Semana Santa Malaga style

12 April 2014
A belated hola! to you from a warm and sunny Malaga.  I write to you from my default Malaga cafe - La Canasta - enjoying a long overdue café con leche and light lunch which will be followed by a chilled glass of Manzanilla sherry in the bar next door, currently packed with well-dressed Spaniards enjoying an aperitivo y tapa.  I am here for a few days with Cathy to see the processions which mark Semana Santa (Holy Week/Easter) here in Malaga.  As a Semana Santa virgin I was happy to be in the hands of Cathy, a seasoned aficionada - this year will be her 11th Semana Santa!

What is Semana Santa?
You don't have to be religious to appreciate Semana Santa - there is something for everyone: pomp, splendour, opulence, music, drama, atmosphere, etc.  Of course, Spain is primarily a Catholic country and the processions tell the story of the Easter story.  Other than that, I didn't know anything about Semana Santa or what to expect.  Would it be an upbeat or solemn affair?  Would it pass in silence or with the usual Spanish gusto?  Each town and city celebrates Semana Santa differently.  I knew there would be magnificent thrones carried by lots of men, rocking side to side to bear the enormous weight of the thrones (some weigh in excess of a metric ton) but that's about it.  I've never, though, had a problem with being thrown in at the deep end ... I usually swim! 

In brief, Semana Santa can be summarised in three words: passion, devotion and art.  Sure, the images depict religious scenes but not all the participants and spectators will be practising Catholics - indeed church attendance in Spain is very low.  And, some comment that its opulence must be offensive to those suffering in the face of la crisis (economic crisis in Spain) but we saw no evidence of that except perhaps the Spanish would only have one drink and tapas, then go home, rather than make a day or night of it.  No, they were out in number - young and old - enjoying the occasion because Semana Santa is a huge part of Spanish culture.  And, of course, they're dressed in their finest!

Each procession is the culmination of a year's meticulous planning, creativity, maintenance and artwork on the part of the cofradia (brotherhood) and its helpers.  I can't begin to imagine how many people are involved in bringing one throne to a procession - I suspect 500+.

The Brotherhoods
Throughout Malaga's Semana Santa a series of processions will be made by 16 cofradias (brotherhoods) - not all in one day but usually half a dozen per day.  Some cofradias will do more than one procession during Semana Santa and lovingly design, build, maintain and care for their pasos (floats) and tronos (thrones).  The pasos/tronos are huge platforms which hold each brotherhood's depiction of the Virgin Mary and/or Christ.  The cofradias have their own unique coloured robes for easy identification during Semana Santa.  Some pasos/tronos are so big that they cannot be stored in their home church so, instead, they are stored in special casas - big church-like storage buildings adorned with images of the Virgin Mary and Christ. 

The two big days in the Semana Santa calendar are Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday - when Jesus enters Jerusalem on the Passover) and Jueves Santo (Holy Thursday/Maundy Thursday - when Jesus shared his last supper with his disciples before being arrested and crucified the next day).  This time around I will only experience Palm Sunday, Holy Monday & Holy Tuesday - all daytime processions - because Mick and I are in the process of moving back into our house after being away a year.  On Holy Wednesday Cathy moves onto Cadiz for a very different Semana Santa experience - much smaller and more sombre apparently - yet nonetheless moving.  Processions on Jueves Santo begin at midnight in remembrance of the vigil kept by the Jesus's disciples.  If you like your sleep I recommend you don't stay in a central location on Holy Thursday - the bells and bands will run throughout the night until 7 or 8am!

The Processions

Each procession lasts around 8 hours.  Some allow a change of costaleros or hombres de trono (men that carry the throne) but not all.  This may explain why a procession only moves around 50 metres at a time before taking a rest of 15 minutes or so.  A procession can take an hour to pass and you have to plan your day around this and, of course, there are several processions per day.  You can't go anywhere without bumping into a procession during Semana Santa!  There are crossing points and etiquette: you can only cross once the band and throne have passed.  You'd think it would be chaos but people wait patiently - no pushing or shoving like there'd be in the UK - no drunkenness either - how refreshing!  

Pasos & Tronos

The pasos/tronos are truly works of art.  You won't see anything like it anywhere else except Latin America.  The biggest European Semana Santa is Sevilla which I've yet to visit (Cathy's been more than once) but Malaga is no slouch.  A week after we left Malaga, Cathy emailed me to say she was still overwhelmed by Malaga's Semana Santa.

 

The tronos usually depict each cofradia's unique and subtly different life size Virgin Mary topped with a canopy to protect her from unexpected rain while the pasos (floats - without a canopy) usually feature Christ and one or two other characters, perhaps a Roman soldier, a disciple and often a tree!  I've yet to discover why each cofradia has its own Virgin (e.g. Virgen de la Cabeza, Virgen de las Lagrimas, Virgen de la Esperanza) - perhaps someone can let me know - but they are all different in colour scheme, detail and splendour.  Indeed, should it rain the cofradias have to rush their paso/trono into the nearest church or casa and that's their chance lost for another year.  Of course, when the weather dictates, they then have to move their trono/paso back to their own church/casa should it temporarily be in another church - not with all the pomp and splendour but it will be a formal occasion. 

Trono (left) and paso (right) of Cofradia Amor

But it doesn't stop there.  Each paso/trono is accompanied by a large - often military - band (with full percussion and brass sections) that has its own set of music to play throughout the day.  The music varies between rousing and solemn - but it is always beautiful and very moving.  Cathy and I were moved to tears on more than one occasion.  Listen to this - recorded from our balcony:

The band is followed by a cruz de guia (a guiding cross) and a team of nazarenos (Christ's witnesses) wearing robes, an antifaz (hood) and/or a capirote (conical hat with hood) to hide their identity.  There is no malice at play here - that is the fault of the Ku Klux Klan who stole the capirote and used it for its own twisted purposes.  Young bystanders can't wait to shake a hand with a narazareno and may even The narazenos number in excess of 100 and are forbidden from talking once robed (though you'll see them chatting in the photo below!)  Occasionally you'll see penitentes, robed people bearing their own cross(es) to repent their sins, dependent on their own life story.  They don't wear hoods but are sometimes blindfolded and barefooted.

Nazarenos wearing capirotes at rest during procession

Next is a priest who blesses the trono/paso with incense (you can see him behind the narazenos).  Then you'll see the similarly robed but unhooded capataz who directs the 100+ costaleros (men that actually carry the trono) by voice and bell located at the front of the trono.  I got to recognise the bell ringing pattern (one for right, two for left and 3/4 for up and down) - I loved it, so much so that Cathy wanted to buy me a bell!  You can imagine the scene: a cacophony of bells, bands and clapping - that sense of organised chaos that is Spain and which we love!

The tronos are beautifully decorated with the Virgin Mary for she is revered by Catholics.  She is always centrepiece, dressed and protected by a canopy.  Each trono bears numerous candles encased in long, glass holders (which are kept lit by a member of the cofradia using a long, telescopic pole throughout the day), flowers and cherubs all of which are surrounded by gold or silver poles which support the canopy.  The Virgin Mary wears a manta/palio - a long veil which covers her forehead and runs backwards to the rear of the trono.  The mantas are sumptuous, usually velvet, silk or satin - or a combination of all three - beautifully embellished by hand with real gold thread, jewels and gems - breathtakingly beautiful and priceless.  The manta for our local cofradia (Fusionadas) cost £1.5m in gold thread alone!  Sometimes the appearance of a trono is marked by a saeta - a solemn, flamenco-like serenade sung by a male or female soloist.  All very dramatic. 

Trono showing the magnificent manta

The paso will have Christ as centrepiece usually with other characters and is carried by costaleros like the trono but is never covered with a canopy, perhaps because he's not so elaborately dressed and presented but, still, I'm sure it would be damaged by rain.

A typical paso showing Christ with the crucifix

The streets are embellished by the cofradias' red banners depicting their own Virgin Mary and/or Christ.  Friends of ours likened the processions to opera settings and they were right.  Some cofradias throw rose petals onto their Virgin Mary from the balconies. 

Typical Semana Santa banners adorn many balconies

So, that sets the stage for what is to come.  Next I'll bring you news of Las Rubias (blondes) let loose in Malaga for Semana Santa, particularly some favourite tapas bars and that of our own, local cofradia - Fusionadas and its Virgen Maria Santisima de Lagrimas y Favores (Holy Mary of Tears and Promises/Favours) - of which Antonio Banderas is a member!  Over & out for now!  xx

Back to life, back to reality!

Hello to you all from Blighty!  First things first: apologies for the longer than usual delay in updating you.  It's been a busy time since we left Dunkirk almost two weeks ago.

We managed to cram our worldly goods into our new car and boarded the ferry for Dover.  Its just as well we allowed plenty of time as our friendly French port workers were on strike and had shut Calais, meaning all traffic - including over a hundred articulated lorries - were diverted to Dunkirk.  We joined a 2-3 mile tailback but amazingly we boarded our reserved ferry - not a given as the lorries were trying to jump the queue. 

Our tardis-like VW Passat Estate

We'd heard about the pollution cloud over the UK and saw evidence of it in terms of reduced visibility at sea.  Otherwise the crossing was good but we caught sight of the White Cliffs with only 10 minutes before berthing such was the fog.  On arrival in the UK were still officially homeless as our tenants date to move out was a week away so we spent a couple of nights at one of our homes from home - The Royal Temple Yacht Club, Ramsgate - where we met up with some familiar faces with whom we had a good chat about our trip and RTYC news.

The next day was a chance to catch up with friends and a much needed visit to the hairdresser!  Then onto Mum's with whom we spent a few days catching up, collecting more of our worldly goods and a debrief as Mum's been a great P.A. to us while we've been away.  We're looking forward to taking her to Claridge's for afternoon tea as a special thank you - cheers Mum!

Friday 11 April
We left Mum's early as today is the day we move back into the house after a year and we knew our tenants planned to be out by midday.  We got the go ahead from our agents at 10.30am so, by the time we got back to Kent they had long gone.  We have to say that we were blessed with perfect tenants - they left the house in immaculate condition so we simply had to move back in.  Thanks to Steve and Agnes for looking after our home so well and to our agents - Kite Homes - who sourced us the ideal tenants.  We know how lucky we are as we've heard some horror stories - some from people we met in the canals doing the same as us to help fund the year away.

We set about retrieving our furniture from the garage - all in excellent condition - dry and damp-free (we took care to cover and wrap them well and used silica packets galore to protect them as best we could so we're glad we took the time).  With the bed and sofas in and other essentials we were pretty much done but fancied dinner out as it'd had been a long afternoon.  When we got home my mind then turned to the task of packing for a long weekend in Malaga, departing the next day!  This happened as a result of booking my flights - and our tenants requesting to leave a bit earlier than planned - so with flights booked it was all systems go.

With alarm clocks set for 4.30am the next day we hit the sack on our sofabed pretty early (we realised when unpacking the garage that we'd disposed of our divan(!) so our comfy sofabed came to the rescue of two travel weary bodies.  We figured out we've slept in 25 beds since leaving the UK last April!

You may recall Mick and I met two American women at the Rioja Wine Festival last October and we all hit it off.  Cathy, from California, flies to Spain twice yearly - once for Easter celebrations and the other for a harvest festival in October.  We had loose arrangements to meet in April but Mick and I left Spain a bit earlier than planned.  Cathy and I stayed in touch and she mentioned her trip to Malaga for Semana Santa and I couldn't resist.  I've always wanted to experience Semana Santa (Holy Week) and knew I'd be in good hands with Cathy being a Spain aficionada.  And how could I resist going back to my beloved Malaga ... it was a no brainer even though it was a bit last minute. even by my standards!

So, on that note, I'll bid you Happy Easter and until my next post on Semana Santa Malaga style here's a little taster!



A trono passing our window en route to her home church

Feeling lost, in France...

Friday 28 March
Bonjour de Dunkirk!  We've been in France for a week now and I have to say we are feeling at a little bit of a loss.  We're missing Spain, the heat, the food, the cost of living (half of that in France) - and I'm missing the language and people.  The weather of course doesn't help but there's something more ... a certain je ne c'est pas.  It was great to meet up with Claire, Lol and their menagerie who made us feel very welcome but the north European chill and dampness is a shock to our Mediterranean-ised blood!  Even Dunkirk doesn't feel quite the same this time around - maybe its because it is a line in the sand - the point at which our adventure ends and where we have to address reality.   You're thinking, '...hang on, who are they to complain?' and you're right - so we'll harrumph instead!  

A week in France
Bonjour de Biarritz, the surprisingly quaint coastal town on France's Bay of Biscay.  For some reason we were expecting a Marbella-cum-Newquay type resort but we were pleasantly surprised.  There is big surf and dramatic coastline here, with the Spanish Pyrenees tantalisingly close.  To be fair, as lovely as Biarritz is, there isn't much to do with limited time.  Its all about the beaches, coast and surfing with a few nice restaurants thrown in for good measure.  So here's a few images - the first two are a stone's throw from our balcony:

The surf's up!  Spanish Pyrenees in the hazy distance

A lovely coastal abode, a bit further down the beach

We arrived in beautiful sunshine so we wandered around the coast:

Reminds us of Broadstairs, Kent - in its better days!

Typical Biarritz architecture

We came a cropper a couple of times around the French dejeuner (lunch) - when cafes and restaurants stop serving lunch at anything near 2pm - makes you wonder if they chose the wrong business!  We collected the hire car which was interesting as the office was shut and the 'out of hours' number was unavailable.  Fortunately the guy turned up with our car after about 15 minutes or so - just as well as the next best quote from competitors was double the price - always best to book early!

Agen
We had a good journey from sunny Biarritz and arrived in overcast Agen where we met Mick's cousin, Claire & hubbie Lol.  You wouldn't believe it but we couldn't find the rendezvous - Agen Aqueduct - you can't really miss something like that, can you?  Well, the locals can, apparently!  Despite asking several folk we were none the wiser so we parked at ... a PdP.  You may recall from the canal part of the blog that PdP is an abbreviation for Port de Plaisance, or informal mooring.  We're like moths to a flame!  We smiled when we saw a fleet of Locaboat hire barges (aka bumper boats) - but that's because we're ashore!

The pretty Agen PdP

I hadn't realised that Agen takes you on to the Canal du Midi, which we'd considered cruising through and out onto the Bay of Biscay as a route home.  From here we drove to the nearby Pont du Canal (or aqueduct) which, like that on the Canal de Briare, takes boats over a major river, this time the Garonne.  Agen's pont was built by Eiffel as well but is not quite as ornate - lacking pillars/towers at each end.  It is still beautiful and it took us back to our days in the canals of which the Pont de Canal, Briare was a major highlight.

Riverbank view of Pont de Canal crossing the Garonne

Pont de Canal, Agen close up - compare with pic below

Pont de Canal, Briare

We had a lovely time with Claire & Lol catching up on the news.  We visited at a very important time for them as the municipal elections were taking place at the weekend, the outcome of which is important to them in terms of their plans for a classic car circuit on their land.  For the first time in years there is a viable opposition party to an incumbent Mayor with a 30 year tenure - time to go - hopefully.  Good luck to the new team!  After a lovely home-cooked casserole and several bottles of wine it was time for bed and we retreated to La Cave - a converted store house/cellar which is yet another novel spot for their visitors (you may recall last year we were in the pigeonerie).


Where's the sun gone?!
Since leaving Spain we've lost about 10+ degrees of heat and more sunlight.  We awoke to the sound of rain - not great as we planned to load our stuff that we'd stored at Claire's into the hire car.  The former fruitery has been home to our worldly goods (from the boat) since last September and we'd forgotten the fruitery is big enough to drive into.  But, first, we had to traverse the orchard which went well until ... we hit a quagmire!  There is a spot at the bottom of the hill which had become waterlogged after a very rainy winter and we were well and truly stuck.  Fortunately Claire & Lol being rural landowners have a land rover and tractor so we figured one of those would do the trick.  Lol was there to save the day - what a trooper - cheers Lol! - and in no time at all he'd driven the tractor to meet us, attached the tow lines - to our hire car (ouch if that went wrong!) - and pulled us to terra firma - phew!  With our goods aboard we returned to the house for a warm cuppa.  And that was pretty much the form for the rest of the day as we were rained in, plus Claire & Lol were unwell - a cue to take it easy as we'd been on the road for a while.

All aboard the skylark!

Lol comes to the rescue!

After a few days at Les Calmes, alas it was time to move on and it was recommended that we stop at nearby Cahors, so we said our au revoirs and set off on the next leg of our journey north.

Cahors
The perfect place to stop for a coffee and leg stretch - about an hour or so from Agen and beautiful. Cahors is a medieval town located in the Midi-Pyrenees and capital of the Quercy region.  It straddles the River Lot and its centrepiece is Pont de Valentre, a 14thC fortified bridge that is, apparently, one of France's most photographed sites, and you can see why.  Thanks for the tip Claire & Lol!

The stunning Pont de Valentre, Cahors
Image c/o Tourist Information, Cahors

And here's a more realistic view of weather conditions at the time of our visit. The weir was at full flow with snow and ice melt.  Here too was a lovely little lock which, at this time of year, is inaccessible owing to water levels and flow.

The weir at Pont de Valentre, over River Lot

Chateaudun
Then on to our midway stop of Chateaudun in the picturesque Loire Valley.  Of course, we crossed the Loire at various points during our canal trip - not least via the Pont de Canal de Briare.  We decided upon Chateaudun by simply looking at the map, choosing somewhere midway between Agen and Dunkirk et voila!  We didn't fancy Orleans being a big town but preferred a more rural spot - and you don't get much more rural than Chateaudun.  Apart from a 12thC castle (hence its name) there isn't much here but as we're passing through we figured it didn't matter this time!  It reminded us of parts of Cambridgeshire and Lincolnshire - miles & miles of flat agricultural land with an airbase in the midst of it all.  Still, it was quiet and the hotel was great so no complaints.  We ate at the Buffalo Grill which, whilst winning  no prizes for gastronomy, fitted the bill perfectly - sometimes you need a grilled steak! - and the service was great. 

Thursday 27 March - Chateaudun to Dunkirk
We awoke early to a thick frost and a chilly 3 degrees (sadly not the singers!) which stirred us into action.  We soon warmed up with the car heaters on full blast and had a good journey north towards Paris, around it and further north to Dunkirk.  We passed through the Loiret and Dordogne regions, home to rolling hills which flattened as we drove further north through Picardie, the Somme and Nord-Pas-de-Calais.  We passed huge slag heaps from the once massive coal mining industry in this region - we were moving too fast to get a piccie unfortunately.  But France's largest mining museum is located here - one for the 'to do' list.    http://www.chm-lewarde.com/en/index.html

Further onwards, we started to see familiar place names from the early days of our boat trip: Compiegne, Bethune, Lens, Douai, Cambrai, St Omer, Arques and Bourbourg.  We decided to stop at Bourbourg for lunch and take a walk down memory lane.  Its lovely to recall what we've experienced and achieved together in the last year - unforgettable!  We'll never forget just how wet and vulnerable we felt on this mooring.  No marina security,  no power - just us and Reward - on a village mooring - in the stillness and silence of rural France with the Eberspacher (on board heating) running to dry us out!  The next morning the VNF chap turned up in his trusty van - that was a sight for sore eyes! - to escort us through a series of bridges and locks - and we were on our way ... wondering if we'd missed some vital news, got the date wrong, or were simply the only nutters on the canals!  There wasn't a soul about for a week or so ... and then we met Alan and Carole on She's a Be in Courchelles-sur-Lens - and also glimpsed Splodge for the first time.   

Bourbourg - our first mooring with lock in background

And then onto Dunkirk, a few miles away.  We've booked into a little studio for a few days which is great - well located, clean and comfortable.  Compact and bijou in the words of the great Stephen Fry it is just as well we've become dab hands at being creative with very limited space and cooking facilities - we've learnt that from several of the apartments we've rented.  In fact Reward offers far superior cooking facilities and stowage - boat builders really are masters of design - proof of that is how much we've brought back from Claire's!  As I write we're surrounded by an assortment of bags and boxes - very attractive - well and truly filled to the gunwales! 


Bonjour á Reward!
And then it was time to check on our lovely Reward in the boatyard, where's she's been on the hard standing since last September.  You may recall Skipper flew back to check her over after she'd been transported by road and all was well and, although she was secure, the high winds and generally horrid winter here may have resulted in damage but we're glad to say that all is well.  Its good to see her again ... but maybe not for long.  As I write we're in the process of selling her and so as not to tempt fate I'll say no more! 

Friday 28 March - Dunkirk (and UK!)
Skipper is back in the UK to buy a car and bring her back to transport our stuff back to the UK.  Our tenants move out on 11 April so we'll just about get in before I fly the next day to Malaga for Semana Santa - the grass really doesn't grow under our feet!

So, while Skipjack's away, Anchovy will play and I fancied a decent coffee, heavenly fruit tart and a bit of sightseeing - particularly the beautiful Saint Eloi Belfry, a UNESCO world heritage site and 13thC watch tower, used as such until 1940.  It was once attached to St Eloi Church but a fire in 1558 destroyed the church and the Belfry was separated - officially so since 1782.  She stands at 58m in height with foundations of only 1.70m - the amazing buttresses give it the support it needs. 

St Eloi Belfry with St Eloi church in background

Dunkirk from Belfry - town hall tower and Channel (horizon)

The beautiful St Eloi Church from Belfry

Dunkirk's most famous son is Jean Bart, the privateer who, rarely for a commoner (as opposed to nobility) rose to the rank of Admiral as he was such a successful racketeer.  He is buried in St Eloi church and is commemorated in the central square bearing his name.  The bell tower also rings daily in his memory.

So that's it for now.  Skipper should be back at the weekend with our new(ish) car, after which we plan a couple of days relaxing after an eventful week - in a positive way!  I'll write again soon with a final update. Over & out for now!

¡Hasta la vista España!

20 March - Biarritz
Hello from Biarritz, a lovely coastal town on the French Biscay coast and from where I write my last Spanish blog.  I'll do a separate post about Biarritz and our journey home through France.  For now, though, I'm trying to imagine what I'll do with the time I have spent blogging - a part of daily life over the last year but, moreover, how I'll function without my customary cafe con leche, pan con tomate, pintxos, Ribera, Verdejo, Spanish people and somehow get back into life in the UK - it just seems unthinkable (and unbearable!) 

To help ease the pain I'm reminiscing about the past 6 months in Spain.  You may recall when we left France that we put together a Top 10 of our experiences there so we thought we'd do something similar for Spain.  So here goes, the with the most forgettable at No. 10 (and most unforgettable at No. 1):

10.  Spanish Radio.  We've travelled on a lot of buses and there's often a radio playing so we're a bit of an authority on this.  Sorry guys - your pop music leaves much to be desired, especially the songs that are a fusion of Spanish and Moroccan sounds - Room 101 for you!

9.  Santiago de Compostela - town.   Before we go any further - we don't mean the Cathedral which is really something special - there is a rare, benevolent force at work there.  We also respect that Santiago is hallowed ground for pilgrims and we don't take any of that away from them.  But, other than that, we don't think it has that much to offer apart from some interesting architecture.  The weather is the main bugbear here - it is so damp, cold and dingy for much of the year and it rarely dries.  Damp and mold is a problem here so if you have an allergy to mold (which I do) then you should be aware of that.  We didn't rate the food either - sorry food critics - we don't agree with you.  There are an inordinate amount of beggars - some that use violence - seriously!  So, if you're thinking of a long weekend we'd say don't bother.  Santiago is for pilgrims and other people of faith for which it is unforgettable.

And I know you think I'm biased but they were the only downsides for us during our time in Spain.  And on a brighter note:

8.  The Belen.  It was refreshing to experience a Spanish Christmas and New Year.  Obviously we are in a Catholic country and so the focus is very different.  The Belen is a nativity scene that is on public display and is a much loved part of Spanish Christmas.  Belens are built on show at town halls, churches and some shopping malls.  In some towns and cathedrals there are permanent Belens on display.  There is an Assocation of Belenistas!  Christmas Day (25th) is about the birth of Christ - it is a fairly quiet affair spent with extended family.  No presents are exchanged - that comes on the 12th day of Christmas (6th January), or the Night of Kings who traditionally came bearing gifts to the baby Jesus.  There is a real sense of anticipation which is touching.  Interestingly, there isn't a glitzy house decoration in sight - just the tree, inside. The streets are decorated tastefully by councils so, apart from that, the only house decoration you see is a poster hanging from many balconies of the baby Jesus.  It helps you redefine what Christmas is actually about.

7.  The formidable force that is Las Mayores.  Diminutive in size but huge in their collective impact, Spanish senior citizens are a force of nature and we love them.  They seem to be privy to information that us mere mortals just aren't in on.  We'll never forget seeing them in action at Santiago de Compostela station. We were waiting patiently at the lift for the platform indicator to flag up our departure to Madrid, aware that a couple of others were there before us.  Suddenly a group of 12 or so senior folk were in front of us, fending us off with their maletas (suitcases), filling the lift and they were off.  It was a masterclass in assertiveness - hire them for a corporate workshop and you'd learn a thing or two!

6.5  Las manifestaciónes.  Yes, the Spanish love a strike, rally or march which are an outlet for Spanish disgruntlement.  Rarely a week (at most a fortnight) passes without a manifestación.  Usually fairly ordered gatherings (but not always) they are accompanied by drums, whistles and sometimes a band.  Most are focused on government austerity measures to repair the Spanish economy - known as la crisis - of which you hear talk daily, everywhere and at every level. 

6.  The Paseo.  That most Spanish of pastimes is the Sunday (or bank holiday) paseo.  Dressed smartly, the extended family go out for a walk, usually along a beach, river, park or other central thoroughfare.  The elders are usually arm in arm, then men often in a smart hat or cap.  The abuelos (grandparents) aren't on the periphery though - they play an active part in keeping the younger family in check.  The children are always traditionally dressed - girls in pretty dresses, tights, shoes, quite often with a bow or headband; boys in winter with woolly tights(!), shorts, jumper and smart shoes.  Rarely do you see jeans, trainers, fleeces or anoraks.  Really nice to see.

5.   Fabulous landscape & endless blue skies.  Spain is a vast country with an amazing geography.  We'll never forget lush northern Spain; the mountain ranges; the vast, rolling hills and plains of Castilla-Mancha and Extremadura; the seas, rivers and oceans; the vineyards; the orange groves; Buen Retiro park; and all under the endless Spanish blue sky.  Is it that we're that much closer to the equator and the effect of the full spectrum of light?  Whatever it is that creates those huge, beautiful, azure skies which give us light-starved Brits that rare feel good factor, we'll miss it - big time!

4.  Cathedrals & architecture.  Spain is awash with stunning architecture, so much so that you almost take it for granted.  Every town and city has church(es), cathedral(s) and at least one other stunning landmark. We'll never forget Segovia's aqueduct; the Cathedrals at Santiago, Salamanca, Malaga and Zaragoza; the Plazas Mayor at Salamanca, Caceres and Pamplona; the Mezquita at Cordoba; the Alcazar at Malaga (which we think is better than the hallowed - and packed! - Alhambra); the bull rings; Roman bridges at Zaragoza, Cordoba and Puente la Reina; the castles at Segovia and Olite; the narrow streets of San Sebastian, Pamplona and Cadiz - the list is endless. 

3.  Fiestas/Ferias.  Sadly we didn't get to see too many of these because we arrived in Spain a bit later than planned but those we did see, we'll never forget: the Rioja Wine Festival - where we met our American friends Cathy & Janet; the children's bull run in Pamplona; and I'm about to experience my first Semana Santa (Holy Week, or Easter) in Malaga - with Cathy - OMG!!! - is Malaga ready for us?!  I've decided that I want to visit as many Spanish festivals as I can while it still has them - health & safety may have something to say about rocket men, towers of fire, etc!

2.  Spanish food, beer & wine.  Pintxos, tapas, Estrella Galicia, el aperitivo,  great wines and sherry.   Spain should be proud of its food and wine.  From the humble olive to the finest cuisine, Spain does it very well.   And always based on simple, quality, natural ingredients.  Many food critics think that one of the best places to eat in the world is San Sebastian; we think Pamplona is biting at its heels.  And don't underestimate Galicia and its growing place on the gastronomic map.  We'll never forget Caceres and its Jamón Ibérico Bellota; Cordoba's roasted lamb; Cuenca's venison; San Sebastian's pintxos; La Mancha's sopa de ajo (garlic soup); Valencia's oranges; Andalucia's pan con tomate; the national dessert that is flan (creme caramel); the fabulous coffee; Ribera del Duero; Albarinho; Ribeiro; Manzanilla; Pedro Ximenez; Verdejo; Rioja; Bellota liqueur - the list is equally endless.

and no surprise as to what's straight in at No. 1 and totally unforgettable:

1.  The Spanish.  We are touched by how open and warm the Spanish are.  It should come as no surprise to me - I've known it all along - but it never ceases to amaze me just how kind, helpful and welcoming the Spanish are.  More so in the south but not exclusively.  We met some lovely people in Asturias and Bilbao too.  Perhaps its the role of the extended family and, dare I say, religion?  There is trust and sincerity - an open-heartedness - and its unforgettable.   Whatever it is, it creates a considerate and respectful society - wake up Britain!

We are lucky, too, to have met some great people on our travels.  From those through whom we've rented apartments (Isabel in Pamplona; Juan & Yolanda in Valencia; Inma in Malaga; Martin & David in Estepona; Fran in Jerez; Eva in Cadiz).  Then there's the friends we've made along the way (Cathy & Janet in Logroño; Maribel & Colmar, Manolo, Vonnie & Alec in Estepona; Rafa, Paco & Marie Carmen in Cáceres). 

So, that's it folks - tragically - my last post from Spain!  We hope you've enjoyed our adventures with us and enjoy our journey home through France.  I can tell you as I write that its been eventful already!  So catch up soon for more looney tunes from Pintxo & Tapa!

San Sebastian Revisited - the pintxo trail

Monday 17 March
Hola to you all from stylish San Sebastian, the stunning coastal city of the Basque Country.  We loved it so much when we were here last year that we thought it would be a perfect place to end our Spanish adventure (boo-hoo!) in style.  And as you've probably gathered from the blog, good food is definitely one of our favourite pastimes so the gastronomic capital of Spain beckoned once more!

We were up with the lark for the 0800 train from Madrid which took us through a couple of towns we planned to visit but decided against as we were running short on time.  It was a 5-hour journey and covered approximately 325 miles, calling at Segovia, Valladolid (which was once a contender for Spain's capital city), then through rural Burgos (on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route) and would be a very scenic section to walk with its rolling green hills, blue skies and Alpine style lodges.

The hills are alive ...

The dramatic landscape in Burgos

The architecture becomes unmistakably Basque the further north east you go - stone built and quite Alpine in appearance. The road and street signs change to Spanish and Basque (which I can't begin to get my head around in terms of pronunciation - much use of the letters k, x, z and l).  The roots of the Basque language are not known but it is unique - not based on any language that we speak today.  It was almost lost under Franco but it is being taught in school now which helps maintain cultural identity in an increasingly homogenised world.

It was a lovely sunny day so after checking in to our hotel it was time for a beach walk, this time along San Sebastian's other beach and the surfer's haven Playa de Gros which is around the headland from the much-loved Playa de las Conchas.  Both are considered to be among the best of European city beaches.  A short walk away is the harbour for Skipper who can never be too far away from the Briny.  For dinner we fancied pintxos so we headed into the parte vieja (old part). 

Pintxo -v- Tapa
You may be wondering what the difference is between pintxos (pronounced pinchos) and tapas so here's what I've discovered.  Pintxos (pronounced pinchos) are always served north of Madrid - you don't find them in southern Spain.  So-called because they were originally served on a piece of bread with a cocktail stick through them (from the Spanish verb 'pinchar' - to pierce) to keep them together.  As you know, pintxos have evolved into an art form - especially here in San Sebastian - and so you don't always see the cocktail stick but the name has remained.  You'll also get pintxos in Salamanca.

Tapas were traditionally served on top of a glass to keep the flies out in southern Spain so were called tapas (from the verb 'tapar' to cover/put a lid on).  You see tapas from Madrid southwards and they were traditionally free but increasingly less so. 

Without doubt the San Sebastian pintxos reign supreme - really elegantly constructed (yes, constructed is the word) bite-size delights.  They can be meat, veggies, tortilla or seafood (or a combination); they can be hot or cold but always beautifully presented.  The art of eating pintxos/tapas is to have one or two with a pintxo size glass of wine or beer and move on to the next bar.  More often than not they're eaten standing up, informally, rather than while seated.  Its the Spanish way and we love it.  Even coffee bars here offer an assortment of pintxos - its part of everyday life here. 

We had a list of places to visit - compiled from my indispensable Lonely Planet guide and our American friend Cathy - the pintxo queen!  Bar Goiz-Argi was first up which is renowned for its gambas a la plancha which were delicious!  Also a brochetta de cerdo (pork kebab marinated in something delicious) plus Albarino wine - divine!

Pintxo & Tapa @ Bar Goiz-Argi

We tried to get into Borda Berri but it was closed so onto Bar Martinez where we had mussels topped with cheese and breadcrumbs; bacalao (salted cod); and a veggie terrine and drinks; and then onto La Mejillonera for more mejillones en vinagre (mussels in vinegarette) and they're signature dishes of patatas bravas (potatoes in a spicy tomato sauce) and calamares (octopus rings) - heaven!  So with full bellies and contented hearts we waddled back to the hotel.

Spoiled for choice at Bar Martinez!

Tuesday 18 March
Sadly it was an overcast and drizzly day - that's San Sebastian for you - being on the Bay of Biscay and surrounded by the Pyrenees it is anything but predictable!  Some say that's part of its charm and it didn't stop us walking along Playa de las Conchas.  Believe it or not some hardy souls were swimming - in costumes - not body suits!  We had a bit of shopping to do as well before heading off for lunch at seafood restaurant Alberto for their menu del dia which was nice but not what I'd call particularly memorable.  We loved the old style dining room - it reminded me of some City of London establishments I've spent too much time in!

And after a bit more shopping and packing it was time to head into the parte vieja once more for some more pintxos, this time at the highly acclaimed Astelana.  The bar was laden with some beautiful offerings but the the local way is to check the blackboard for the house specials.  Tonight we fancied costilla barbacoa (bbq ribs) which were 'melt in the mouth' perfect; brochetta de cerdo served with an apple sauce which was divine; from the counter we chose a mushroom filo parcel; a jamon and fried quail's egg on a slice of crunchy bread and a crab tartlet topped with a prawn - heaven!  We then moved onto Bar Haizai for a quick drink and were introduced to Verdejo, a lovely white wine from Valladolid (the same region as our favourite red, Ribera del Duero, is harvested).  We recommend you try both these wines - Ribera rivals the mighty Rioja but we think better, certainly smoother, while Verdejo is much like a good white Rioja.  I think I missed my calling in life!

Pintxos @ Astelana

And with trousers pinching (from the pintxos) we strolled back to the hotel for our last night in Spain! Sadly, tomorrow takes us across the border by coach to Biarritz, also a Basque region.  I write with a heavy heart as the inevitable unfolds:  the end of an unforgettable year and the start of our journey back to reality.  But I promise you it won't be dull, as ever in the adventures of Pintxo & Tapa!


Whilst in France, we'll visit Mick's cousin, Claire, and her hubbie Lol (Laurence) in Agen who, you may recall, kindly stored our worldly goods from the boat while we travelled around Spain.  It'll be great to see them again and catch up with their news.  Then onwards up to Dunkirk where we join the boat which will be great after 6 months.   And here's how the oldest backpackers in town travelled around Spain on train, coach and automobile.

Pintxo & Tapa with our trusty trollies & rucksacks

So that's it for now.  Tune in soon for our Spanish Top 10 as well as a short dispatch from Biarritz and France - over! 

Cuenca - a cliffhanger!

Saturday 15 March
Hola de Cuenca, or should I say the old part of Cuenca, a beautiful medieval village on a hilltop between two gorges which separate the Rios Júcar and Huécar.  Set in the vast Castilla-La Mancha region just a couple of hours from Madrid it is, like Segovia, another world.  Cuenca is also a UNESCO world heritage site because of its dramatic casa colgadas (hanging houses).

From the bus station it is about a 30 minute walk - uphill! - so we took a loop line bus to the Mirador (viewing point) for vistas of this spectacular valley - and that's before you spot the casas colgadas.  Not many people live in the old town but enough to warrant a regular bus service up the hill from the new town below.  I can't imagine what a winter would be like up there... not for the feint hearted! We spent quite some time at the Mirador and the ridge marvelling at the big country:

The Grand Canyon?

The ultimate Big Country shot!

 

This rock formation reminded me of E.T.!

It was a beautiful, dry and hot day - 25+ degrees - so we took the slightly shaded gorge-side path until we reached Puente de San Pablo, an iron bridge footbridge over the gorge for closer views of the casas colgadas.

Path down from Mirador to Casas Colgadas

The casas were built in the 14thC and share some features with later British properties of the 1800s - internal and external timber beams, etc, which in some ways put me in mind of Dickens' Ye Olde Curiorisity Shoppe - but then I've always had a furtive imagination!

Casas Colgadas - slightly left of centre

And after a long walk it was time for nourishment at the fabulous El Secreto - a ravine-side restaurant which, itself, slightly overhangs the cliffs.  Cuenca - like most of Castilla - loves its roasted meats - and we'd worked up an appetite for the house speciality which is venison.  Mick chose the venison burgers - no bun here! - just three patés served with tasty crushed, garlic potatoes; I had the venison fillet in a red berry juice which was 'melt in the mouth' delicious!  We had a nice green salad with it and in no time the plates were clean!  We'd recommend the ever popular El Secreto to anyone who likes delicious, quality food with friendly service - ticks all our boxes!

The busy front of house @ El Secreto

And after a relaxed lunch it was time to waddle off to the bus station - about a 20 minute walk - downhill!  Our bus journey home was entertaining - the driver played an '80s music compilation which, after the dross which is Spanish pop radio, was a breath of fresh air and the soundtrack to my adolescence - I had a great trip down memory lane!

So, that sums up our day trip to Cuenca which we'd highly recommend - and so close to Madrid.  So, until the next post which will be from San Sebastian - ¡hasta pronto!

Magical Segovia

Friday 14 March
No sooner had we unpacked in Madrid than we were back on a bus to Segovia - an hour's drive but a world apart from the metropolis that is the capital city. 

Segovia is yet another UNESCO world heritage site in Spain - Wikipedia states there being 38 in the Iberian peninsula - we've visited 9 on this trip - it would've been 12 but for site closures and changed travel plans).  Alas - another time!

A few factoids ...
Legend has it that Segovia was founded by Hercules or the son of Noah.  Its two main claims to fame are the towering Roman aqueduct set within a modern city and its Disney-like Alcázar - on which Walt Disney styled his Sleeping Beauty castle.  And all of this set within the rolling hills of the Castilla region and its Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range = stunning!  A bit of royal history is that Isabel (who with Ferdinand are commonly referred to as the Catholic Kings) was proclaimed Queen here in 1474. 

Back to the 21stC and a short walk from the city centre the Cathedral becomes clear.  Don't worry - I'm not going to take you on a tour of yet another Cathedral(!) - but it does cut quite a figure.

The stunning Cathedral, Segovia

 A short walk from here and the ancient city walls appear which date back to Roman times. 

Fortified walls with snowcapped Sierra Guadarrama in distance

And then the Alcázar comes into full focus - and what a beauty!  It was built and extended in the 13th and 14th centuries and was razed to the ground by fire in 1862.  This newer Alcázar is considered to be an over-reconstruction when compared to the original.  We didn't go inside - as tempting as the write up was - as we had bought our return tickets and always prefer to be outside wherever possible!

Segovia's Alcázar - certainly no sleeping beauty!

A short walk down the hill from here is the delightful - and interesting - Iglesia de Vera Cruz (the Church of the True Cross), so named as it once housed a piece of the Crucifix (now in a nearby town and only viewed during Semana Santa (Holy Week, Easter).  Built by the Knights Templar in the 13thC it is considered to be one of the best preserved 12-sided churches in Europe.  Inside is a 2-storey chamber where the knights took their rites in secrecy and where they guarded the sacred relic.  

A wannabe Knights Templar!

We then went for a walk along the River Eresma which runs alongside the tranquil Monasterio del Parral whose monks chant a Gregorian mass at noon on Sundays - sadly we missed that beautiful sound.  

The calming waters leaving the monastery

And after all that walking - you know what's coming! - it was time for lunch at Casa Duque - top choice in the Lonely Planet.  Segovianos love their pig products - especially roasted pork.  Mick opted for butter beans with diced pork and chorizo while I chose a selection of tapas - white prawns in garlic sauce; a tasty mixed salad in a glass; and crab croquettes - all delicious!

A short waddle from here was the awesome aqueduct - an 894m engineering masterpiece first constructed in 1AD.  No mortar was used at all to hold the 20,000 granite blocks together.  And not just one level - but two!  Boasting 163 arches it reaches 28m at its highest point.  It was part of a network of underground canal and aqueduct that channelled water from the mountains more than 15km away.  It is breathtaking in its design, beauty and scale.

Perfect engineering!

And we didn't realise until we saw this photo at the shadow the aqueduct throws across the road - like a huge pedestrian crossing - tricky to negotiate at certain times of the day!

Aqueduct & Sierra Guadarrama in distance

And that wraps up our time here in Segovia.  We really loved it here and would recommend a visit if you're in Madrid - it is no distance at all and really is an uplifting sight.  So, over & out until our next post from another UNESCO site, Cuenca.