Port Ariane to Frontignan
A straightforward trip through the final section of the Canal du Rhone a Sete today.  We're a bit sad not to see more flamingos but that's nature for you - she has her own timetable.  We managed to escape the scourge of the bumper boats - not as many here as we were expecting but when you see how they moor and generally handle the hire boats the fewer the better!  We eventually sighted the end of the canal and the opening to the Mediterranean - hurrah!

The boat in front is "Reward", approaching exit to the Mediterranean!

"Reward" in the Med - Frontignan coastline in background

"Splodge" happily cruising in the Med with Stuart & Katrin

A short hop across the Med for "Reward" and "Splodge" and we arrived at Frontignan marina which is very well-run.  It can be a bit stressful arriving at new marinas, trying to find your berth, avoid other boats, etc., but no worries today as we were met by a reception boat and shown to the visitor's mooring until we officially booked in and  allocated us a berth in the marina.  Just sufficient time to step ashore with Alan,  Jackie and their guests Stuart & Katrin for celebratory drinks.  Then it was back aboard "Splodge" for a buzz in the bay and a dive off the aft deck - a long-held ambition for First Mate and a lifetime ambition for Alan - it was fabulous fun to dive into the warm, blue, Mediterranean sea after being landlocked for 3 months. 

Bottoms up from the Skippers!

Jackie & Alan basking in the big Blue

It was sadly Stuart & Katrin's last night as guests aboard "Splodge" and they invited us all out for a farewell dinner which was fabulous - thank you both!  They were such a fun couple - we'll miss them....

Locks: 1 (219)
Miles: 15 (851)

I'll write shortly with an update of our time spent at Frontignan so tune in soon shipmates!