Bourbonnais: a week in the Loire

Hello to you all from the town of Decize after a week cruising the Bourbonnais canals.  We're pretty much in the middle of France passing through villages without internet access - even via my little Domino gizmo - hence the lateness of this post.  So, without further ado here's what we've been up to:

Sunday 23 June - Chatillon-sur-Loire to Belleville
We said goodbye to Bob & Gill of Joie de Vie and whose brother lives in Tankerton near us(!) and after a couple of hours we arrived at Belleville which was true to its name except for the billowing chimneys from a nearby nuclear power station!  No mention was made of this in the books though so it was a bit of a shock.  Not to worry though - First Mate has her homeopathic remedy kit which covers just about any eventuality - suffice to say we didn't take on water there!  Such a shame as it really was a pretty little village.  The highlights for us were several marsh harriers swooping over the canal and a lovely goose/duck which patrolled the quayside, letting herself be known and generally cadging for food!

Belleville's cause celebre!

Locks: 1 (102)
Miles: 8 (329)

Monday 24 June - Belleville to Menetreol-sous-Sancerre
Now that's more like it - home to my favourite wine!  We arrived mid-afternoon in hot weather and moored on a quayside for 7 boats - we just about alongside Stuart and Carol on "Donjeux" and were delighted to catch up with "Splodge" again.

Alan and Jackie on "Splodge"

We wasted no time in getting ashore to explore wine-tasting opportunities and we happened upon a local 4th generation vintner - Laurent Lepresle - who had a wine-tasting cave and outlet.  He invited us in to taste and we spent about half hour with him talking about his wine, his vineyards and his pride in the family's wine-making heritage.  He has four parcels of land from which he produces two amazing wines: one filtered through chalk - the other filtered through flint.  They were both beautiful so we bought one of each - we'd have bought more but he didn't have a card machine - we'll stock up on the way back though!  That was a highlight for First Mate - far better than wandering around a formal, stuffy wine-tasting house ... what a treat!  We wish Laurent well for his 2012 wine which was being launched later that evening.  Bon chance!

First Mate at Sancerre

Sancerre on the hill above the canal

Locks: 5 (107)
Miles: 15 (344)

Tuesday 25 June - Menetrol-sous-Sancerre to La Chapelle Montilard
On a high after yesterday's mooring and wine discovery, we cast off with "Splodge" and after 4 hours' arrived at the less desirable mooring at La Chapelle Montillard - a shelving quayside mooring alongside a working grain factory!  We've found this is a pattern - one mooring is great - the next is rubbish - nothing like variety!  BUT there was a lovely town nearby - La Charite - to which we all decamped, did a shop and had dinner ashore.  It was hilarious - we'd been recommended a restaurant - "La Poule Noir" - and upon arrival we were told by the waitress that it was full and who promptly closed the door on us!  But there was room inside and outside on the terrace so we figured they took one look at us with our shopping bags and figured we weren't quite good enough to eat at their establishment.  We wouldn't mind but they were offering a €14 menu so not exactly haute cuisine!  Needless to say we found our way to nearest restaurant and had a good laugh at - what I would call a typically French attitude - a reminder that we should never judge a book by its cover!

Locks: 4 (111)
Miles: 10 (354)

Wednesday 26 June - La Chapelle Montilard to Cours-les-Barres
We cast off early on a beautiful sunny day and 4 hours later moored at the lovely Cours-les-Barres - a quayside halte - free mooring, water and electricity.  It is a tiny village with only a boulangerie, tabac and part-time post office but a prettier setting you couldn't ask for.  We were invited aboard "Splodge" for dinner and were treated to a lovely chicken roasted in a cob - a South African steamer/cooker which produces really tender meat - delicious!  We took along our other bottle of Sancerre which was the perfect complement to our meal and some lovely French cakes for dessert - yum!  What a brilliant evening - thanks to our friends Jackie and Alan.

"Reward" at Cours-les-Barres

Locks: 5 (116)
Miles: 15 (369)

Thursday 27 June - Cours-les-Barres to Fleury sur Loire
We cast off on an overcast and chilly morning but which soon gave way to lovely warm sunshine.  We saw and heard a black woodpecker going about his business of drilling holes in trees - lovely!  We had another staircase lock - just two levels this time - followed immediately by an acqueduct which was pretty spectacular but not quite up to the Pont de Briare standard.

"Splodge" entering the staircase lock just ahead of us

We moored at the last spot available at Fleury sur Loire which was great as it was a pretty little halte with a bar on site at which we enjoyed a post-cruise beer.  Sadly, though, First Mate needed a night off from the jollifications as hayfever has struck with a vengeance - not as bad as previous years but my worst day this year.  Can't complain though - I've had a drink most days since we've been away - not like me but when in Rome and all that ... !

Locks: 6 (122)
Miles: 25 (394)

Friday 28 June - Fleury sur Loire to Decize
"Reward" and "Splodge" cast off in light rain - pipped at the post by two Dutch yachts that were so obviously keen to get away first to the locks and moorings further down the line that they left a line on the bollard - some people are so pushy!  Only a short hop today and 3 hours later we arrived at Decize PdP but first we encountered a  new lock phenomena - the pull-chord lock!  Just outside the lock we saw what we thought was a boat lift for dinghys but it turned out the rope hanging down needed to be pulled to operate the lock.  We had been a bit worried about this mooring as our book mentioned spaces for 5 boats but we (and the Dutch) needn't have worried - the PdP is large, like a marina with moorings for 60 boats or so.  All new facilities and a restaurant with a big supermarket and fuel over the road what more could a tired crew need?  We decided to stay for 3 nights and rest, catch up with laundry and other sundry chores plus take in the town of Decize.  We've invited Alan & Jackie from Splodge for paella tonight so looking forward to that - on that note - I'd better get going!

Locks: 3 (125)
Miles: 8 (402)

The coming week should take us to Digoin (not Dijon) famous for pottery so that should be nice and I'll update you on that next week.  Hope you've enjoyed the post and, until the next update, over!

Bourbonnais: ascent to Briare

Hello folks!  We hope your Midsummer Solstice was sunnier than ours - we were in our all-weather gear as it was cold and rainy. 

Friday 21 June - Rogny to Ouzouer-sur-Trezee
As you may recall we weren't looking forward to the ascending part of the staircase locks but we needn't have worried - a friendly VNF chap was there to take our lines and assist us with the 6 ascending locks - phew!  They were pretty straightforward and spaced by 0.5-1.0km (as opposed to consecutive) so we had time to ready our lines for the next lock.  Here's a picture of the original staircase lock which was in operation until 1880 - you can see the steps alongside where a crew member would walk up or down with the line:


Original staircase lock at Rogny-les-Sept-Ecluses

We reached the summit just in time for lunch - and more rain - so we took shelter for an hour or so.  The descending locks were automated so quite straightforward plus we had the locks to ourselves all day which made it easier.  Overall, a pleasant experience!

We moored at a Ouzouer-sur-Trezee halte, a nice quayside mooring with power and water - and free!  We were the first there but it wasn't long before there was a full complement of yachts to adorn the quayside.    Here we saw Gary and Barbara again from demasted yacht "Quattro" as well as Alan and Jackie on "Splodge" (we first met them way back on the Liaison - you can't forget a boat with that name!) so it was good to see them again.

Quayside at Ouzouer-sur-Trezee with "Reward" in second spot

Locks: 12 (total 99)
Miles: 7 (total 311)

Saturday 22 June - Ouzouer-sur-Trezee to Chatillon-sur-Loire
Emergency, paging Mr Mick!  We couldn't start the engine - a first since we've owned "Reward"and we prayed it was just a fuse problem.  He managed to sort of jump-start the engine - not an ideal arrangement but enough to get us to Briare where there was a boatyard and moorings where we planned to stay for a couple of nights or so if necessary.

After an hour's cruising and two locks with "Splodge" we left the Canal de Briare (the oldest canal in France) and turned onto the Canal Lateral a Loire towards Briare but on arrival there was no room at the inn so we continued into the canalised acqueduct which carried us over the River Loire which was magnificent - designed by Eiffel it stands at 662m high - a masterpiece in ornate engineering for 1-way traffic only!

Pont de Canal, Briare, Canal Lateral de Loire

Once over the bridge we motored 5km to Chatillon-sur-Loire halte where there was a boatyard run by a British mechanic/engineer who had the necessary fuses which was great.  You'll be pleased to know that the problem was, indeed, only a fuse - an inbuilt system to protect the starter motor - phew!  To be fair, Skipper was great - as understanding as he could be in the circumstances - but nonetheless worried about his beloved engine!

Sadly we've lost "Splodge" along the way - she's much faster than us though - a twin-engined powerboat but we hope to see her and the crew again - not least as we need to return their coffee mugs!

Locks: 2 (total 101)
Miles:  10 (321)

So, yet another eventful day with the crew of "Reward".  We sadly didn't have the opportunity to look around Briare but we'll do so on the way back. 

That's all for now folks!  Until the next instalment, over!

F&M
xx

Bourbonnais: en route to Briare (2)

Hello there! Today, we moved on from Chatillon-Cotigny where we were made very welcome by other boating folk: a British couple on a lovely refurbed barge 'Carol' - they live in France and holiday in the French canals on their barge.  We also met Tony and Elaine, a lovely South African couple on "Dreamflower" as well as Australian couple Alan and his wife on their demasted yacht "Quattro".  We were enjoying our chats and exchanging tips but Skipper was itching to move on so we cast off mid-morning.

What would be in store for us today, we wondered?  No sooner had we cast off then we arrived at the first lock of the day - and it was manned with an eclusiere bearing boat hooks for our lines - hurrah! - and that set the pattern for today's locks.  This group was smaller - only 12' deep and the whole experience was very pleasant. 

Typical lock on Canal de Briare

Over the last couple of days we reckon we've ascended approx. 225 feet and the scenery is changing (don't think we're suffering with altitude sickness just yet though).  We've seen a water vole going about his business and several majestic Red Kites circling above us and open fields - lovely!

Typical vista along the Canal de Briare

We moored at lunchtime on the canalside opposite a group of artists painting the original 'Sept Ecluses' (now disused) and what a lovely picture that would make.  Here's a snapshot:

Artists painting the now disused Sept Ecluses - you can see the old lock walls in the background

After a very pleasant day's cruising we moored at Rogny-les-Sept-Ecluses PdP - a long quayside mooring with power and water. 

Locks: 6 (total 87)
Miles: 6 (total 308)

The next leg of our journey to Briare involves our first staircase lock - a series of 12 locks very close together: 6 up and 6 down.  We've been told that they're quite straightforward and I think I have to go ashore with a line and walk the boat up with Mick at the helm - a case of 'suck it and see' we think.  So whether we'll do all 12 locks or split them 50:50 we don't know yet. 

So, until the next post - out! 

Bourbonnais: en route to Briare

Hello folks!  We've left the lovely Montargis and are en route to Briare, where the Canal de Briare will take us over the Loire valley via an acqueduct - can't wait for that - a real highlight for us.  We're a couple of days away from that.  After the last two, long, hot days we decided that 12 locks pd is too much for us so we've opted for 6-8 pd.  These locks are more demanding than those we've been in previously.

Wednesday 19 June - Montargis to Chatillon-Cotigny
We left fairly early as there was a backlog behind us so we cast off at 0830 and travelled with another boat through the locks.  We passed a deer that had fallen into the canal and trying desperately to get out - there was nothing we could do for it but we alerted the eclusiere upstream. 

This set of locks is only big enough for 2 boats at most so we were concerned - our boat shape means we need a certain position in the locks so we can get good lines fore and aft to keep us central in the lock - too far forward or astern means our mast ends are at risk from the lock gates and/or to other boats!  We tried to explain this to the VNF chap but as we approach high season we had to share the lock with another boat - we did, though, get front position to give us options so that was good. 

Each of the locks today took us 20-25' up and there were 8 ahead of us so quite an ascent as we approach the Loire valley.  The first two were manned so that wasn't too bad but the rest were automated with only one ladder (there's usually two - one each side) the opposite side of the automatic levers - nightmare!   This meant Skipper had to climb the ladders with our lines and pass them back to me aboard.  Imagine: slimy ladders about 20' in height, two sets of lines in your hands .... at 9am!  It was really stressful - not least with another boat up your kyber with not much room between us.  I was really anxious about this set-up but Skipper is a gazelle and has been up lock ladders more than I've had hot dinners.  It also meant that while Skipper was on the quayside I was at the helm holding fast in challenging conditions but I did well and avoided some otherwise near scrapes. 

After 4 locks like this we were relieved that lunchtime arrived and we moored at the lovely Montbuoy halte.  The other boat arrived shortly afterwards and no doubt decided to hang back so they could have the lock to themselves too - better for all concerned.  As it turned out the final two locks of the day were manned and the eclusieres lowered boat hooks to take our lines - thank God! 

A relieved First Mate in the final lock for the day

Shortly thereafter we arrived at Chatillon-Coligny halte - a free mooring which included power and water.  There was a nice little town nearby for supplies, etc.  Our timing was perfect as, soon after we moored and showered aboard, the heavens opened - literally.  We were in the eye of a storm (forecast) but you never think it'll be as bad as all that but, boy, was it?!!!  Dark skies, high winds (approx. 40 knots) and torrential rain meant we had to double up our lines pronto so Skipper went ashore in bare feet (safer than shoes in these conditions) and was out there for 10 minutes during which time he told me firmly to stay inside.  I felt useless and was terrified he'd slip into the canal but, fortunately he returned safely - and drenched - in fact, wetter than after his shower!  A set of dry clothes were needed and a warm cuppa to restore his spirits!

We went ashore after the rain had stopped and met a British couple who were camping in the site opposite the moorings (in a tent!) who told us that the Mayor had heard of their plight and personally invited them to stay in the council rooms for the night because of two storms - the region was on amber alert!  The second, fortunately, was benign.  I wonder if our kindly Mayors/Councillors would be so considerate ...

Overall, a stressful day and we're looking forward to a better experience tomorrow but you never know what the locks have in store for you until the gates open! 

Locks: 8 (total 81) 
Miles: 15 (total 302)

I'll do a separate post for the next part of the journey to Briare so tune in soon folks!

The Bourbonnais Route to Montargis

Hello fans - Kremmen here from the Starcorp (only Kenny Everett fans will remember that character!)  reporting from the Canal du Loing, the first of 4 canals which together make up the Bourbonnais Route.  A couple of stats for this route: locks - 149; distance: 414km; opened in 1723 and was pretty much manmade. 

Sunday 16 June - Avon to Souppes-sur-Loing
We awoke early to a sunny morning as we'd opted for a longish day to see how we felt about doing, on average, 10 locks pd.  This phase will be more about quantity of locks than distance.  We cast off at 8am and after about an hour reached St Mammes, a barge town and where you turn sharp right into the start of the Canal du Loing.  What struck us first is how narrow the canal became - about 20 feet and the depth below us dropped to 1.5m.  We passed Moret-sur-Loing, a lovely halte fluviale (river stop) where you can moor.  This is a lovely spot where impressionists once gathered to paint the beautiful scenery and, as we exited the first lock we could see why.

Canal du Loing

All the locks today were ascending as we approach higher ground, the rise in each lock being anything from 4 to 20 feet.  Skipper climbed the ladders in these locks as he's more gazelle-like than me but I was aboard taking the lines back and holding steady so not exactly on the poop deck topping up the tan (sadly!)  Most of the locks on this canal were operated manually by the eclusieres but this is, sadly, becoming a sight of the past in these days of automation.  Rather quaintly, the locks are shut for 1 hour over lunch as we are now into less commercial waterways.  We did, though, pass three huge barges which is interesting in such a narrow canal!

After 9 hours cruising we moored up at Souppes-sur-Loing - a quayside in a former industrial town - nothing to write home about but it provided power and water which was all we needed for a good shower onboard - you get to appreciate such luxuries while travelling!

Locks today: 12 (total 61)
Miles today: 25 (total 287)

Monday 17 June - Souppes-sur-Loing to Montargis
Another lovely, sunny morning and we were up with the lark.  We continued along the Canal de Loing and, after 9 locks, turned sharp left into the Canal de Briare.  Here we encountered a new lock phenomena: self-operated locks which are triggered by a magic eye sensor.  To close the lock behind you you need to push a blue rod upwards (making sure you avoid the red rod as that is for emergencies!)   Most of the locks today were of a similar depth until the very last - a deep ascending lock - about 25 feet - which we weren't expecting.  Skipper was not happy about the hike up such a big ladder after a long, hot day but, fortunately, Monsieur was there to drop us a hook for our lines - gracias a Dios!

A notably relived Skipper after the last lock for today!

So, with that under our belt we exited into the lovely town of Montargis which has been likened to Venice with is many bridges and old streets.  We moored up at the quayside and we'll stay a couple of nights to rest and regroup.

Madam Chapeau spotted in Montargis

Lovely Montargis

Here we met Barbara and Lee from Brisbane aboard their home-from-home, "Kingfisher" with whom we shared an aperitif.  They are enjoying their retirement in the French canals and this is their third season. 

Locks today: 12 (total 73)
Miles today: 15 (total 302)

And just a quick note to my brother - "Bon Anniversaire"!!! xxx

The Haute Seine darling!

Hello fans!  We've spent the last few days cruising the Haute Seine - haute translating as the upper crust!  And what an apt translation - this really has been the most picturesque part of our trip so far with increasingly less commercial traffic and miles and miles of woodland dotted with to-die-for houses.  We saw lots of sculling so think of Henley, only bigger and better!

Wednesday 12-Thursday 13 June - Draveil
We've been away from home for 6 weeks now yet it seems we've never lived any other way.  I think it's fair to say we've adapted pretty well to our new lifestyle and, despite its challenges, we're happy to be travelling around, visiting some lovely places and meeting new people in the comfort of our own boat. 

After a 4 hour cruise from Paris Arsenal yesterday, we arrived at the lovely PdP - Port aux Cerises - in Draveil, 25km south of Paris.  It is just off the Haute Seine and has very good facilities with the luxury of a holding pontoon for new arrivals until you're given a mooring.  It is set in a green and leafy leisure park and a town centre about 1km away.  It is also home to two cranes, amazing birds with the most unusal call - it reminded me of the alien in "Predator" - spooky to hear first thing in the morning and last thing at night.

Resident crane at Port aux Cerises, Draveil

We were going to set off on Thursday but, sadly, Katie (of "Stardust" fame) has pulled a muscle in her back and needs to rest before she can go onwards through the locks.  Plus, rain is forecast for much of the day so we thought it best to baton down the hatches and leave on Friday.

Locks: 3 (total 45)
Miles: 15 (total 229)

Friday 14 June - Draveil to Melun
We decided to get a few miles under our belt and started the final leg of the Haute Seine to St Mammes where we join the Canal du Loing - the start of the Bourbonnais route through the Loire and Burgundy regions - can't wait to sample those world-famous wines!

After a full day cruising with "Stardust" they moored their steel boat just before the final lock but the quayside wasn't suitable for our GRP yacht so we continued a little further upstream to Melun, a quayside mooring in a town that was once the Brie capital of France.  Sadly, we saw no trace of its ancestry in terms of fromageries but it was a nice little town.  The mooring was rubbish though: billed as a 'quiet' mooring off the main canal it was actually the main thoroughfare for barges en route to their next lock.  The wash from the barges was as bad as on the Seine (you may recall the pleasures of Port van Trough), so much so that it actually sheared a line off of one of our beloved fender boards.  One upside though: we got a free mooring as the 'capitainerie' didn't turn up!

Locks: 3 (total 48)
Miles: 22 (total 251)

Saturday 15 June - Melun to Avon
After stocking up we returned to the boat and were amazed to see "Stardust" on the quayside!  We'd heard from Ken & Katie last night that they'd developed engine trouble again.  It sounds like their water pump is faulty and they decided to book into nearby Chartrettes PdP (looks nice) and get an engineer to assess/fix the problem.  So we cruised a bit further up the Haute Seine with them and through a lock where they turned off - really sorry to see them go in this way as we've been cruising partners for about two weeks.  Good luck Stardust and see you again sometime, somewhere! 

Au revoir "Stardust"

We ventured another few km upstream and moored at a Port de Pays Fontainebleu in Avon.  Perfect for us: a light current, easily accessible visitors mooring with power, water and showers so that'll do us for the night.  Tomorrow is a long day and the final section of the Haute Seine and circa. 12 locks!  So, a full on Saturday night for us: dinner, DVD and early night!

Locks: 1 (total 49)
Miles: 11 (total 262)

So, that's our update.  Tune in for the next part of the blog: the lock-filled Bourbonnais route - this stretch alone has 149 locks (OMG!!!!) so watch this space!

F&M

Paris with the Lewises

Saturday 8 June
Bonjour from a less sunny Paris.  It's been very humid and muggy and, towards evening, the dark clouds approached which was rotten luck for our friends' arrival.  Fortunately, it was more of an electric storm than a downpour so off we went to Bastille Metro at the far end of the marina and met up at 9pm.  They'd travelled by Eurolines coach from the UK and were groggy after a 7 hour journey so we had a quiet night in with a supper of bread, cheese, olives, cornichons (quickly becoming a firm favourite with Skipper!) and wine.  We had a good catch up and before we knew it 1am had arrived and off we scuttled off to our cabins.

The Lewises & Fosters in Place de Vosges, Marais District

Sunday 9 June
We were happy to be guided by Dave & Roche as they know Paris pretty well.  Skipper and First Mate had already visited La Louvre and the Eiffel Tower on a previous trip so we decided to go to the Musee Carnavalet which provides a unique history of Paris in the impressive, former Hotel de Carnavalet.  Filled to the brim with original paintings, furniture, shop fronts and signage all salvaged from demolition (including the original Chat Noir Cabaret sign - one of Picasso's former haunts), it is a fascinating walk through Parisian history.  We then had a stroll around the Marais district, a trendy area filled with boutiques, eateries and amazing falafel - sadly the queues were too long to tempt us on this occasion. 

Musee Carnavalet: an original art deco fixture from a jeweller's shop, saved from demolition.  Check out the mosaic on the floor ...

We later went inside the Notre Dame - staggeringly beautiful is all I can say.  Dave & Roche have an artistic background so know all about architecture and artwork and they were able to point out certain aspects of the building and stained glass work that brought it to life for us. 

One of the stunning stained glass windows at Notre Dame

We rounded off our day by walking back through the lively Ile St Louis - another trendy district filled with musicians, boutiques and artisan shops - heaven!  First Mate bought a rather stylish trilby hat! (see photo further down).  Dinner was served on board after which David fancied a game of scrabble which, naturally, he won (being extremely competitive) followed very closely by Skipper!

Monday 10 June
Today was dry but a little overcast so we set off on the metro to the Montmartre which is impressive - a series of steps up to an attractive but new(ish) church, the Sacre Coeur.  It was a bit blingy for our taste  -lots of brassy statues but, nonetheless, impressive.

Skipper & The Lewises at Montmartre with Sacre Coeur at the top of picture

Later we went to the Pompidou Centre which was the precursor of Lloyds of London and designed by the same architect.  It was quite controversial in its time and caused divided opinion.  There was a nearby pool filled with Gaudi-esque castings - I can't remember the artist's name but they were vivid and fun.

Madam Chapeau with the Pompidou Centre in background

Also, a very old church in this square which was in disrepair - beautiful in its simplicity and doubled as an exhibition space.  At the time of our visit there was a photography exhibition called 'Ny Terra' by - a stunning collection of b&w photos with vivid colour overlays (perhaps) from a village in Gambia, e.g. seed pods, birds, plants, etc.  It was an amazing technique which didn't look to be digital.  Dave & Roche hadn't seen anything like it and couldn't decide how it was done.

Later, Dave couldn't resist another round of Scrabble and thwarted the opposition with a staggering 263 and, being a modest type of chap, asked me to record this in our blog.  There's nothing worse than a gloat!

Tuesday 11 June
So, that marks the end of our weekend with the Lewises.  We had a great time together and they enjoyed being on the boat in such a central location.  To be fair, Roche is happier on boats than Dave (he's a true land-lubber) but he entered into the spirit of things and savoured a glimpse of an alternative lifestyle.

As ever, the time came to say 'au revoir' and we walked them to the Bastille Metro for their return journey.  After we'd say our goodbyes, we returned to the boat to prepare for Phase 2 of our journey - the cruise through the Bourbonnais route of canals - so, until the next post, over & out!

In-Seine-ity (Pt 2)

Bonjour from a hot & sunny Paris! 

Friday 7 June - Port van Trough to Port de Paris-Arsenal
After a restless night we couldn't wait to set off at 7am.  Skipper was chomping at the bit and the engine was on at 6.45am.  We retrieved the power line and starting casting off and the owner of the barge we moored alongside came out to help us.  Overnight the strength of the current had pushed us firmly onto his boat and it took a lot of throttle, First Mate & Monsieur's elbow grease and on the 4th attempt we got off the mooring and turned our nose into the full current of the Seine.  Three hours later we turned the final bend of the Seine and saw the Eiffel Tower in all its glory.  What an amazing sight that is - especially from your own boat.  I went into overdrive with the camera but Skipper demanded I keep a hand for myself as the wash from all the traffic was quite something.  

No caption needed!

As we drew closer to the Eiffel Tower the tour boats and river buses (bato bus) increased five-fold.  We could see the props turning and the wash from them but you're never sure if they've just moored or are going to pull out so you really need your wits about you as they move out within seconds.  At one point we had 3 tourist boats and a barge behind us - all of which were vying to overtake.  Then a couple of river boats pulled out in front of us!  Skipper took the helm and dropped the keel so we had some stability and we wrestled our way along the madness that is the Seine. 

Then we glimpsed the majesty of the Notre Dame, where there is the first of two islands and a series of small, ornate bridges with one or more arches.  Imagine, then, the wash from the tourist boats, bato buses and the eddy under these bridges - and it's affect on our single engine yacht!  It was like white water rafting against the current.  But this didn't last for long and we saw Port de Paris-Arsenal the other side of the islands and, as we approached, a tourist boat decided to turn 180 degrees in front of us and make his way back up the river - no such thing as indicators on boats! 

The beautiful Notre Dame

We had heard that mooring in Paris-Arsenal was challenging and we were allocated a slot between two motor boats - I couldn't believe how little space for manouvre there was - the term shoe-horned springs to mind!  As we moved towards it, the wind picked up and funnelled down the marina which had the affect of pushing us away from the mooring.  It wasn't easy and after 3 pass-bys our kind neighbours offered to take our port & starboard stern lines and guide us in.

Ken & Katie from "Stardust" came in shortly after us and we helped them onto their mooring - they had similar problems to us so the least we could do was to help them.  We also saw Garth & Catherine from "Venture" who have had a lovely time with their family.

The weather here is amazing - feels like it's in the 30s but with a nice breeze.  The mooring is great with the Bastille Monument at one end of the marina - incredibly central.  Apparently Napolean commissioned the Arsenal as a method of moving gunpowder & armaments through the tunnel (also at end of marina) and along the Canal St Denis (our preferred route into the Arsenal).  Sad to have missed that but we'll do it on the return journey.  The marina is surrounded on one side by lovely gardens in which the Parisians have their lunch, a rest or a meal in the restaurant at the end of the garden.  High walls enclose the entire marina so you're separate from the immediate noise of Paris but, like all cities, the sound is familiar: a concerto of traffic, sirens and claxons which I have to say made me smile but we're glad we don't live in a city! 

Port de Paris Arsenal Marina with the Bastille Monument at the far end

We spent the afternoon doing a few chores in readiness for our friends' arrival tomorrow night - boring but necessary.  So, until the next (Paris sightseeing post), hope you're all well.

F&M

In-Seine-ity!

Bonjour from Port van Gogh, a riverside mooring in the River Seine.  We are 15 miles from Paris centre now and the skyline and sounds are changing as we draw closer to the city.  Here's a brief update of what we've been up to:

Wednesday 5 June - Cergy to Reuil-Malmaison
We left Cergy this morning with Ken & Katie from  "Stardust" and had a lovely cruise in the sun - boy was it hot - but we ain't complaining.  We continued in the River Oise with the current with us but, as soon as we turned into the Seine, we were punching a 3.5 knot tide which is quite something for a single engine boat like ours.  Skipper loves his engine (he has been known to talk to it!) and doesn't want to give it a hard time unless absolutely necessary.  Seriously, though, it's all about ongoing maintenance and tlc so it's less likely to let you down when you need it - and Skipper is a trained diesel mechanic so he knows his engines!

Ken (aka Mr Ken) & Katie on "Stardust"

We passed some lovely towns built up into the hills - Herblay in particular was stunning - a nice leafy suburb of Paris - with a pricetag to match I imagine!  So far, The Seine seemed to be pretty benign.

After 7 hours' cruising - and only one lock - we moored at Reuil-Malmaison halte nautique (a pontoon or mooring with limited facilities) but that was fine as we didn't need power or water.  It was a lovely quiet, leafy spot in a backwater off the Seine - very tranquil.

Thursday 6 June - Reuil-Malmaison to Port van Gogh (aka Port van Trough!)
We left in beautiful conditions - warm and sunny and the water was like a millpond.  We had a 1.5 knot current and after shortly rejoined the Seine.  Plan A was to head for the Canal St Denis but when we arrived at lock number 1 we met a red light (meaning either a barge is in the lock or something's coming from behind us).  However, an hour later we were still waiting patiently and our VHF requests to enter the lock were pretty much ignored.  Then we saw our friends Garth & Catherine on "Venture" enter the lock and we figured we could go in behind him - but the lock-keeper said a firm 'non' by showing us a red light.  Skipper was furious and lost patience, deciding to go for our Plan B, Port van Gogh.

We'd heard from Garth & Catherine that this wasn't a great mooring being in the tideway of the Seine so open to wash from commercial and leisure traffic.  But, worse, the 'facilities' were gross: an 8ft square cabin containing one shower and a hole in the ground for a loo!  Err, which century are we in??? And they want to charge for that!  Well, I was less than keen to go there as you can imagine.  Nonetheless, we arrived and took a mooring alongside a barge and at least we have power so I'm able to blog!  The wash is pretty regular from the passing barges, etc., but the locks close at 7pm so we're hoping to get some sleep tonight.  We'll be off early to beat the commercial traffic so we can safely rejoin the river.  Now I understand people's reservations about navigating the Seine!

But we've only 15 miles to go to Paris-Arsenal marina, slap-bang in the middle of Paris so it'll be worth it - can't wait to see the skyline and Eiffel Tower - from our own boat!  However, I am told there's a ladder in the lock as you go into the marina and, unless there's a bollard or something else, I'll be scrambling up that at some point!

I may be offline for a few days as our friends, David & Rochelle Lewis, are visiting from Whitstable.  Really looking forward to seeing them so, until the next post, hope you're all well and enjoying the blog.

F&M
xx

Loving Cergy!

Hello there from sunny Cergy.  Yes, the sun has got it's hat on, hip-hip-hip-hooray!  And what a difference a bit of sunshine makes.  We're very happy here at Cergy PdP and are staying for a week, moving on this Wednesday.

Port Cergy from canal bridge

Cergy PdP with "Reward" on the back quayside wall

Saturday 1 June
Shopping today as we needed to replenish our wine collection - loving the Cote du Rhone and Bordeaux wines ... Our friends Ken & Katie on "Stardust" arrived and we invited them onboard for a long-overdue glass or two of vino which was fun.  Like us, they're staying 'til Wednesday then moving onto Paris.  The marina here is on par with Brighton in terms of size but not as claustrophobic.  Houses/flats surround the marina but they are a better designed and planned.  There are a few restaurants and bars too, plus the village shops on your doorstep. 

Sunday 2 June
The Cergy region is very green and, today, we crossed the river to the leisure park, Base de Loisirs, which comprises a huge lake surrounded by parkland - about 10km or more in circumference.  All kinds of leisure activities are catered for: dinghy sailing, kayaking, rowing, water-skiing (on cable - no boat), white-water rafting, pedaloes, a lido, the blob jump (where you're catapulted from a seat into the lake - brilliant! - wish it had been open today).  There are also various gym-type weights machines dotted around for the odd bench press or leg press should the desire take you!  The French seem to be much more outward bound than the Brits and were out en masse today - great to see so many people enjoying outdoor activities - the Brits could learn a thing or too - but we all know that!

Monday 3 June
A lazy day today as it was a bit overcast & chilly so we did a few chores: cleaning, fuel stock-up, groceries and that luxury of luxuries - reading!  I started a book in Dover and am only quarter of the way through - Mick reckons I like blogging too much!  We also had some good news: we've reserved a mooring at Paris Arsenal marina, central Paris so we're relieved.  The recent bad weather resulted in a bottleneck - boats just weren't moving - so moorings weren't available.  The Harbour Master hung up on Mick last week - despite his Franglais - but he plucked up the courage to call back again today et voila!  Great news as we'll be centrally located for our friends' visit at the weekend.

Tuesday 4 June - last day in Cergy
A lovely sunny day so we decided to go the Axe-Majeur - a conceptual urban town development.  It looked quite impressive - approached by the red bridge below (a White House building is at the far end of the bridge, above the treeline) and, from the top looks back over the lake.  But as we approved the centre ville it reminded us of the Ministry of Thought ... imposing white buildings with darkened windows and, true to form, administrative offices formed the majority of the development!

The Red Bridge approach to the Axe Majeur conceptual urban town

Looking back over the lake with Paris on the horizon

And a late in the day update: our friends Alan & Carole on 'She's a B' arrived at 4pm today.  Great to see them again as they were due to arrive tomorrow, our departure day.  Naturally we had some catching up to do and were invited onto their sunny aft cockpit for a glass or several of vino collapso!  Sadly, we had to depart as our dinners were ready - ours a beef bourginon (an easy 'low and slow in oven' dish for just this type of scenario!)

So, that's our week in Cergy.  We are fully rested and ready for the next stage of our journey, Paris which is about a third of our journey through France.  Part 2 is the picturesque, central region of France which comprises over 100 locks - many of which are smaller than those we've encountered so far.  Part 3 is the Saone and Rhone which we'll cover very quickly given the current and lack of locks - though the locks are apparently HUGE!  So, until the next time - a bientot!