Tuesday, 18 June 2013

The Bourbonnais Route to Montargis

Hello fans - Kremmen here from the Starcorp (only Kenny Everett fans will remember that character!)  reporting from the Canal du Loing, the first of 4 canals which together make up the Bourbonnais Route.  A couple of stats for this route: locks - 149; distance: 414km; opened in 1723 and was pretty much manmade. 

Sunday 16 June - Avon to Souppes-sur-Loing
We awoke early to a sunny morning as we'd opted for a longish day to see how we felt about doing, on average, 10 locks pd.  This phase will be more about quantity of locks than distance.  We cast off at 8am and after about an hour reached St Mammes, a barge town and where you turn sharp right into the start of the Canal du Loing.  What struck us first is how narrow the canal became - about 20 feet and the depth below us dropped to 1.5m.  We passed Moret-sur-Loing, a lovely halte fluviale (river stop) where you can moor.  This is a lovely spot where impressionists once gathered to paint the beautiful scenery and, as we exited the first lock we could see why.
Canal du Loing
All the locks today were ascending as we approach higher ground, the rise in each lock being anything from 4 to 20 feet.  Skipper climbed the ladders in these locks as he's more gazelle-like than me but I was aboard taking the lines back and holding steady so not exactly on the poop deck topping up the tan (sadly!)  Most of the locks on this canal were operated manually by the eclusieres but this is, sadly, becoming a sight of the past in these days of automation.  Rather quaintly, the locks are shut for 1 hour over lunch as we are now into less commercial waterways.  We did, though, pass three huge barges which is interesting in such a narrow canal!

After 9 hours cruising we moored up at Souppes-sur-Loing - a quayside in a former industrial town - nothing to write home about but it provided power and water which was all we needed for a good shower onboard - you get to appreciate such luxuries while travelling!

Locks today: 12 (total 61)
Miles today: 25 (total 287)

Monday 17 June - Souppes-sur-Loing to Montargis
Another lovely, sunny morning and we were up with the lark.  We continued along the Canal de Loing and, after 9 locks, turned sharp left into the Canal de Briare.  Here we encountered a new lock phenomena: self-operated locks which are triggered by a magic eye sensor.  To close the lock behind you you need to push a blue rod upwards (making sure you avoid the red rod as that is for emergencies!)   Most of the locks today were of a similar depth until the very last - a deep ascending lock - about 25 feet - which we weren't expecting.  Skipper was not happy about the hike up such a big ladder after a long, hot day but, fortunately, Monsieur was there to drop us a hook for our lines - gracias a Dios!
A notably relived Skipper after the last lock for today!
So, with that under our belt we exited into the lovely town of Montargis which has been likened to Venice with is many bridges and old streets.  We moored up at the quayside and we'll stay a couple of nights to rest and regroup.
Madam Chapeau spotted in Montargis

Lovely Montargis
Here we met Barbara and Lee from Brisbane aboard their home-from-home, "Kingfisher" with whom we shared an aperitif.  They are enjoying their retirement in the French canals and this is their third season. 

Locks today: 12 (total 73)
Miles today: 15 (total 302)

And just a quick note to my brother - "Bon Anniversaire"!!! xxx

1 comment:

  1. Loads of hard work! Love the pics; you both look so well and sun kissed!

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