No longer lock virgins!

Hi di hi campers!  Sorry we've been a bit quiet on the blog - we had no mains power 'til yesterday as we finally escaped Dunquerque into the canals - hurrah!

Tuesday 14 May - Dunquerque to Bourbourg
After saying our goodbyes and topping up with water, we left Dunquerque and entered our first (ascending) lock.  No longer lock virgins we started the process of leaving Dunquerque basin through a bridge and 2 more locks (one ascending - to include one where we had to climb a ladder rapidement! - and our first descent) after which we moored up at the VNF office to purchase our 'vignier' - a licence to cruise the French waterways.  We were expecting a long bureaucratic process from what we'd heard but we were in and out within 15 minutes.

We read that, once out of Dunquerque, the more relaxed route towards Paris is via the Canal de Bourbourg where the small town of Bourbourg offered a quiet mooring - no mod cons - but rather that than navigate the busy, commercial 'La Liaison' (Liaison Dunquerque-L'Escaut) - an arterial waterway comprising several canals and a river - widened to accommodate the commercial barges.  We didn't fancy mooring up in La Liaison as the wash from the barges is considerable - until quite late at night too.

However, we needn't have worried as we didn't pass any boats or barges en route to Bourbourg, including in the locks - a bit of a relief really as we had lots of room to practise with lines arrangements in the different types of locks - no two are the same!  It also struck us that we might be a bit early in the season although all the books say that cruisers are ususally en route through the canals around this time.

The Canal de Bourbourg is quite narrow - about 20 feet wide and in places very shallow.  The landscape is very rural here - real 'Wind in the Willows' country.  For the twitchers among you we saw lots of Crested Grebes, Cormorants, Grey Heron, Moorhens and Ducks.

Our journey today was approx. 6 hours (average 5 knots ph), including 4 locks and several bridges after which we arrived at the small town of Bourbourg.  The first thing that struck us was the peacefulness - the only sound was birdsong - lovely!  Initially, we felt a little like a sitting duck as we were the only boat there but it felt like a safe place to stop for the night.  Next we had to raise the lock keeper.  No reply from VHF so Skipper called from the mobile in his best Franglais and eventually a VNF van arrived and the lock keeper set about opening our first manual lock!

Lock-keeper opening manual lock - Bourbourg

As you can imagine, we were pretty shattered after our first day on the canals.  It was a chilly, rainy day and quite an active one too so we had a tin-chef special dinner, a couple of glasses of vino collapso and put the heating on (yes, we have the luxury of on-board heating - generated via the our diesel - which we needed as there was no power or water on the mooring).  However, it was free mooring - the first night we haven't paid for.  We hit the sack at 9.45pm and it was lights out 'til morning.

Overall, we travelled 20 miles today and we're 4 locks down, 196 to go!

Wednesday 15 May - Bourbourg to Arques
We awoke well-rested and ready for the next leg of our journey.  We've been away for 3 weeks now - that's gone really quickly.  A different VNF chap was on the bridge preparing for the lift and he followed us to the next bridge and lock.  It was really nice to have the same chap accompany us in his trusty VNF van.  Their job is to assist us at each lock or bridge - or, rather, those that aren't automated.  Nice job, eh? 

More twitching: we saw a magnificent Red Kite and lots of Martins which were diving along the river in front of us for much of our journey today.  It struck me that they were a regular sight when I were a small lass - House Martins used to nest in the eaves of our house. 

Once through the lock we entered the River AA - known locally as "L'Aa".  This, again, is a very rural area and we passed lots of pretty cottages along the riverbank. 

A bit further down we arrived at the junction of the dreaded 'Liaison' but we needn't have worried - there was hardly a soul about.  We turned into the industrial town of Watten and after a couple of hours cruising - again averaging 5 knots - we arrived at the Port du Plaissance (marina) at Arques.  It is just off the Liaison and has showers, electricity (hence my blogging!) and water.  It is a pretty, rural little marina - again - very peaceful apart from lots of birdsong. 

Arques Marina - "Reward" just off centre

After lunch on board we walked into town.  The most famous thing here is the glass/crystal factory - manufacturers of Luminarc, Pyrex, Arcoroc, Chef & Sommelier and Cristal d'Arques - all household names in the UK.  We may squeeze in a trip to the factory tomorrow if time permits.

We also visited the disused but wonderfully preserved 19thC double Boat Lift at Fontinettes -  an amazing piece of engineering - Fred Dibner would have been in his element! 

The Boat Lift at Fontinettes

Thursday 16 May - Arques/St Omer
We thought it was time to leave the boat for the day so we walked 3km along the riverbank to St Omer, a lovely town featuring 17th & 18thC architecture plus a 13C Basilica.  Here is the largest Gothic structure outside of Paris - the Notre Dame Cathedral which featured original paintings by Rubens and 16thC Astrological Clock.  We did take piccies but they were a little dark - sadly, not enough light.

We also couldn't visit St Omer without partaking of it's home brew - St Omer beer - and raise a glass to our
old friend Craig of 'Westaway' fame - his boat was always laden with St Omer beer - cheers Craig!

So that's it for now folks.  Tomorrow, we're off down the canals to Bethune, about 20 miles from Arques.  Will update you as soon as I can - over & out.